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Squeaking from front left wheel after rim installation!?
I put some 18" HD Tuning Hi Speed rims on my R53 about a month ago. Almost immediately, I noticed a squeaking (sounds like the brake squeaker). But my pads are almost 50%. I've also noticed more vibration than normal in the steering wheel, roads are horrible in SC! Any idea on how I can narrow down the problem?
That slotted head screw looks to be above the level of the disc/rotor. It should not be casting a shadow, because it should be below the face of the disc/rotor. If it is above, your wheel is not seated flat against the rotor. Get the proper Torx screw.
That slotted head screw looks to be above the level of the disc/rotor. It should not be casting a shadow, because it should be below the face of the disc/rotor. If it is above, your wheel is not seated flat against the rotor. Get the proper Torx screw.
THIS.....
Your rim is not seating flat to the rotor, which is causing the wheel to wobble, the squeak could be the rim shimmying on the lugs. You might could get away with grinding the head of that screw flush to the rotor but I'd just replace it. I can't imagine it's that expensive.
Again, check the slotted bolt head. It should be flushed or sunken. If it is ok, try going back to stock bolts. Your lugs may be too long for closed nuts, perhaps?
Also, is the large axle nut tight? I noticed that the small lip/flange on the nut is not staked into the slot on the axle. This prevents the nut from "walking" off.
If it is ok, try going back to stock bolts. Your lugs may be too long for closed nuts, perhaps?
I'm not exactly with ya here. How would I be able to back to stock bolts. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to. They seem a hell of a lot more secure, but they're just too big for the rims... Or am I missing something?
Make sure that the nut is torqued to correct setting (134ft/lbs I think, but don't quote me on that), and then use a punch to stake the small flange into the groove. Always use the correct Torx screw to hold the rotor. Both items are easily available from any of the vendors on this site, (ECS, Pelican, WMW, Mini Mania).
that rotor bolt is actually superfluous ... you don't need it
Its only purpose is to hold the rotor in place as the wheel is attached, it provides no "strength" ... a properly tightened wheel holds the rotor in place WAY better than this lil bolt will!
SO .... take the imposter out and see if the problem goes away, it could be preventing the wheel from sitting flat to the hub .... you can replace it later with the proper bolt (which has a flat head and is a TORX btw so we KNOW this one is fubar)
And I'm sure you put 2 and 2 together and realize that the prior owner at least pulled the hub if not replaced it .... cuz I doubt a reputable mech (even a dealer) would fail to dimple / stake the lock . . .
Also, is the large axle nut tight? I noticed that the small lip/flange on the nut is not staked into the slot on the axle. This prevents the nut from "walking" off.
Yep, You can get a new one and then when tight, tap it with a wedge or small chisel to bend the lip back.
OK. Thanks guys. I love you all! Took the wheel off, ground that flat head screw flush... Test drove....
And voilà! NO MORE SQUEAKS or SQUEALS!
Also, I tried tightening the axle nut... I maybe tightened it 1/8th of a turn. Got a new one on the way anyways, I jumped the gun on buying that one.
As for the rotor screws, turns out I have 4 CORRECT screws on my R50 parts car. So I'll just steal one from Coopa. It's a Torx T47 size I believe it was.
Getting that screw out though, it's going to be a task I'll try and tackle this weekend. I need to cut a groove in it to catch more meat with the screwdriver.
Hey, I'm super happy that the squeaking is gone, along with all steering wheel vibration! I forgot to tell you about the vibration, it was pretty tiring and intense.
Problems solved! Love you MINIACS!
Thanks fellas 100 times over!
Last edited by Andrew Riley; Jul 18, 2016 at 07:30 PM.
Reason: Typo
I'm not exactly with ya here. How would I be able to back to stock bolts. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to. They seem a hell of a lot more secure, but they're just too big for the rims... Or am I missing something?
They make tuner style lug bolts that use a key to work with aftermarket rims with smaller holes.
