R50/53 Next mod .. dt bypass valve or better coil ,wire n plugs
#1
Next mod .. dt bypass valve or better coil ,wire n plugs
My current mods are ..catless headers , pacesetter exhaust , dual catch cans , larger intercooler , 15% pulley , Cai , jcw fuel injectors and I just realized I have a VMS coil pack and not even an msd though it has msd wires and I found an ngk plug box in the car so assumed it has those but cannot confirm that
so that why I was considering buying eBay 10mm Dragonfire wires , screaming demon coil ( highest voltage ) ngk 2 range colder plugs and gap them a bit larger due to larger wires and a stronger coil..
Should I do that ignition upgrade or should I get the Detroit speed tuned bypass valve .I also will be installing my throttle controller once my harness arrives from waymotorworks ( thx guys !)
My car runs perfect as is but it has unknown plugs in it and a no better than stock coil and meh wires ..
I guess which would be better bang for the buck since they are priced about the same ..
I already planned on and am saving for the waymotorworks street performance tune or a cam in 2 months but the wife said she'd get me a little gift before then soooooo.
so that why I was considering buying eBay 10mm Dragonfire wires , screaming demon coil ( highest voltage ) ngk 2 range colder plugs and gap them a bit larger due to larger wires and a stronger coil..
Should I do that ignition upgrade or should I get the Detroit speed tuned bypass valve .I also will be installing my throttle controller once my harness arrives from waymotorworks ( thx guys !)
My car runs perfect as is but it has unknown plugs in it and a no better than stock coil and meh wires ..
I guess which would be better bang for the buck since they are priced about the same ..
I already planned on and am saving for the waymotorworks street performance tune or a cam in 2 months but the wife said she'd get me a little gift before then soooooo.
#2
Best bang for the bucks when it comes to ignition would be stock ignition. There's decent HP MINIs out there still running factory coil pack. Two steps colder plugs are recommended with anything that's not factory s/c pulley. Wires and plugs are normal maintenance, but I doubt you'll see any difference with aftermarket ones if everything is fine.
I have the Detroit BPV and I like it over the stock buttery one. It's more like an on/off switch, so it might not be for everyone.
I have the Detroit BPV and I like it over the stock buttery one. It's more like an on/off switch, so it might not be for everyone.
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BlwnAway (01-24-2020)
#3
Best bang for the bucks when it comes to ignition would be stock ignition. There's decent HP MINIs out there still running factory coil pack. Two steps colder plugs are recommended with anything that's not factory s/c pulley. Wires and plugs are normal maintenance, but I doubt you'll see any difference with aftermarket ones if everything is fine.
I have the Detroit BPV and I like it over the stock buttery one. It's more like an on/off switch, so it might not be for everyone.
I have the Detroit BPV and I like it over the stock buttery one. It's more like an on/off switch, so it might not be for everyone.
#4
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Honestly I'd save your money and do neither. Or at least just do the plugs to make sure you have the colder heat range for the pulley.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/john-c...gs-by-ngk.html
Otherwise there is NO hp in plugs and wires and coils. You can spend all the money on them and you won't make anymore power, the OEM work fine. We have a cost effecitve kit if you still want to replace it all
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ignition-package.html
You only need a bypass valve if yours is actually failed. People love to buy them and we sell them all the time but it is a band-aid as the dip that people feel is actually a dip in the fuel mapping. Putting a stiffer spring in the bypass valve mask the fuel map issue. So as long as you have a good working bypass valve you can adjust the screw on it and make sure it closes all the way but otherwise you don't need one. Even on my track car and on my street car I still run the stock bypass valve.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/john-c...gs-by-ngk.html
Otherwise there is NO hp in plugs and wires and coils. You can spend all the money on them and you won't make anymore power, the OEM work fine. We have a cost effecitve kit if you still want to replace it all
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ignition-package.html
You only need a bypass valve if yours is actually failed. People love to buy them and we sell them all the time but it is a band-aid as the dip that people feel is actually a dip in the fuel mapping. Putting a stiffer spring in the bypass valve mask the fuel map issue. So as long as you have a good working bypass valve you can adjust the screw on it and make sure it closes all the way but otherwise you don't need one. Even on my track car and on my street car I still run the stock bypass valve.
