Is you ecu a pre or post face-lift. If pre face-lift the the oil pressure an temp will not work.

 

Post (Sept 06)

 

Ok, there's 2 possibilities :

1. my chrono was ****ed before I bought it
2. When rewriting the flash (a good dump from digital Kaos), something broke somewhere. (I'm using a good R270) because my very first read attempt failed and corrupted flash section

I can read/write flash & eeprom as many times I want, everything matches, but something is maybe wrong somewhere else .... don't know

At this point, the easier way for me is to find another chrono, only change mileage and VIN in eeprom, and DO NOT TOUCH the flash this time....

 

I went through a similar issue when I corrupted my flash. I remember it being a pain to bring back. I actually left all the wires soldered to my board and then plugged it into the car when testing everything over and over again.
Did you save the good original files? That part is so important in the case of something like this happening.

Sent a pm with a file to try.

 

Thanks for your pm @AutoMutt

I've used digitalKaos files (linked below) which I have compared to other xprog dumps (the 2MB Files) and theses are 100% matching. But I can't make it to work ... Did you have this weird behavior with the oil pressure needle going crazy as soon as the Kombi is plugged in car ?

Does someone know where I can input 12V on chrono PCB to test it on bench ? Thx

HW30 SW22-23 FLASH

HW30 SW22-23 EEPROM

 

Yes, I experienced that as well. When my flash was corrupt and when I used a flash that had the wrong HW/SW (knowingly while experimenting).
And, you also changed your ZCS too is that correct?

Shrevemini might be able to offer the best advice as he installed a chrono. I went from chrono to navi.

 

I tried but as the kombi itself seems completely wrong ..... If I can get to the point where the Kombi works (understand, the oil pressure needle doesn't go crazy) it would be a first victory.

'm about to throw this to the bin actually.

 

Ok. Finally got it working fine. I go out for a quick test drive and I'll write what happened and what to do with the correct files etc.

 

Good luck!!

 

I'm out for grocery's but as far as I can see. I can't get my ASC light on (can't disable my ASC) and I don't see my fog lights indicators (but I'm not even sure there are fog lights indicators)

For the ASC issue, I may have to clear fault codes using INPA, I may have thrown some codes with plugging in and out the Kombi from the car....

Will keep you up to date.

 

Ok ! I'm back !
So, the eeprom file found on digital kaos was NOT good, but the flash file was. I kept flashing the FLASH & eeproms again and again .... what a day !

To people doing the same thing as me (nav to chrono) here are the files you need if you corrupt your flash area with a R270 programmer (which seems to be the case as soon as the 1st read occurs, then you're good)

HW30 SW23 FLASH

HW30 SW23 EEPROM

HW30 SW23 EEPROM with 0 km

These files are known working good ! Meant to be used with a R270 programmer. (Files are hosted on my github, they're not meant to disappear anytime soon)

It looks like you don't even need to change the VIN, @thomm said you can match the VIN using NCS Expert if the mileage is under a given value. (0 is fine)

To answer my previous message ....

There are NO fog indicators on the double cluster setup. Quite strange ... You don't know when they are ON or OFF ...

One problem is still present, I can't turn off the ASC .... if someone as a clue on this, that would be super nice. I tried to use INPA but I can't scan my DSC for errors (unstable communication error), nor my BC1 module (INPA crashes after 10-15sec)

Thanks for your help, I'll be there to help others

 

Replying to myself again.

ASC functionality is coded in KMB and not in MK60 or BC1 as I thought.

Coded it back to "activ" as the files I used in my previous post don't have ASC enabled.

Problem solved !

 

Hey guys I read through your posts and was suitably impressed with peoples ingenuity.
Can I ask please, as of now (August 2020) do we have a route for those of us who are not programmers to get their chrono ready to install in a mini without the various errors/warnings lights and have the main dials work correctly?

I would, like others, be happy to pay for this service

Cheers

Andrew

 

Hi @Andrew Yorkshireman

If you really don't want to bother with buying stuff and soldering things ... I know a guy from "R53 owner group" on facebook (UK group) who provides this kind of service.

I suggest you to ask there if you want someone in your area to do it for you (If you're located in UK as your profile suggests)

If you want his name I can send it to you, but you have disabled private messages...

 

so, with this in NCSEXPERT i could have the original mileage ? I bought a chronos but i have a central speedo... i need to know before i swap the gauges

 

Great thread.... lots of details !!

Was wondering if you guys can take a minute to answer a quick question.

I have a donor, functional when removed, ChronoPack tacho/speedo combo...

