So we know these parts and can see them without any encryption like there is in the EMS2K, I am struggling to pickup on the missing two characters between these parts however. If i presume them to be 00 then this would give a total VIN of WMWRE34630TD75937 including checksum digit in. Any thoughts @AutoMutt ?
I believe the only important part to pass the VIN checks is the last ID section TD75937.

 

I appreciate the help Thomm, my only concern is that you perhaps did this on a M35080 chip, not the MC912 version similar to this cluster. I'm lead to believe the M35080 chip didn't have the same write protected values. That's why I was holding off on this for the time being... but, by chance do you know which chip you had?

You're on the right track Warwick, but I think your value is off ever so slightly. I don't know what the ""46" after the first WMWRE3 is about. But the car was a US auto so it would have to be a 3, and since made before '05, the next digit would be a 4. After that comes check digit (unknown at this point). Then digit ten will be a 4 for the cars year. Next we add TD75937 that we know from INPA and we can do the math for the check digit to find it is an 8... giving - WMWRE33464TD75937. So that means the hex values I'm looking for are - 57 4d 57 52 45 33 33 34 36 34 54 44 37 35 39 33 37

Also, I discovered in Tool32 the RIP error is due to the cluster not being coded properly... easy fix there.

 

Well guys, I've reached an impasse on any further progress for a while. Few other projects going on so I'll have to pick this back up in a few weeks.
I was able to change the km (mileage) on the second donor nav unit I have - also without a problem. But again I'm lost on the VIN. Open to suggestions in the meantime.

If anyone interested I've attached code from the programmer for you to consider. The VIN for this unit is - WMWRE33464TD75937

Look at sheet 2 in this doc (if you want to edit, click "file" and copy and you can do as you wish) - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Still unsure whether or not winkfp can be used to program the VIN. Lots of conflicting data here in the forums (and web in general). Even saw one thread with @MrBlah where someone told him they had changed VIN through winkfp a few times.
Another idea I saw is ista-p. but again, mixed reviews.

Don't know winkfp well enough to have given it a shot. Kombi ecu doesn't come up in comfort mode. In expert mode I can pull up P-SGBD: kombi50f but not sure what PABD would need to be... if this were even possible.

Anyway, problems for another time I guess. Good luck to any giving this a go.

 

Hmm, now I'm definitely even more lost about finding the middle part of the VIN @AutoMutt. Atleast I now know the full VIN so I'll try to take another look. As I said though apparently only the last 7 I'D characters are significant on a lot of BMW applications so you may be able to just change the last 7 to match and this may be enough.

It's not a problem but if NCS is not operating then it will make the job harder to code, unless you can change coding with Tool32? My usual approach is to read ZCS from EWS, make a small edit to account for chrono and then write to KMB and EWS. Then simply default code KMB and EWS (may not need to default code EWS but makes good practice)

Like I said mate, winkfp uses 0da files I believe and they are found in the DATA folder within sp-daten, I have never seen the files for KMB I've only seen them for MS5150 (FL EMS) and EMS2K but if you somehow have managed to find the DATA files for KMB then you can try it no problem. Simply input your ZUSB number and you can force a reflash (and including update to UIF area option should in theory correct your VIN and ZCS related numbers).

When you have some spare time, maybee you can upload the read files that you have and I can look to see if part of the VIN is maybee stored elsewhere. We can atleast try to change the last 7 characters of the VIN and see if it is enough to pass VIN compares (I have seen modules before with only the last 7 being correct and was enough)

 

A quick update for those keeping notes, here is a 10 sec version. I corrupted the chip on my donor kombi. Discovered I could bring it back with a flash using a temp rosfar file. Didn't have km or vin properly stored. Used a bin file saved from earlier and eeprom editor to write old data to chip. I now have two clusters with exact same km, vm, hw, sw, etc. Think I know why no one has done a how to on this. What a headache. Will have access to car later this weekend, trying to work up the courage to take the plunge with the real thing.

 

When you do it an get it to work. The next couple dozen questions will be. How much are you going to charge to do it for someone?😬

 

That's not good if the mileage change feature in R260 had corrupted the data, probably safer to make mileage correction yourself using hex editor.