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mountainhorse (01-29-2020)
#5
Honestly I'd save your money and do neither. Or at least just do the plugs to make sure you have the colder heat range for the pulley.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/john-c...gs-by-ngk.html
Otherwise there is NO hp in plugs and wires and coils. You can spend all the money on them and you won't make anymore power, the OEM work fine. We have a cost effecitve kit if you still want to replace it all
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ignition-package.html
You only need a bypass valve if yours is actually failed. People love to buy them and we sell them all the time but it is a band-aid as the dip that people feel is actually a dip in the fuel mapping. Putting a stiffer spring in the bypass valve mask the fuel map issue. So as long as you have a good working bypass valve you can adjust the screw on it and make sure it closes all the way but otherwise you don't need one. Even on my track car and on my street car I still run the stock bypass valve.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/john-c...gs-by-ngk.html
Otherwise there is NO hp in plugs and wires and coils. You can spend all the money on them and you won't make anymore power, the OEM work fine. We have a cost effecitve kit if you still want to replace it all
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-ignition-package.html
You only need a bypass valve if yours is actually failed. People love to buy them and we sell them all the time but it is a band-aid as the dip that people feel is actually a dip in the fuel mapping. Putting a stiffer spring in the bypass valve mask the fuel map issue. So as long as you have a good working bypass valve you can adjust the screw on it and make sure it closes all the way but otherwise you don't need one. Even on my track car and on my street car I still run the stock bypass valve.
the JCW tune doesnt fit my needs so I'm going to look more into the wmw tune , it's Abit pricey but it might be just want my car wants.
Last edited by MiniManAdam; 01-26-2020 at 06:25 PM.
#6
It doesn't appear that you have done much research in regards to modding your car. Most of the information and parts you have listed are known to be inferior to oem or just plain wrong. My suggestion is do some more research before spending any more money on crap you don't need and on stuff that doesn't work.
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Grand-Cayman (02-03-2020)
#7
It doesn't appear that you have done much research in regards to modding your car. Most of the information and parts you have listed are known to be inferior to oem or just plain wrong. My suggestion is do some more research before spending any more money on crap you don't need and on stuff that doesn't work.
Lol I wouldn't call the mods wrong by any means as my car compared to stock ones with half the mileage is much much faster . I know, I've lined up against a few . So we're not gonna get into the pissing match about what your opinion and mine are..
But can I ask what is "inferior" in my mod list that I need to "research" more about ????
And what you think should be changed ?
I am new to mini but not new to modding or building .. I know the benefits of upgraded ignition stuff and I know the pro n con of that bypass valve and I liked the fact it brings on boost sooner and is a new part as mine is old and as you read my ignition stuff is crap ( that I didn't put on) hense why I was inquiring about the listed mods.. but im always open to criticism and or advice.. its how you learn
But to say stock wires and coil vs screaming demon and 10mm wires is better I think is just opinion . Yea, sure stock may last much longer and stuff but I'm nit worried about that . If it delivers a hotter stronger spark with less resistance to the plugs it's better to me EVEN if it lasts half the time as stock setup . In the time IT DOES work it will work more efficiently . And THATS what I'm looking to do with this car . Run it as strong n hard as possible. It's not a daily driver ... Though I do take it out just for drives as I love driving .
Last edited by MiniManAdam; 01-27-2020 at 10:29 AM.
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#8
Lets start with the ignition, OEM is as good if not better than ALL alternatives. No advantage to changing anything to aftermarket.
2 catch cans, why.......not needed. Maybe one on the PCV valve.
Larger IC, waste of money. OEM has been proven over and over again to be the most efficient.
JCW injectors really need a tune to be able to scale correctly.
2 step colder plugs......no. One step colder only because of the pulley.
DT bypass valve only really needed if oem has failed. No performance gain except for a slight increase in boost coming on at lower revs.
Catless header offers no real improvement and is just not smart.
All of these issues could have been easily verified with a little reading.
2 catch cans, why.......not needed. Maybe one on the PCV valve.
Larger IC, waste of money. OEM has been proven over and over again to be the most efficient.
JCW injectors really need a tune to be able to scale correctly.
2 step colder plugs......no. One step colder only because of the pulley.
DT bypass valve only really needed if oem has failed. No performance gain except for a slight increase in boost coming on at lower revs.
Catless header offers no real improvement and is just not smart.
All of these issues could have been easily verified with a little reading.
