R50/53 give some tips on downshifting and braking
after reading this thread I figured some of you weekend racers could give a few tips on downshifting to thise of use who aren't up to that level yet. I'm starting to get the heal-to-toe thing down pretty good. For those of you who downshift just to avoid using the brakes, think about the last time you compared the price of a brake job to a clutch job.
I only downshift when approaching a stoplight that has just turned green, but have several cars in front of me. I can then be in the appropriate gear for accelerating. I agree, brakes are cheaper, so I don't do it just for fun.
As for technique, I suggest you find a nice deserted road/parking lot and just practice. For starters, begin your schooling by putting right foot heel on brake while car is at a stand still. Next, use your "toes" from the right foot to press on the accelerator while still keeping "heel" on brake. The revs rise. Now put your left foot clutch and engage first gear. Take heel off brake as you take left foot off clutch. Work on this until you can do this smoothly (it's actually quite effective for when you are stuck in a line of cars on an incline and want to avoid rolling backwards).
Once you've mastered heel/toe-ing from a stop, work on it while moving. Accelerate up to speed, then apply brakes. While braking, use your toe to increase revs while simultaneously applying clutch. Keep working on it until you can slow down and shift at the same time. The MINI makes this very easy, as the accelerator has that triangular chunk on the bottom left that gives you a great "toe" area to use.
This is very effective for when you need to slow for a big turn, but want to be able to shoot out on the other side. As you brake for the turn, rev with toe and shift, then feather out clutch and GO!
Yes, I've simplified it. But really, if you practice doing this from a stand still, moving on to doing it while moving becomes MUCH easier. This is how I learned. Now I heel/toe for any corner I find myself braking on.
R
As for technique, I suggest you find a nice deserted road/parking lot and just practice. For starters, begin your schooling by putting right foot heel on brake while car is at a stand still. Next, use your "toes" from the right foot to press on the accelerator while still keeping "heel" on brake. The revs rise. Now put your left foot clutch and engage first gear. Take heel off brake as you take left foot off clutch. Work on this until you can do this smoothly (it's actually quite effective for when you are stuck in a line of cars on an incline and want to avoid rolling backwards).
Once you've mastered heel/toe-ing from a stop, work on it while moving. Accelerate up to speed, then apply brakes. While braking, use your toe to increase revs while simultaneously applying clutch. Keep working on it until you can slow down and shift at the same time. The MINI makes this very easy, as the accelerator has that triangular chunk on the bottom left that gives you a great "toe" area to use.
This is very effective for when you need to slow for a big turn, but want to be able to shoot out on the other side. As you brake for the turn, rev with toe and shift, then feather out clutch and GO!
Yes, I've simplified it. But really, if you practice doing this from a stand still, moving on to doing it while moving becomes MUCH easier. This is how I learned. Now I heel/toe for any corner I find myself braking on.
R
I've never in my life heard of the "heel/toe" method. It sounds needlessly complicated to me. Why don't you just take your foot off of the brake and put it on the gas?
As for downshifting, it's just a matter of getting to know the car. As a general rule, you have a lot more control over the car when it's in gear, as opposed to coasting in neutral or with the clutch pedal in. If something unexpected happens and you need to move the car, it's going to be hard if you don't have it in the appropriate gear. Also, keeping the car in the correct gear, as opposed to neutral or in an arbitrary gear with the clutch in will help prevent either over-revving the engine or lugging the engine (which is very bad) if something unexpected should occur. Personally, I generally downshift through the gears just as I upshift. I can't fathom how this could lead to an early clutch job, and have never in my life worn out a clutch on any car I've owned, and have over 70k miles on the clutch in my '74 Karmann.
Also, I'd recommend using the e-brake on hills. For 90% of the time, just by being comfortable with the clutch and where it grabs will enable you to start without coasting back at all on most inclines. If the grade is so steep that you won't be able to avoid drifting backward, use the e-brake. It's easy, and it's very easy on the car, provided that you are comfortable with where the clutch engages. This heel-toe thing just sounds awkward as heck... maybe it's what you get used to. I've been driving on the hills of Seattle since I was 15, and any way but using the e-brake just sounds very bad for the car.
In my experience, downshifting is inconsequential when compared to bad technique. Riding the clutch, using the clutch on hills instead of the e-brake, popping the clutch off the line, and general poor driving like that are going to do way more damage to a clutch than driving it correctly.
The above is just my opinion... you guys drive however you'd like.
As for downshifting, it's just a matter of getting to know the car. As a general rule, you have a lot more control over the car when it's in gear, as opposed to coasting in neutral or with the clutch pedal in. If something unexpected happens and you need to move the car, it's going to be hard if you don't have it in the appropriate gear. Also, keeping the car in the correct gear, as opposed to neutral or in an arbitrary gear with the clutch in will help prevent either over-revving the engine or lugging the engine (which is very bad) if something unexpected should occur. Personally, I generally downshift through the gears just as I upshift. I can't fathom how this could lead to an early clutch job, and have never in my life worn out a clutch on any car I've owned, and have over 70k miles on the clutch in my '74 Karmann.