In the end I assume that you have read your original KMB and wrote the eeprom data from that and onto the new KMB and has worked fine? Is probably the safest approach if the data is compatible 😍

 

AutoMutt I am keeping notes! Please, share an update on your progress with the VIN.
I am going to try same thing (change or FF VIN) on my Chrono over the weekend. Will be using a R270... will try first with FF the "visible" part of the VIN in the EEPROM and then initiate "replacement" with IstaP.
Wish me luck!

 

Best of luck bud, the mileage is right at the very top of the 2KB EEPROM data area which I'm sure you already know will need to be set to 00 for your approach or it will have to be atleast a lower count than your current count because they can only count upwards and not down.

I'd advise to find a backup flash file for your dash as I hear the R270 can corrupt the flash area in some cases (not sure how accurate that is, however there is a guy who has reworked his R270 and claims that it no longer corrupts the flash). Suppose you could check your board against this http://blog.obdii365.com/2017/08/22/...er-pcb-rework/
Might be wise to use a decent power supply aswell incase the supplied one is a bit on the lame side.

Remember to checkout the R270 wire numbers aswell since most the diagrams about for the Mini are in colours for R260 which ofcourse has less wires. Scroll down and there's a mention of colours vs numbers incase you didn't find this already http://blog.obdii365.com/2017/08/17/...edes-ezs-9s12/

Let us know how you go on

 

Hey crew, sorry been tied up with other projects and haven't had a chance to post. I've had the Navi unit in my car for 2/3 weeks now (swapped from chrono). It has been driven less than 50 miles so I can't give as good of an update as I'd like but so far no codes. Next week during spring break it will get driven and I'll see how the additional miles play out.

Actually, the only issue I seem to be having (in case someone can shed some light) - is the fuel gauge under the screen. It has the one red bar for empty, a few blank bars and then one orange bar. Other than that no issues have popped up.

Here are a couple of things I've learned:

- VIN, KM, ODO, SIA are all save in the kombi. Only VIN and KM really matter though as the others can easily be reset
- If switching from chrono to navi like me, your RIP (gauges behind wheel) will throw a code if not first reset.
- RIP stands for remote instrument pack
- When soldering the R260 to MCU - be sure you connection is solid. If any doubt, undo the wire it and start again.
- Open Rosfar3000 and click read. Immediately go to the EEPROM editor and save the file as a .bin and move it to a labelled folder
- Then go into the TEMP folder Rosfar3000 created and save BOTH files to the new labelled folder you have named (and will know/remember what it is)
- - - One file is your 2k VIN/KM info
- - - One file is the complete flash for the chip
- - - Seriously save this info well. Maybe create a text file and put the VIN KM, plus HW, SW and other info in here so you can easily recall it.
- I thought I knew the algorithm for the VIN so I manually changed it... didn't work
- I thought I could change VIN to all FF... didn't work
- I corrupted my chip as I mentioned in an earlier post. Thankfully a guy on the dk forum helped out and I re-flashed and got back on track
- Again... that backup file is super important in case you screw something up

To flash your info to a new kombi:
- Attach R260 to your original unit
- Run Rosfar3000
- Click "Read" to pull the chip info
- Note the KM on main screen and save all the safety files as I mentioned above
- Detach R260 from original unit
- Attach R260 to new/used unit
- Run Rosfar3000
- Click "Read" to pull the chip info
- Open EEPROM Editor
- Make sure you choose the right chip (our 1st gen is the 128)
- Load bin file for your ORIGINAL unit (you saved this if you read the batch of steps above this one)
- Write file from within EEPROM Editor
- (if you mess something up... you may have to do flash instead... or if you need to change HW/SW)
- Detach and plug it up!

I was able to successfully do this with 2 units other than my original and plug them in without any errors. One thing I'm unsure of though is whether or not the HW and SW numbers have to match up (little sticker on bottom right side of unit). In my case I was swapping from a chrono to a navi unit. I went ahead and made sure my numbers lined up as much as possible, I think I was only off by one... but HW and SW seem to be the most important and those matched for me. I am under the impression (but unsure) some of this info can be edited in edibabas after the fact (obviously not the VIN/KM).

- If you have more info than I and something here is wrong... please let me know so I can correct this post
- If you decide to try to do this to your unit... please don't fault me if it doesn't work properly.

I've had more messages than I can answer individually between multiple forums (so forgive me if I don't get back to you), but happy to lay out anything here on the forum that might be able to help others choosing to attempt this. Good luck if you are!

