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You can make another big step up with the addition of a big front sway bar... A car that wants to step out in the rear is not a well balanced car, and it is not faster through the corners. And, no it will not cause the car to understeer more. One of the thinks it will do is to reduce body roll of the car in corners. An body roll that a MINI has in a corner reduces any negative camber that has been dialed. 2 deg of body roll on your car will result in your car having +0.5 deg of camber on the side of the car that is trying to keep you on the track and causes more understeer. If you are able to reduce the body roll by even a half deg, you have improved the front camber and reduced the understeer... So, while you will hear that a larger front sway bar will increase understeer, in a MINI or other car with a strut suspension, it will actually help reduce understeer. I have built a MINI just like yours and my current one. Guess which one handles better...
I have been thinking about this bigger front sway bar and I like what you are saying. What gets me... is pulling down the front sub frame. Again. That was a big job (for me) and I'm not really looking forward to doing it any time soon. I'm also waffling on a good set of coilovers this winter.
Hmmmmmm
I have signed up for one more track day this fall back out at ORP. I really think the car set up is the best it's been and my time is such that I'm just going to leave it as is.
And since I'm keeping track... here are my hot tire pressures (couple minutes after cool down lap) at ORP running clockwise. More even than PIR.
LF 36 37
RF 36 37
LR 35 36
RR 34 35
Finally got tired of looking at the cracked front driving lights. Got some new LED style to match the rear. (I kinda sway back and forth between keeping it stock or making the mini a little more modern)
nd-photo.nl I think I saw yours at some point and when I started looking for replacements....the halo/ring version popped out at me.
Eventually I will probably put brake ducts in place of my fog lights. Not a race car just yet.
Mine are Vinstar... nicely made with 4 orange LEDs in the middle for the turn signal. No wires were cut so I can go back to the stock light if I ever want to.
I have been thinking about this bigger front sway bar and I like what you are saying. What gets me... is pulling down the front sub frame. Again. That was a big job (for me) and I'm not really looking forward to doing it any time soon. I'm also waffling on a good set of coilovers this winter.
Hmmmmmm
I have signed up for one more track day this fall back out at ORP. I really think the car set up is the best it's been and my time is such that I'm just going to leave it as is.
And since I'm keeping track... here are my hot tire pressures (couple minutes after cool down lap) at ORP running clockwise. More even than PIR.
LF 36 37
RF 36 37
LR 35 36
RR 34 35
Couple more pictures from July at ORP.
Great pictures!
A larger sway bar is all about increasing the roll stiffness of the car. This is what a swaybar is designed to do. So that makes them the best option for achieving this. When building up a car for the track, this provides the best option.
Another way to increase roll stiffness is to install stiffer springs. While this may not be as effective as a swaybar, it may be an option for you. That is, install stiffer front springs. Problem is, as far as I know, spring rates are none existent for aftermarket replacement springs that are OEM spring replacements...
This leaves the MINI OEM springs. While rates are not known, it is known that the rates increase from the Base Cooper up to the optional JCW red springs. You could see about getting a front pair of the JCW black springs or better yet a pair of the optional red springs and ditch the front and rear FSDs (not a fan of these for the track, not enough control) and replace them with a set of Koni yellow adjustable shocks. With adjustable shocks, you dial in more front stiffness, which, along with the stiffer front springs, can be made to mimic a larger front sway bar...
A third option is a set of Ohlins coilovers. I pick the Ohlins as I have worked with them and know what they can do and they are moderately priced. Other coilovers don’t advertise their spring rates, so you would not be sure of what you are getting. These are also bottom adjustable. Others are top adjustable, which means the rears would have to be removed to adjust them. Unfortunately the Koni Yellows are top adjustable.
Eddie07S Your post has not gone un-noticed... I've been thinking about it but I have become sidetracked with a couple other mods.
POWER Right now I have: Cravenspeed 15% pully NKG spark plugs (one colder) 4285 BKR7EQUP DDMWorks Cool Air Intake with foam filter Miltek cat back exhaust ATI Super Dampener
Next step:
380cc injectors PC laptop, software and OBDII cables. Tune with Adriancl
I did some research on adding an aftermarket 4-2-1 header to this project but I think I'm going to hold off for couple of reasons. 1) I want to make sure I can pass emissions here in OR 2) New Header with the stock CAT is a bigger project that I want right now 3) If I want to go back to the stock OEM tune and pull a few of the mods off I still can (once the CAT is welded to the new header, I might be past the point of no return) 4) I want to make smaller changes to feel the difference.
It will be interesting to see what you get with the tune.
