Hi everyone, im from Spain, and i little bit surprise or worried about my results at the dyno, here you are mys spec:

Gen: R53
Model: Cooper S
DOB: Feb 2003
Wheel/tyre size: 205/45/17
Mileage: 45k
Tuner: STOCK!!

Mods:
ALTA V2 CAI
ALTA 17% PULLEY
JANSPEED MANIFOLD & HIGH FLOW CAT
MILLTEK CATBACK
GRS IC
JCW 380CC INJECTORS
RMW CAM
M7 HEATSHIELD AEROGEL
M7 THERMOSTAT
GTT BYPASS VALVE
GTT SCREAMIN DEMON COILPACK
GTT LIVE WIRES
DENSO IRIDIUM SPK
STOCK TUNE

DYNO: TECNIAUTO (BARCELONA) SPAIN

MAX POWER ENGINE: 206 BHP/151,7KW @ 6630 RPM
MAX POWER TORQUE: 230NM @ 5030 RPM




I don't know, but after looking all the dynos here, i think my car does has a very slow bhp with all the mods i do have...isnt it? I thought my car would have between 220 and 230bhp, is that because i still have the stock ECU and didn't re-tune? or why then?

Please if some of you could answer me i would be very pleasant

 

a tune would definitely MAXIMIZE the potential of all the mods you have done.

 

i thought that as well, how many HP would gain with a tune?

 

With the mods and a stock ECU, those are respectable numbers.

My only suggestion would be to change out the coilpack, we have seen some of our R53s give up a little horsepower with that UNIT. Your may be just fine, since you have a matched set, wires/coilpack.

A good tuner should be able to find you more HP and TQ. Don't use a canned tune, you need to tune to your specific setup.

Enjoy, I think you have very good power.

Don

 

Dump the live wires...more of a gimick IMO.
Denso plugs are good, but have gotten a reputation for a very short life..check them out. Maybe a port and polish on the intake would help...3 or 4 hp anyways....also you are likely running rich with 380's and no tune....good driveability, but too rich for max hp. Not bad though, remember Dino tunes are realy of only comparitive value...they hp from Dino to Dino will vary with the same car.
Edit....janspeed intake....the polish might not help too much...I do bet you head and valves are holding you back....and check you boost level...maybe you supercharger is getting tired...depends on a lot of factors...but worth a look.

 

The HP numbers would be much higher with a increase in red line. Most of the cars with big numbers reach over 7500 & 8000 RPM. So, your numbers actually look pretty good. Also, you only have one data point. Dyno results are really only good to show relative gains after making changes or possibly to compare other cars ran on the same dyno and even the same day.

 

hey Chuck.... congrats on your championship

 

You mean to install again my STOCK coilpack? I changed for the kit screamin demon coilpack who has 40,000 volts over 37.000 stock, even better than the MSD one, and the live wires.

So better a custom setup for my ECU instead a standard setup or chip...
I was thinking in RMW RTT, do you recomend or better a custom setup on dyno too?

Thanks Don

 

Thanks allot mate.
I got other Magnecor wires at home, better those than the live wires?

I had on mine to change the Denso ones for the NGK IX spk that many people recomend.

i was thinking about to getting the Mini madness modified air box for my Alta V2 cai for better airblow through the top vents.

I know i need a tune because of those injectors are bigger...
That dyno is the best here, tested on many stock minis and shows the sames amount that the dealers says.

Head and pistons for the future now...and 440 injectors too
Next month i install the boost gauge so we will see...

 

Cars making 260+Whp are running on Stock Coilpack and Stock Wires

 

Wow didn't know that...
Would affect on number the gear on Dyno? It was run on 4th gear and max power of 170 km/h (how much in miles?)

 

Hope things go better in the New Year. Merry Christmas.

 

Thanks man, you too

 

I don't want to call myself an expert....a lot of very well respected guys have chimed in already....but i would recommend reading the reprinted article at http://www.helix13.com/mini/products/engine-intake
about halfway down, about sparkplug wires...not totaly neutral (by Magnecor), but it does make a lot of good points.
IMO, just use a good high quality ignition wire, and a good coil (duration, among other things of the spark is also important, not just the Amp rating), and all is good. The coil you have does have followers....and some plusses...but more than a few folks have done better without (maybe they failed to open up their plug gaps to handle the extra voltage from the new coil?).
You numbers are pretty nice.....the head and bigger injectors in the future sound like a great plan!! Heck, with some money, and a place to store a second car to use as a daily driver, I'd be doing the same!! IMO, just be careful when you buy you injectors, and be sure to get ones with the proper spray pattern, preferably not re-drilled unit. Quality re-drilled unit are around (M7, etc), just be sure you know what you are getting!!

 

As for the head, Some of the best ones out there come from guys you might not hear a lot about (some people have better cheerleaders). Some of the heads being produced, turn in great numbers, but are, how should I say it nicely, should not be used in a daily driver IMO due to relalibility reasons.....they dino great, but just don't stand up to daily driving without problems like cracks or burnt valves, in part due to cost saving measures. Our MINI's come from the factory with Inconel valves (pretty sure,...can anybody verify this?)...so they can stand up to the rigors they are exposed to in a supercharged engine, and have a long life. Any new, or rebuilt head should have the same, or better, standard. Period. Use of stainless steel nitrided valves, is a cost saving measure to achieve a price point, and is OK for a weekend driver or track car,that will see limited use and miles, but not good if you want OEM style reliability. The basic moral to the story...you get what you pay for and if you want extreme performance, the valve-train is not the place to skimp.
I hope i didn't ruffle too many feathers with my rant, but it had to be said.

 

The gear you do the dyno runs on doesnt matter. The only difference is any difference in frictional losses between one gear and another.

 

Seems like a vey good dyno number for mods you have, considering no tune. Custom dyno tune will get it at what you were hoping for. Cam pulley and exhaust are really your only power adder mods you got, header will fare better results but custom dyno tune is a must.

 

Yeah, custom tune got me up to 229whp