 

@AutoMutt I'll be going for the in-edit approach now and manually changing VIN and Mileage so I'll let you know if it goes "**** up" but I've guessed mileage and VIN as a test since this thread from three other random files and the sender confirmed me as being correct so fingers crossed. But I've got INPA and TOOL32 and with the onboard test functions including 'show last digits of VIN" I'm hoping will save me some time on failures 😂.

Regarding your fuel gauge, I assume you've already been into the coding and checked the fuel gauge related settings (like for example R52 and R53 fuel tanks differ slightly)? If not have a poke around there since I believe the coding is stored on the flash area (128KB) and not the EEPROM (2KB). If you want to get fancy and havnt already then subtract the CHRONO from your ZCS then add the NAV to it, write new ZCS to EWS and KMB. Then default code the KMB NAV.

Is that EEPROM editor section only for 2KB file or can it support 128KB FLASH also? As if so could then upgrade units SW to later or say from one region to another and so on (ofcourse aslong as HW is matching)

 

Cool man, good luck! If you get a min it would be great if you could share a pic of the correct values to change. I'd like to give it a try myself just for giggles.

Thanks for the info on the gauge. I did not know the 52 and 53 were different. I'll poke around in there and hope for an easy fix.

Yes, EEPROM Editor can write the entire 128kb flash

 

Thanks mate so editor can write both 2KB and 128KB?

I think I'm going to be late to the party here, after managing to get my shipment through customs I've inspected the device and the USB connector is located badly meaning my USB cable won't plug into it properly (not a massive issue since I could tweak the case). Problem is however, I've looked at the USB SERIAL chip and I can see some soldering bridges so I think the device is scrap (Hopefully PayPal will refund me the £114 I've wasted).

Did you check the quality of yours before use? Did it have any bridges on the chip legs?

Thankyou mate

Poor solder quality on ft232rl?

 

A little update from my side:

My programmer R270+ is with red PCB, all resistors were the "right" values, but has never been moded - I guess the Chinese have started manufacturing it correctly at some point.
At first I struggled alittle with the settings of the software *R270 software v1.2 and also v1.3 /both look the same/. I was able to read the EEPROM but not the flash.
To all who will be struggling with such tool: The COM port settings in device manager are critical - changed the latency times to 1ms and the baudrate to 112k and then voala, I was able to read the flash and the EEPROM.
Interesting observation: if using my laptop on batteries no problem reading/writing the MCU. If plug in the power supply of the laptop - sometimes reading/writting is stuck and eventually gives an error message. Laptop is Fujitsu, made in Japan, power adapter is original, but still it looks like it causes interference via the USB cable.

As for the coding part:
mileage can no be edited with this tool's software. The native tool is for MB and BMW only and do not recognize the Minis.
So I was not successful correcting the mileage of my donor Chrono dash
editted the VIN to FFs but no success the unit was like dead in the car.

Hooked up my original dash *the speedometer*, read the EEPROM and flash without any problems, put it back in the car - still working.
tried writing Speedo's .bins to the Chrono - still dead
tried writing Chrono's original .bins to the Chrono - still dead.
Haven't played with IstaP, yet, to check how the Chrono is seen there, if at all.

My guess is that maybe the flash got corrupted by my tries to read it before I got the right COM port settings.

AutoMutt, please send me your flash .bin of your Chrono, to try with it. Or maybe both flash and EEprom if these are so much connected.

BR and healthy quarantin-ing, if there is such at your sides of the world.

 

To anyone if playing with the Speedo:
the MCU is XC505305CPV8, mask 0K50E, but is actually the same 112pin MC68HC912DT128A with the same pinout.

to all you there who have more experience:
if .bins are read and saved by such MCU with 0K50E mask - can these be written to another MCU with 3K91D mask, if mask 3K91D is selected before the writing operation?
from my understanding the mask is needed for the decoding while reading/transfering to the MCU and the actual .bin is not dependent on the masks? or am I wrong?

 

Does anybody know where in the EEPROM the mileage is and how it is "coded", i.e. how to set it to 000000, although my bigger concern is the VIN, (so I get the DSC working)
All these if I get the donor Chrono back to life...