I know that tuning an engine is a lot of fun. Tune, see what you get, header (4-2-1 is a good choice), retune, see what you get. The feedback is immediate and the car feels more alive which is a great feeling. Back in the day that is what I did, but it was all in the engine, no computers. I thought that was a good way to be fast around a track, until I started tracking my car and getting serious about watching races. Lime Rock Park is a short, 1.5 mile track. A well prepped, 110-ish HP Miata in the right hands will turn lap times that are on par with a GT3 Porsche in slightly less capable hands. Just sayin’...
I have never liked the spoiler on the r53 S, but I couldn't bring myself to drop $800 iso for the Orranje GP wing.
I've been keeping a look out for a used one here in the states but they are hard to come by. DING.... found one up is Seattle and had my buddy go grab it for me.
Here's my docu on the GP Wing with a few links to great info and YouTube videos.
Instal video
From what I can tell (I don't have the wing yet, it's still in Seattle) The vertical trim pieces are going to be really close to rubbing on the wing side supports. I decided to remove them and see how I like the the "no trim" look. They have some foam tape/3M tape on the back side. Hair dryer, little wedges, long zacto blade and off they come.
Vertical trim piece.
Sticky tape.
Cut with a zacto and then scrape it off with a razor blade.
Much cleaner lines but I can kinda see the red through the gap. We'll see when we get the side supports in.
With the R53 you need to remove the spoiler in order to fit the GP wing on. Here's a video on how to remove the OEM spoiler.
10mm nuts on the inside of the hatch.
Couple notes if you don't want to scratch up the paint under the spoiler.
Don't use wire, use fishing line.
Heat helps, I used a hairdryer.
Painters tape around the wing is great for protecting the paint as you jam the wedges in.
As you pull the fishing line back and forth the line almost heats up the VHB tape and cuts better... make lots of pulls with less pressure.
Here is where all the tape is on the back side.
Paint is still in great condition....
Because there are 2 holes left in the top of the hatch, you have some choices to make.
1) Patch and Paint.
2) Find a r50 spoiler to put on. (more info on this below)
3) Cover the holes with something. (There used to be some little GP wings but they are no longer available)
I don't want to patch and paint the holes. So that leaves some sort of covers or the R50 spoiler.
I think I'm going to try little shark fins first. I can us 3M tape to stick them on and with the little rubber gasket on the inside and drain holes in the bottom of the hatch any water that may sneak in will drain out the bottom. Maybe paint them red?
The GP fins are no longer available. But I'm going to try and fabricate or find something similar. Any suggestions are welcome.
I've been busy with work and forgot I purchased some 380 injectors on Amazon about 3 weeks ago, turns out they came all the way from Germany. I would assume coming all the way from Germany they would not be counterfeit, but I have read about knock-offs so I figured I would follow through with checking them. Hopefully this can help someone else out there.
There's a couple different ways to check.
1) The QR code on the boxes. Just scan it and a confirmation comes back right on your phone browser.
2) Go to www.protect.bosch.com & key in the 18 letters/numbers printed on each box.
You'll get a confirmation just like this.
The R50 "spoiler," to the best of my knowledge was added there to just clean up the air coming off the top of the car - and to make it look more sporty! Sort of like the way pick-up trucks have that wide top to the tail gates. I am certain it was 100% non-functional as far as down force is concerned; though I really loved the look when I had my R50 - yeah, I sold it..... I do miss it though and the coworker that I sold it too keeps sending me updates of his ownership of it - the first one was a short video of the motor making an unholy clatter; the second after a truck with a tow hitch backed into the rear hatch. It just makes me sad. ANYWAY...... That being said...... The R50 spoiler might actually assist with the fully functional (as I was told) GP wing.... You may have stumbled into something here.
I now know that my RF can be driven on track without an after market roll bar with Track Night in America and Hooked On Driving. I may see you out at ORP or PIR next season.
November of 2019 I installed an oil catch can and at the same time I cleaned the inside of the IC. Well, I had the IC off today and here's the inside after almost 2 years and 4 track days.
Couple notes:
The OEM O-rings can be purchased for cheap and put on the injectors. (BTW these are not the JCW injectors... I think they are Audi TT injectors but I've been told they will work with r53 injector O-rings)
The O-rings that come on the Bosch injectors look very close to the same but I changed them out just to be safe. The top and bottom O-rings are the same so you'll need 8 total.
The 380 injectors are a little shorter than the OEM 320 injectors. But the O-ring seems to be at about the same distance from the fuel rail so it should still seat in the intake manifold. Again I'm a noob here and just noting my observations, please chime in and correct me where I go off track.
After installing, I let the fuel pump run a couple of times and then it started right up. No codes... just ran a smooth as ever.
November of 2019 I installed an oil catch can and at the same time I cleaned the inside of the IC. Well, I had the IC off today and here's the inside after almost 2 years and 4 track days.