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iw777 (02-17-2020)
#9
Lets start with the ignition, OEM is as good if not better than ALL alternatives. No advantage to changing anything to aftermarket.
2 catch cans, why.......not needed. Maybe one on the PCV valve.
Larger IC, waste of money. OEM has been proven over and over again to be the most efficient.
JCW injectors really need a tune to be able to scale correctly.
2 step colder plugs......no. One step colder only because of the pulley.
DT bypass valve only really needed if oem has failed. No performance gain except for a slight increase in boost coming on at lower revs.
Catless header offers no real improvement and is just not smart.
All of these issues could have been easily verified with a little reading.
2 catch cans, why.......not needed. Maybe one on the PCV valve.
Larger IC, waste of money. OEM has been proven over and over again to be the most efficient.
JCW injectors really need a tune to be able to scale correctly.
2 step colder plugs......no. One step colder only because of the pulley.
DT bypass valve only really needed if oem has failed. No performance gain except for a slight increase in boost coming on at lower revs.
Catless header offers no real improvement and is just not smart.
All of these issues could have been easily verified with a little reading.
Like my catch can I put in inline with pcv valve as my intercooler had a decent amount of oil in it when I removed it for my injector install..so I know some don't need them BUT mine does . The 1st can was there from the p.o so I routed the lines correctly atleast on it ,removed the vent filter it had and left it just for looks pretty much.
And with the JCW injectors it's been debated if the stock ECU does or doesn't calibrate for them .
MY CAR for sure did..it thew no cel or has any issues running them other than a small decrease in mileage . Some say the ECU can calibrate the such small change and I agree with them because I personally did this . The car runs better with them and my mods vs the stock injectors ..oyea and everyone said eBay injectors couldn't calibrate correctly MOST of the time, well these thankfully did but that doesn't mean they will on a different setup .
the larger intercooler I know for a fact is helping as I ran a stock for 2 days and had 2psi extra boost and on avg 15degree Hotter intake temps and when they spiked above 200 on hard pulls it took the same amount of time to recover as the larger intercooler even . The larger intercooler also makes my car feel like it has better mid-range power too. So MY intercooler for SURE flows more and extracts more heat . My gauge has verified these results too !
I agree in some instances certain mods are better than others exp in conjunction . I want the most HP and TQ out of my mini as possible . Reliability is a factor too obv but I don't expect a racing part to last as long as a stock part ran under stock conditions .
What would you change or add to my setup for 260$ to help it perform better ??? With all it has done to it ,as it sits what would be your next step to add power ???
If this was my car ,from stock ..I would have started with a complete big valve head and cam and built it to match that . But I got the car how I got the car and rite now I don't have 1400$ for a performance head .
what is your opinion on the wmw tune ?
Last edited by MiniManAdam; 01-28-2020 at 10:48 AM.
#10
A tune is definitely what you want. A Dinan Stage 1 tune added 12hp to my stock 163hp for a total of 175hp (at the crank). My mods are minor and include a one-ball exhaust and a 15% pulley that were added after my tune. On a dyno, I recently pulled 176hp at the wheel (equates to 201hp at the crank). It's plenty fun to drive as-is but like you I'm always looking for a bit more. I have 380cc injectors (JCW size) yet to install. I don't see what MINI you're running but if it's an R53 you might think about switching to the MS5150 ECU. It has more extensive mapping capabilities and can take advantage of tuning that the original ECU cannot. This is according to a European auto engineer I've been communicating with who claims an additional 35hp with the upgraded ECU. I'm reserving my opinion on that large a gain until I receive it (on its way), get it installed and schedule another dyno session. But, if I net even +25hp the hp per dollar ratio is more than worth it because I would be more than happy to be pushing 225hp with a reliable motor. I will post results when I have them -- hopefully during the next 2-3 weeks since the package is coming from across the pond.
#11
#13
C'mon guys...Adam is looking for help... not criticism...
Yes, I agree that the car Adam has, like about 80% of the modded cars out there, has some bits and bling on it that have been marketed well and don't really do much.
.
Yes, I agree that the car Adam has, like about 80% of the modded cars out there, has some bits and bling on it that have been marketed well and don't really do much.
BUT that is why he's here.... in a community to support him.... with a car that is fun as heck !!
.
Last edited by mountainhorse; 01-29-2020 at 09:06 AM.