Also, I'd recommend using the e-brake on hills. For 90% of the time, just by being comfortable with the clutch and where it grabs will enable you to start without coasting back at all on most inclines. If the grade is so steep that you won't be able to avoid drifting backward, use the e-brake. It's easy, and it's very easy on the car, provided that you are comfortable with where the clutch engages. This heel-toe thing just sounds awkward as heck... maybe it's what you get used to. I've been driving on the hills of Seattle since I was 15, and any way but using the e-brake just sounds very bad for the car.
In my experience, downshifting is inconsequential when compared to bad technique. Riding the clutch, using the clutch on hills instead of the e-brake, popping the clutch off the line, and general poor driving like that are going to do way more damage to a clutch than driving it correctly.
The above is just my opinion... you guys drive however you'd like.
>>I've never in my life heard of the "heel/toe" method. It sounds needlessly complicated to me. Why don't you just take your foot off of the brake and put it on the gas?
Because:
a) you'll want to be in the lower gear on corner exit (and continue to trail brake if you're a damn good driver and want to fully fill the friction circle... I'm not there) and
b) if you take the time to accuate one pedal at a time then the guy/girl that can heel/toe efficiently just passed you.
In short... heel/toe is great on the track and it's o.k. to practice on the street since you're nowhere neer the same limits of the car if you're driving legally.
-dq
Because:
a) you'll want to be in the lower gear on corner exit (and continue to trail brake if you're a damn good driver and want to fully fill the friction circle... I'm not there) and
b) if you take the time to accuate one pedal at a time then the guy/girl that can heel/toe efficiently just passed you.
In short... heel/toe is great on the track and it's o.k. to practice on the street since you're nowhere neer the same limits of the car if you're driving legally.
-dq
Oooh, so it's a racing thing. Okay. That wasn't clear from what the other guy said. That stuff about using it on a hill to avoid rolling backward just made me cringe at the thought of someone "feathering" the clutch to avoid drifting.
I'm still not clear on how this is going to help through a curve. Could you point me to some information on it? I'd like to read up.
I'm still not clear on how this is going to help through a curve. Could you point me to some information on it? I'd like to read up.
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>>I've never in my life heard of the "heel/toe" method. It sounds needlessly complicated to me. Why don't you just take your foot off of the brake and put it on the gas?
>>
Heel and toeing lets you continue braking while getting the transmission into a lower gear, and the engine revs up, so you're ready to accelerate sharply.
We don't have the MINI yet, so I'm not sure of the pedal configuration, but in my MGBs the pedals are close enough to brake with the toes/ball of my foot and twist my foot slightly to blip the gas with the side of my foot.
When you do it right you match the engine revs to the tranny speed in the lower gear and there's no lurching when you let the clutch out.
>>
Heel and toeing lets you continue braking while getting the transmission into a lower gear, and the engine revs up, so you're ready to accelerate sharply.
We don't have the MINI yet, so I'm not sure of the pedal configuration, but in my MGBs the pedals are close enough to brake with the toes/ball of my foot and twist my foot slightly to blip the gas with the side of my foot.
When you do it right you match the engine revs to the tranny speed in the lower gear and there's no lurching when you let the clutch out.
>>>>I've never in my life heard of the "heel/toe" method. It sounds needlessly complicated to me. Why don't you just take your foot off of the brake and put it on the gas?
>>>>
>>
>>Heel and toeing lets you continue braking while getting the transmission into a lower gear, and the engine revs up, so you're ready to accelerate sharply.
>>We don't have the MINI yet, so I'm not sure of the pedal configuration, but in my MGBs the pedals are close enough to brake with the toes/ball of my foot and twist my foot slightly to blip the gas with the side of my foot.
>>When you do it right you match the engine revs to the tranny speed in the lower gear and there's no lurching when you let the clutch out.
The MINI (at least the S) drives very much like the MGB. Heel and Toe works especially well with the Getrag trany if you double clutch on the down shift. By the way I have driven my street cars (including collectibles) this way for years, and I experience very little clutch plate wear...However, I do not 'slip' the clutch very often, it is either in or out. I've had several MGBs over the years, it's an all time favorite of mine.
>>>>
>>
>>Heel and toeing lets you continue braking while getting the transmission into a lower gear, and the engine revs up, so you're ready to accelerate sharply.
>>We don't have the MINI yet, so I'm not sure of the pedal configuration, but in my MGBs the pedals are close enough to brake with the toes/ball of my foot and twist my foot slightly to blip the gas with the side of my foot.
>>When you do it right you match the engine revs to the tranny speed in the lower gear and there's no lurching when you let the clutch out.
The MINI (at least the S) drives very much like the MGB. Heel and Toe works especially well with the Getrag trany if you double clutch on the down shift. By the way I have driven my street cars (including collectibles) this way for years, and I experience very little clutch plate wear...However, I do not 'slip' the clutch very often, it is either in or out. I've had several MGBs over the years, it's an all time favorite of mine.
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