Was hoping to install just that and leave the center speedo alone and installed.

I really want to have a proper speedo in front of me on the column... but dont need all the gauges in the center. (I have a scangauge in the car)

Would this be a plug and play add?.... Or not possible without the whole deal?


Thanks in advance !







.

 

Yes and no. It will function as far as tach an speedo. But all you dummy lights will be off. Along with your indicator light.
Watch vid link below.

 

Thank you for all the great info...

So... I have the entire donor car... same year (2006) ... and the 'target' car is a Factory JCW without Chrono...

Can I swap out the ECU and other modules from the donor to get it all to work?

What about coding the donor Chrono-cars ECU for JCW engine package ?



.

 

You can run into some problems.
1. The mileage is stored on the center speedo. So if it does not have the same milage, yours will be off.
2. The donor ECU would have to have the same parameters as your old car.
3. You would need to swap out you key, ignition tumbler, your door locks an your EWS module.
4. If you do all the above you will have a vin mismatch when your car is ever scanned.

This is what I did.
I sent my Chrono center gauge to a friend of mine. He was able to recode the center gauge with my vin along with the miles I requested. Since I was shipping. I had him add a certain amount of miles. So when I got it back. We were able to account for the miles I put on my mini.
Now the other issue what type of ECU you have. If it is a post face lift all the gauges will work.
If it is a pre facelift the oil gauges will not work.
So you would need acpost lift ECU programed to your specs an setup in virgin mode. So you can still use your old keys.

 

you should be able to use a facelift ecu with ews removed like I use, rather than virgin coding one to your car

 

So.... If I have a complete donor car with chrono, and a 'receiver car' ... both 2006 Model-Year Cooper-S models... What would I need to transplant to the Chrono Gauges into the Non-Chrono equipped car?

Besides the chrono center cluster, the speedo/tach cluster... would I need to swap the DME (AKA ECU??) and the EWS ?
Any other electronic modules from the donor car to pull it off and swap?
Are the harnesses in the car the same?

I think it would be straight forward to swap out the transmitters in the ignition keys .... and retain the cut-key itself hence not needing new tumblers in the ignition/door lock as those are simply mechanical parts.... right??

I'm not concerned with VIN or SMOG/Inspections as I hold clean title on BOTH cars in my name and both will be track-only non road legal cars.
They will never be put on the road again.

Any precautions to swapping out electronic modules?


Any help is much appreciated.



.

 

Scroll up and read reply #2, https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4508464

you are going to have lights on in the dash, codes in the computer because of VIN difference, some of your items in the car may not work because the other car didn't have them.

Bryan

 

Bryan,
Sincere question here.

Why would there be lights in the dash and codes in the computer?? if EVERYTHING.... All modules like BC1, ECS plus DME (aka ecu or 'computer'), Speed/Tach clutster, center Chrono-Cluster from the same model year, LCI (aka 'Facelift') and model of car is swapped.... in this case both are 2006 R53's

This would be complete transplant of all items that contain this information, I believe...from a donor car, to the receiver car.... Right??

Shouldn't the VIN match the gauges, cluster, DME, EWS, BC1 that all came from a running donor car together?
I doubt that the wiring-harness itself has anything built into it that contains the VIN besides these modules/'computers' ... or is there something else that I am glaringly missing?

Again, I am not at all concerned about the VIN in the Cluster matching the VIN stamped into the physical body of the car. Track use and I own both VIN numbers/cars/titles.


Bryan, when you did your car... did you swap all of these items from the donor car? (DME, BC1, EWS, Chrono + speed/Tach gauges??)



I've read the entire thread... I just cant find the info needed.





.

 

Unless both cars came from the factory with everything exactly the same on them, which I doubt, you are going to end up with lights on in the Chrono cluster, and/or the speedo-tach cluster. There are numerous threads on this subject....so far nobody has done a successful swap to Chrono cluster, including myself. I have the program here to fix the lights on, I just have not had time to mess with it.

If you think you can do it, give it a try, if it works, you will be the first person to succeed ......I didn't have a donor car, I just had the Chrono gauge set from the same year car...lots of things in my car didn't work, my back up parking distance sensors for one...there were many other items as well

Let me know how it turns out

Bryan

 

My swap has been done for years and I have no error lights, The only thing I don't have is The miles displaying correctly. To fix all the error lights you need to code the combi with all the same options that your original combi had The most important is DSC and ASC, you do this with NCS expert it's not terribly hard. Once done you need to code the steering angle as the last step