Where did you get your injectors? I got the kit from ECS and they were longer and black in color. I have the converter plugged on the connectors in the picture. I ended up not using them as they put the wires in contact with the intercooler. I ended up modifying my harness, but I think I saw a kit that used a wire between the two plugs that might resolve that issue.
November of 2019 I installed an oil catch can and at the same time I cleaned the inside of the IC. Well, I had the IC off today and here's the inside after almost 2 years and 4 track days.
I would say that's a win.
that does look GOOD. What catch can and routing did u use?
Where did you get your injectors? I got the kit from ECS and they were longer and black in color. I have the converter plugged on the connectors in the picture. I ended up not using them as they put the wires in contact with the intercooler. I ended up modifying my harness, but I think I saw a kit that used a wire between the two plugs that might resolve that issue.
I purchased them from Amazon ( directly from Bosch) It took about 10 days for them to get here but I did not want to deal with switching the wiring and these have been used by other guys here on NAM & recommended by Adrian.
Bosch injectors 0280156063 $45 per (more info on these about 4 posts back)
that does look GOOD. What catch can and routing did u use?
I put the catch can back by the brake lines, cut a hole through the plastic and tried to keep it cool. I want to go back and take the 90 degree junction out so it has cleaner look and more direct flow but haven't got around to it.
I put the catch can back by the brake lines, cut a hole through the plastic and tried to keep it cool. I want to go back and take the 90 degree junction out so it has cleaner look and more direct flow but haven't got around to it.
I have the same Bosch (Audi TT) injectors and can confirm they work fine with the Bosch o-rings too. The OD was identical as far as I could measure. Been running them for over a year now and a full AX season without issue.
Eddie07S Your post has not gone un-noticed... I've been thinking about it but I have become sidetracked with a couple other mods.
POWER Right now I have: Cravenspeed 15% pully NKG spark plugs (one colder) 4285 BKR7EQUP DDMWorks Cool Air Intake with foam filter Miltek cat back exhaust ATI Super Dampener
Next step:
380cc injectors PC laptop, software and OBDII cables. Tune with Adriancl
I did some research on adding an aftermarket 4-2-1 header to this project but I think I'm going to hold off for couple of reasons. 1) I want to make sure I can pass emissions here in OR 2) New Header with the stock CAT is a bigger project that I want right now 3) If I want to go back to the stock OEM tune and pull a few of the mods off I still can (once the CAT is welded to the new header, I might be past the point of no return) 4) I want to make smaller changes to feel the difference.
Have you looked at the RMW shorty header w/CAT? A few years back when I was looking into building out my R50; Jan said that his headers with the CAT's are actually 50 state approved - that seems to have changed, at least as far as California is concerned. I think that they would pass Oregon's emissions tests; at least that is what he told me in 2018. The header and CAT seem to be reasonably priced. http://store-revolutionmini-com.3dca...ting_p_94.html
Nice progress!
I have the same Bosch (Audi TT) injectors and can confirm they work fine with the Bosch o-rings too. The OD was identical as far as I could measure. Been running them for over a year now and a full AX season without issue.
Have you looked at the RMW shorty header w/CAT? A few years back when I was looking into building out my R50; Jan said that his headers with the CAT's are actually 50 state approved - that seems to have changed, at least as far as California is concerned. I think that they would pass Oregon's emissions tests; at least that is what he told me in 2018. The header and CAT seem to be reasonably priced. http://store-revolutionmini-com.3dca...ting_p_94.html
I have not looked at the RMW shorty header.... There have been mixed feelings regarding Jan here and I have some hesitation with purchasing anything from RMW.
I have put the Header on hold for now anyway. I received a tune from Adriancl last week and I'm going to put up some more details here shortly. (after I've driven the car a few more times)
My latest wild goose chase is an AF gauge that includes both wideband to monitor and narrowband for the ECU. I saw Mod Mini put one in his car in his blown engine series. I'm not up for re-wiring but I like the idea of both narrow and wide in one plug. (so I don't have to get another bung welded in my stock header). Going to research this a little more.
Shows the Innovate kit at 2:00 here.
UPDATE: https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc2.php
I have no idea what any of this means but I did find the LC-1 and the LC-2 controllers on the Innovate website. $200 for just the LC-2 controller. Hmmmmmm
Confession. I'm throwing these photos up for feedback, I really have no experience here and lots of questions.
While I had the IC and injectors out, I took a look down the holes. Intake valves first:
Look pretty good to me????? But I really don't know what to look for.
Pistons next:
Soooo what is the gold/ orange colored stuff? Too much heat right at the valves? Is the build up around the edges of the pistons bad?
What am I looking at here and should I be concerned?
Thanks in advance.