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blue66 (04-19-2020),
Grand-Cayman (02-03-2020)
#14
Have you personally done mods on your personal car and have seen the negative or positive results ??? That's what I'm asking , IDC what you think I care what's fact and that's the problem is alot of people throw around opinions as facts and then other people researching come across them and it ****s them over at times..
This is why I bought an eBay throttle controller , I did it just to try it and report back how it worked on this car. I won't say well eBay is junk and it's cheap and from China so it must not be as good as pedal commander or something ..well,it was and it is..I know because I personally have done it and seen it work .
thats all I'm saying man , if there's something wrong on my car lmk , I'm new to these cars and have a alot of learning to do but making statements like you did get me and other people no where ..
#15
Adam, The best mods... are good maintenence... checking out the car and finding any issues and reparing them before something goes south.
My short list is....
Super charger oil change
Belt and tensioner
Oil and oil filter (and ensuring that the drainback valve is not broken like on many R53's)
Fuel filter
Flush brakes
Motor mounts (Front, lower and trans)
Change out Trans oil
Change the spark plugs
Make sure the coolant is good.
Check the power steering fan for function and damage
Check power steering fluid tank and hose for leaks
If the timing chain/guides were not replaced ever on the car... that may be something you want to consider.
These are all the normal things that, if checked/corrected can KEEP you motoring... and that's the best performance IMO
I'm sure that fellow NAM'ers can add more.
Performan
My short list is....
Super charger oil change
Belt and tensioner
Oil and oil filter (and ensuring that the drainback valve is not broken like on many R53's)
Fuel filter
Flush brakes
Motor mounts (Front, lower and trans)
Change out Trans oil
Change the spark plugs
Make sure the coolant is good.
Check the power steering fan for function and damage
Check power steering fluid tank and hose for leaks
If the timing chain/guides were not replaced ever on the car... that may be something you want to consider.
These are all the normal things that, if checked/corrected can KEEP you motoring... and that's the best performance IMO
I'm sure that fellow NAM'ers can add more.
Performan
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Grand-Cayman (02-03-2020)
#16
Adam, The best mods... are good maintenence... checking out the car and finding any issues and reparing them before something goes south.
My short list is....
Super charger oil change
Belt and tensioner
Oil and oil filter (and ensuring that the drainback valve is not broken like on many R53's)
Fuel filter
Flush brakes
Motor mounts (Front, lower and trans)
Change out Trans oil
Change the spark plugs
Make sure the coolant is good.
Check the power steering fan for function and damage
Check power steering fluid tank and hose for leaks
If the timing chain/guides were not replaced ever on the car... that may be something you want to consider.
These are all the normal things that, if checked/corrected can KEEP you motoring... and that's the best performance IMO
I'm sure that fellow NAM'ers can add more.
Performan
My short list is....
Super charger oil change
Belt and tensioner
Oil and oil filter (and ensuring that the drainback valve is not broken like on many R53's)
Fuel filter
Flush brakes
Motor mounts (Front, lower and trans)
Change out Trans oil
Change the spark plugs
Make sure the coolant is good.
Check the power steering fan for function and damage
Check power steering fluid tank and hose for leaks
If the timing chain/guides were not replaced ever on the car... that may be something you want to consider.
These are all the normal things that, if checked/corrected can KEEP you motoring... and that's the best performance IMO
I'm sure that fellow NAM'ers can add more.
Performan
There's alot of unknowns with my car as I bought it from a mom who's son owned it who had passed away . So the car was you get what you see and never owning a mini and coming from v8 rwd cars I have Abit of a learning curve .
The only issue I have to address is cel because I don't have a catconverter ..it has an elbow I seen on it but it must not have the appropriate air flow so I bought and am going to try an adjustable one and if that doesn't work I'm buying and trying a emulator from wmw..other than that the car has 0 issues and nothing nothing essential rite now or yes, I would do that . But yes, in spring I'm taking the car to my buddies and we're going over every inch of the car as I will be hitting the track very soon and he's an old school sleeper car builder and has anything I might need to do repairs on my car then..
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mountainhorse (02-03-2020)
#17
#18
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mountainhorse (02-04-2020)
#20
Are These are the correct range colder plugs you guys suggest ?????
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Mini-C...sAAOSwNxda8-Qa
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Mini-C...sAAOSwNxda8-Qa
#21
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