 

I have a few flash files for chrono on my laptop if you pm me an email address, now you don't want to be writing the flash file from a regular KMB onto a Chrono that will never ever work. You may be able to write your 2KB from your original and onto the chrono without an issue however. I'd offer to change your mileage for you as I've made a hexadecimal matrix calculator but I imagine you won't need this doing now or the VIN editing since you've got a read of your original KMB EEPROM which should in theory work on the Chrono. I think you're right in assuming the flash is what's broken here, open up the flash file in a hex editor and if the beginning of the file has no data then I'd say it's corrupted. If you need me to send the files I've got for you to try then just drop me a pm or if you need any mileage or VIN editing on an EEPROM file ect. I've found the correct bytes, the VIN is a combination of Hexadecimal, ASCII and decimal hence all of the confusion.

No updates from my end other than I've changed ZCS data on bench without any problems but cannot for the life change the VIN FG NR what so ever, Tool32 won't take it, NCS won't take it either (I even tried writing a custom nettodat file with the VIN changes aswell as the regular input ZCS> FGNR write approach&#128514. I assume the only time the VIN can be changed through OBD if it it's set to FF or/and the mileage to 00 I don't know, so I'll be editing the VIN once I've sorted the issue with my crap programmer recieved from China. £114 and they can't even put a genuine USB FTDI232RL chip on the board!! Yet my FGTECH my K+dcan both have genuine chips and they were a lot cheaper 😂.

Also note for reference, there's a mileage reset function within Tool32 so for reference you could always set the mileage to 000000 and try to select this job once the module is installed, it should in theory then take mileage data from the EWS. Ofcourse this wouldn't be needed if the VIN was matching or VIN was programmed in situ as then the mileage will synch itself as the unit soft resets.

 

It's right towards the top of the 2KB eeprom file. You'll see a block of data with a repeated hex string. It's a block of data on itself so you can't miss it. You can set the whole area to 0 without an issue. It's called a leading hexadecimal matrix. I can offer to change the VIN for you but I can't confirm if it will work 100% as I'm yet to test my own solution due to set backs of receiving a duff programmer

If you decide to change the VIN yourself I'd recommend only changing the last 7 characters as that's the only part that's significant within the coding environment checks but I don't think your DSC problem is because of the VIN. It's more likely because the ZCS and coding isn't correct for your vehicle. You can either go through the coding lines manually and change them or we can calculate you a new ZCS and with this you can then default code the module and all will be well.

 

Thank you for this information! If I knew all this before even trying to read the flash, I would have been successful!

As for the DSC, I am sure the different VIN of the donor Chrono is the only problem. The error the DSC itself is throwing if driving with the Chrono is something like "VIN mismatch". The TPMS is also not working, but it is built in the DSC, so it is logical.
If I put in and drive with the original Speedo dash, even without deleting errors, as I am driving at the moment, then the DSC is working perfectly and TPMS light is OFF.

 

No problem. Are you certain that the VIN error code is deriving from the DSC unit? I didn't think the VIN was checked between those modules if anything the KMB and EWS should be throwing VIN mismatch codes. Have you adjusted your ZCS accordingly and default coded the modules yet? If not then post your ZCS coding here and we can correct it for you. Then you write ZCS to both the EWS and KMB and then you can default code the whole car or atleast the KMB and any modules you think may be related.

 

Update, changed VIN and Mileage last night without a problem. Mind you after manually setting the mileage matrix to 00 I was still left with a odometer count of 252KM. I compared nettodat in NCS before and after and saw a change of bytes that are not present in the EEPROM (FC in my case which = 252 in DEC).

Tool32 reset mileage function says that it will work aslong as KM count is <255, I'll be trying that without being plugged into the car (to set a true 0) but I think the intended purpose of this function is to synch the mileage once at the vehicle.

New ZCS has been calculated and programmed on bench along with a default code so that bit is sorted and that's how to get the correct config specific to your vehicle and ofcourse prevent any mismatch faults. You'll need to write the new ZCS to the EWS also as I mentioned before as that stores central coding like the KMB does.

