I was supposed to go on the Dyno on Wed. but they had to cancel so today it was.
I was figuring that stock, 168H.P. [at the crank, new engine] and a 17.5% driveline loss [29.5 H.P,, so call it 30] would result in about 138 H.P. at the wheels in stock trim.

I have a 2005 Mini S, 165K miles with a recent, [1500 miles ago] supercharger service, plugs, wires, all new sensors, with a Madness Motorworks CAI with the open back panel, a 15% pulley and Borla "Aggressive" exhaust. [Not that loud, sounds just right to me].

The first run was the best but initially I just about sh*t as it was displaying 139.9 H.P. and 150 Ft.Lbs. [the first graph] Quite a bit lower than what I was expecting from reading the results of others.
Then the operator explained that they use a "Mainline Dynolog Chassis Dyno" which reads at least 20% lower than the typical Dynojet which many shops use.
He ran the numbers using the "Dynojet Correction" of 23.7 [est.] and that result was 163.8 H.P. and 173 Ft.Lbs, much more in line with what I was expecting and more like what the seat of my pants was telling me. I especially liked the torque figure as for scooting around my local country roads, that's the "seat of the pants" feel that we know and love.

So all in all, a 25H.P. gain from stock, again, estimated].
It was running pretty rich around 12 after starting out at 14, so leaning it out a little could result in a slight gain. He also mentioned the there seemed to be a bit of a delay in the boost and I was considering a "Detroit Tuned" Bypass valve anyway, so that might be the next thing.

I also have 380cc injectors on the bench, but I was thinking about getting a "Tune" from "Adrianci", Then back on the dyno, then the injectors if Adrianci would do a "mini-tune" afterward to account for the injectors. But the byPass Valve will be the first/next thing.

Without further adieu, the results are below;


The original "non-adjusted" runs. They actually did 4 pulls, 3 in a row with the first being the best, then a half-hour cool down and a fourth pull which was close to the first run.




The "correction for Dynojet" chart.

So that's it for now. I welcome your comments. I good with it considering 165,000 miles.

robj

P.S. I paid $100 for 4 pulls. Is that about right?

 

Dyno is more for comparing only your own car when you do a tune/modifications (before/after). Every run is different (weather conditions etc) and also comparing dyno's is apples to pears. Also when dynoing, peak figures are very tempting but the driveability is more important.

In your case its good to see that the butt dyno expectations were met. Shooting vids of dyno runs is always fun, did you manage to capture some?

 

Yep, Got video of all 4 runs. I can't quite figure out how to post a video. Suggestions/hints?

rob

 

Youtube Or any other video hoster website.

 

ND, you fail to realize what a reta*d I am. That means nothing to me.I did the "go advanced-manage attachments", Added the vid from my Mac and nothing.
I think I need something like step one, turn on computer...
Maybe a PM would save me some embarrassment, not that I care. Ha!
Or, never mind...
rob

 

This might help you out

 

Try ziptying the bpv shut, made my car build boost SOOO much easier and gave me an extra 1lb..no adverse effects other than slightly higher iat's but 7-15 degrees but how fast the boost comes on and the extra 1lb more than makes up for the little extra heat.

 

So there's no way to d/l a video like I do with photos?
[I'm a much better mechanic than computer tech- and my kids have got married and moved out so my tech support is gone....]
rob

 

You could probably make a youtube account and hit the upload button and its pretty easy. It's not much harder than creating an account on this forum and uploading pics to post.

If you want, you could email them to me and i'll do it.

 

did you log timing corrections? One spark correction is 10+ HP on a dyno, same with heat soak from back to back pulls

 

If you do use YouTube, you can just copy the link and add it to your post. Only the link will show up in the preview, but the thumbnail video will show up once you actually submit the post. No need for anything special like using the YouTube link button that never seemed to work anyway.

