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I bought a non-working 2005 Mini Cooper S from the sister of someone who passed away. Looks like he worked on it and stopped.
I am seeking for help IDing what is missing under the hood and what minimum I need to start the engine and test the transmission.
I see the air box, duct, and filter are missing. I would need the air mass sensor for the engine to run, right? Sensor is supposed to be mounted on the duct?
Then why the hell is there a funnel connected to the transmission? It is an automatic transmission. Is that a CVT? Was the previous owner trying to refill fluid? What goes back on if I finish the refilling? I don't see any disconnected hoses....
I really need the workshop manual and ID all devices and hoses and understand what which does.
The air duct is not there. so are the box and air filter, etc... Where does the air mass sensor connect to? If I remove this hose, what goes on to the ending? This is the funnel. It connects to the tranmission.
This should get you started, but there's a lot of info and issues with these transmissions. Most of the time the fluid is changed in hopes of correcting a shifting problem so I hope everything is working ok when you complete the service. Also, when searching for info keep in mind that the S has a regular Aisin auto, not a CVT.
Not sure about anything else in your engine compartment, but the intake tube and airbox are missing. The intake tube is specific for the auto so make sure to get the correct one if you can't get the original parts from the seller. The airbox is the same for auto or manual. JWS3309 spec fluid should be used and make sure the car is level and the fluid temp is in the correct range, 95-113 deg F, when setting the fluid level.
It takes at least three fluid changes, with short drives in-between, to change most of the fluid as only about 2.5 qts. drain out when not dropping the pan. Even when dropping the pan to change the filter, a lot of fluid is still left in the torque converter so you should do at least one more drain after a short drive.
Looking at your video, I'm not sure that's the correct place to fill the auto trans on a gen 1. All the posts I've read use a plug on top, or an adapter on the drain port to pump the fluid up over the standpipe.
Here's probably the biggest thread about these transmissions, but there's a lot more info out there:
Here's a YouTube video for the R53 auto fluid and filter change. I haven't watched it in a while so I'm not sure if goes into detail about the fluid needing to be in the correct range. It does show the problem with trying to use the actual fill port on top though. The fluid barely fills the transmission and usually drips and makes a mess. If not, it takes a really long time to fill from the top. In the video they eventually fill from the bottom:
Thanks for the pointers. I am getting to know this car more.
However, I still don't know why the previous owner would connect a funnel to this port on the tranny.
Here are some links for the valve body, adjustments shifting problems, wiring diagram for the internal harness, and the adaptation process from Sonnax who sells rebuilt valve bodies.
They might be helpful if your trans is having issues after you can finally test drive the car. It also helps to identify which version/type of valve body you have since a version of the same trans is used in several different makes of car.
Ok. Engine running.
Here is what happened.
That hole where a funnel was connected to is just another fill hole. It uses the same M18x1.5 x12 Torx T55 screw plug (PN:24117570794).
I am using a rubber plug for now.
The previous owner was changing transmission fluid. Looks like he didn't know there's an overflow tube. I removed the overflow tube and more dirty fluid came out. The M14 plug was also missing and I now have to buy (24117551102).
So, I changed the transmission fluid (with Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid) by pumping it from the top fill hole until fluid flowed out thru the overflow tube.
And I figured out there is no MAF sensor on the intake plastic. There is only a MAP sensor on the throttle body. That means if I rev up the engine (if I can start it), RPM will should go up (and it does).
I also decided to give it a try and not siphon out the 3 year old gas with a fuel filter change.
So, fuel is there (even it is 3 yr old). Engine oil is changed. Transmission fluid changed. No MAS sensor so ok that there is no intake duct, air box or filter. Battery fully charged. And I have a newly made key ready (another story but you don't need dealer to make you a key even if you don't have any) to start the engine.
VOILA, Engine started and I could rev it up! 3 yr old gas OK (but I did put in one bottle of fuel treatment - that might have helped.)
Now comes the next obstacle. When I shifted the transmission from P to D or R, the car does not move at all. I can see the engine speed drop a bit thou when I shift. That means it is not the linkage? Also it looks like the transmission pan is new, judging by the label on the pan. The previous owner might have replaced it, along with working inside the transmission like changing the filter or replacing the valve body?
What should be the next steps?
The ABS light and the little triangle light are on when engine is running. I am getting INPA to try to scan code.
I will hold buying the intake plastic, airbox and filter until I know transmission is good.
Why is the transmission not driving? I know these transmissions are notorious. Most of the research tells me the cost of replacing the transmission is more than the car is worth. But maybe previous owner has done most of the work and maybe I just need to change the fluid 100%, or the valve body is new and now needs adaptation reset if there is such a thing for Aisin automatic transmission?
Maybe a junkyard transmission (off a wreck car) for a few hundred dollars would be a good option?
Or I see a new rebuilt valve body is no more than $1000. If I know 100% that can fix the problem, it is a good investment. But I will not spend four five thousands to replace the transmission.
I guess I need to dig deep into why transmission is not working and know the options I have.
Appreciate if any of you have any suggestions or comments.
Filling this trans is very difficult. You can under fill or over fill it very easily. A second note. The trans fluid is very specific for the cvt trans. Either get oem fluid or the equivalent. Plus I would go ahead an drop the trans pan to make sure they replaced the filter. I serviced my older r53 I had several years ago. I measured the exact amount what came out then replaced. I did this 2 times. After that it shifted like a dream.
The mas air flow is located on the block the drivers side above the thermostat. a tube runs from there to the intake pipe elbow
Hmmm, I have automatic transmission, specific a 6 speed Aisin transmission which is not CVT. I also believe it does not have a MAS sensor. It uses a MAP sensor on the throttle body instead.
Correct me if I am wrong and thank you for the comments.
Yes, it is tricky to fill this transmission. They just can't make it simple and old school.
Type the last seven of your VIN into the appropriate space and this will give you the exact parts BMW thinks you need for your car rather than guessing. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select
Good site to look up parts, thanks.
I know I have an Aisin auto transmission, not a CVT.
Assuming changing the fluid 100% would not help, is there anything I could do before concluding the whole transmission needs to be replaced?
Should I try replacing the valve body? Or software adaptation reset? Or look up any code in the transmission (how)?
10-10-2019, 02:27 PM
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