I never used the mileage correction function and never edited the file within the softwares own editor as I'm used to editing data myself so stuck to using Winols as that's what I'm used to but HXD is a good free in edit tool. Also maybee there is something wrong with the order of approach or maybee communication problems that caused a bad write in some cases but follow the basics always. I chuck Chinese power supplies in the bin, maybee another factor involved here since I use a 5A (for programming) and a 15A (for powering up units in situ) both with low ripple specs. These power supplies that come with units are cheap and nasty if you ask me. And the best thing about having a bench supply is you can tweak in your supply voltage, in my case I attached everything and powered it up and tuned the COAX 2.5V (closest I could get it to is 2.53V). Funnily enough in my case the input voltage for this was bang on 12v (at the power pin connector) which tells me the R260 has the correct regulation components onboard. VDD wire red being 5.06V and exactly double the value of the COAX EXTAL confirms this also. The r270 I've not messed with yet but already I can see the capicitor isn't too great on the board, replace this with a decent quality Japanese 16V 1000uF for what little they cost, especially if you've not got a decent bench supplier (which already contains good regulation control as mentioned)

As mentioned above already, I also always set my latency timer to 1ms on all of my devices but also ensure that the laptop is fully charged with charger plugged in, also pay attention to your power scheme settings... In XP you'd want it set to always on but you also have to go in manually to device manager and to USB root hubs and inhibit power management manually (unlike Win7+ which you can create schemes for, but be warned if using a device equipped with FTDI chip you don't want to use a driver that's above 2.10 otherwise the driver will either wipe the device ID or inject junk into its EEPROM). I also set the programs runtime to real-time, probably overkill but hey ho.

The order I followed was:
-Coded ZCS and default settings to module (I included the new intended VIN but from my observations this is ignored anyway so not important).
-Solder programmer to KMB, attach to computer, power up, launch software.
-Select MINI dash or incase of r270 select 3K91D EEPROM.
-Select read (and breathe).
-R260/rosfar software will save flash and EEPROM to its temporary folder (as mentioned above, make sure you grab these and label them for good practice).
-R270 I'm not sure if will do the same but if not then you'll need to manually save the file yourself once red and then you may need to select Flash and do the same so you've got full backup.
-I then closed software and switched off the power supply.
-Go ahead and make your edits to the 2KB EEPROM and take your time, HXD as I mentioned is free and simple I recommend that as with Winols you'll struggle to find and navigate without experience. In HXD you can edit via the text pane aswell as in place edit and the new values will turn to red so you can see if you mess things up. Save this modified EEPROM with a new name so you know what's right.
-Now repower the programmer, launch the software, select the correct one for Mini again.
​​​​​-Select read and wait for it to load up the file again (in r270 you'll want it set back to EEPROM again).
-In Rosfar go into editor and you'll see the open current EEPROM file and the correct MPU model selected already. Click open and select your new edited file and finally select WRITE (and breathe again). In r270 just open your edited EEPROM in place of the current you've just red and then select write.
​​​​​
Save yourself some time if you get to the scrappers and grab the KMB connectors you can atleast power the unit up then and operate the onboard test functions to make sure you've not corrupted the unit, you can also view the last digits of stored VIN in this menu by option 19-1. Option 19-2 will put the unit into test. These two come in handy. Just press and hold the odometer button before applying switch power to the KMB (you may have seen this before when people do the 19-21 reset option thinking it resets EMS adaptations when it doesn't). This way you can simply leave the soldered connection on untill your happy that the units working correctly and you can ofcourse see the mileage aswell. I luckily didn't need to rework but took the precaution as didn't want to be going to and from the car and desoldering ect ect.

 

Woooowwww. Can you translate that to English for those of us who are completely uninformed? Were you successful?

 

It's hard to put into simple terms because there's a lot going on and a lot of environment factors to pay attention to and i'm trying to also account for things that my have caused people issues at the same time sort ot thing. Yeah 100% success the first time around, I was expecting a lot of issues but then again i've spent a lot of time messing with BMW tools as can help give you great insight (y). Without that I wouldnt be able to have installed a 2007 EMS into my prefacelift ect and I wouldnt have been able to figure out how these KMB systems work

 

So what would I need someone to do so I can install the chrono gauges then. Because there is no way I could do everything you just explained.

 

You can get someone to program it all on a bench for you and default code it ect, there would be a ZCS mis match though unless you can wrtie the new ZCS to the EWS within the car but it shouldnt cause any issues but you will have an onboard fault code saying central coding incorrect or something along those lines but it wont effect the functioning of the vehicle