 

As this was the first time I've ever had any car on a Dyno, I'm not sure what the "timing corrections" are. What I got is what's on the p/o. I know the 1st pull was the best. They did 2 add'l then let it sit for a half hour with a fan on it and did a 4th pull which was very close to the first pull.
Can you educate me a little on what you're referring to?

Thanks,
rob

 

as IAT rises the engine will pull ignition timing back, reducing power quite a bit. MIssfires will also cause the timing to pull back

it will look like this,notice how 1st cylinder pulled timing way back

https://datazap.me/u/mrblah/aug-9th-....77&tmax=82.00

I had adrian tune my car, worth every penny

 

Thanks for that, I see exactly what you're talking about and it makes perfect sense. Explains why the first and last runs we both the best, [the last run after a cool down]

Another thought, isn't this what happens in the real world as well, say at the track or autocross, [or even very spirited street driving fo more that a few minutes?

I was and have been contemplating a tune with him. I bought a new bypass valve I want to install, and my computer skills equate to todays 10 y.o. so I'll have to arrange some assistance there.

Thanks for the info.
rob

 

CHeck to see that your new bypass shuts all the way, some of them are off a bit

Real world has significant airflow over intercooler unlike on a dyno. I do get heat soak at autocross and mountains and run methanol to control temp it really makes a difference

 

This was the third run. You can sort of hear the guy say it's getting hot. They did a 20-25 minute cool down then a fourth run which was almost identical to the first [best] The shop does a lot of rear wheel drive drift and race cars hence the configuration of the dyno. They did move the fan to the front. The tech guy was really helpful and spent 20-25 minutes explaining what I was seeing.

On the second run there was a little "puff" of black. That was the only time I saw that and it was running pretty rich.

This was the second run.


rob
p.s. well dang, look at me with "skills". I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks!
Thanks for the help!

 

next time I'm bringing a leaf blower and a manifold and i'm pumping air into the intercooler !

 

They have a big fan but the dyno is set pretty close to the wall which is kinda dumb to me, but like I said their focus is mostly RWD. They did move the fan to the front, but at and angle due to lack of space. I would think it should be directly in front for obvious reasons.

I ordered the bypass from Detroit Tuned and I think they're supposed to be set up better than stock, but I will check.

rob

 

Did the operator keeping starting the dyno before he went full throttle?

Your torque curve looks like a turbo. Looks like the curve on a big turbo vw I used to have.

 

No he didn't, but he pointed that out. He suggested it may be a fault with the bypass valve, Possibly a leak/tear in the diaphragm. I had everything apart when I did the supercharger service about 1500 miles ago and looked at the bypass valve and it seemed ok at the time. Spring, etc... but I didn't test the diaphragm.

I should get the Detroit tuned one in a few days so it will be interesting to see the results of that.
rob

 

I’d say the bypass valve should fix the slow boost build. If not, I suppose smoke testing for vaccum and boost leaks would be a good idea.

 

F.Y.I. The Detroit BPV simply has a stronger spring (6lbs.) so it closes quicker and builds boost sooner. If the plunger on your existing BPV is still stiff (push it in with your finger), it's likely that it does not need replacement. Adrian tuned my R53. I did a before and after dyno pull. "Before" was 176.5hp at the wheel (with a 15% pulley and one-ball exhaust). Adrian provided me with an MS5150 ECU tuned to 380cc injectors that I added after the first dyno run. My "After" dyno run was 193.5hp at the wheel, a gain of 17hp from the injectors/tune (that works out to around 222hp at the crank). The injectors didn't provide much if any of that. It was Adrian's tune, plus the use of the more programmable 5150 ECU (post-facelift version). Needless to say, I'm extremely happy with the results and the car is a blast to drive. I've since added a Madness Mini CAI which probably added another 2-3hp. BTW, Adrian is very easy to work with and will help you through the "computer" processes. Caveat: He's in Romania so don't expect one-to-one, instant contact due to the time difference.