Drivetrain Reground Cam
Reground Cam
I am going to have my cam reground. I was wanting to see if I could get some suggestions on what specs I should get the cam set at. Does anyone know the specs on the schrick cam? I know that it's a 264/272 but any other info would be great.
Here are some specs on the Ultrik cam, Hope this helps.
Intake: Duration 264, Lift 9.5mm, overlap 0.5, peak timing 114, open at 18, close at 66.
Exhaust: Duration 272, Lift 9.0mm, overlap 0.65, peak timing 114, open at 70, close at 22.
http://outmotoring.com/mini_cooper_s...cam_shaft.html
Johan
Intake: Duration 264, Lift 9.5mm, overlap 0.5, peak timing 114, open at 18, close at 66.
Exhaust: Duration 272, Lift 9.0mm, overlap 0.65, peak timing 114, open at 70, close at 22.
http://outmotoring.com/mini_cooper_s...cam_shaft.html
Johan
Originally Posted by Hubert
Knowing the duration and lift of a cam only tells you half the story. It's the cam profile that determines the actual performance (lift vs. degree plot), and I doubt Schrick will give you that 

I think you'll find you need to take a cam that you want yours modeled after to the shop. They'll make a master from that and then can regrind cams for you all day long. Shouldn't cost more than $50 a cam but you need to check the lifters and see how much you can reduce the base circle. Also most cams are case hardened which is only a surface hardening and if you grind through it the cams will not last very long.
Originally Posted by gt5816v
I think you'll find you need to take a cam that you want yours modeled after to the shop. They'll make a master from that and then can regrind cams for you all day long. Shouldn't cost more than $50 a cam but you need to check the lifters and see how much you can reduce the base circle. Also most cams are case hardened which is only a surface hardening and if you grind through it the cams will not last very long.

This is an old racer trick. Next week, we'll discuss acid porting, so tune in!
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Anyone have a performance cam laying around that i can borrow? I doubt it but worth a try right? I would be willing to put down a fair down payment and compensate them for there time.
Most of the "billet" cams on the market are cast iron and chill hardened, induction hardened or case hardened, which are all surface hardening treatments. I'm not aware of any non exotic OEMs using steel billet cams. I'm not a metallurgist so that's about the extent of my knowledge. But I have had tons of cams reground and seen many times what happens when you breach the surface hardening. Just be aware, that's all I'm saying
Originally Posted by kwkshift
Most, if not all cams made these days are billet steel, so they are very strong. Also, if you are having your stock cam reground, you will probably need lash caps to compensate for the lost cam material.
This is an old racer trick. Next week, we'll discuss acid porting, so tune in!

This is an old racer trick. Next week, we'll discuss acid porting, so tune in!

the oem cam is not cast, it is machined from solid. if you regrind you need to check hardness of the lobes before any grinding, you will have to have the lobes built up to achieve the bigger lift. then semi ground, then case hardened, and finally finish ground. unless you are going to sell these, you will find that 450.00
for a cam is not bad.
for a cam is not bad.
Billit just means that it started as a larger bar...
and was machined down to size. It has nothing to do with the hardening treatment that is done.
forging the metal before hand densifies the metal, and may make it so that surface hardening isn't needed. Depends on the metal and the use....
Matt
forging the metal before hand densifies the metal, and may make it so that surface hardening isn't needed. Depends on the metal and the use....
Matt
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