Specially the last picture lol it like a 3sum with seat/harness/Steering wheel. Monday it will turn into an orgy when the Seat brackets/Sliders and seat frame come in lol. Going to test fit the Passenger side to make sure everything works and when i know the combination then ill order for the drivers side. Also i think by the end of next week my AutoPower Roll cage should be here since i paid the do it now price.

I was trying to order the oil Baffle from Mini Mania, but they are trying to charge a ridiculous $35 for shipping. I Offer them a shipping label for the item which came out to $14 and even sent it to them and haven't heard from then yet. Don't know if they are trying to make little extra with the crazy shipping, but i would just look better if they just increase the price of the item instead of charging unrealistic shipping charges. Even if they use Marta Stewart Packaging materials it would cost the much .

 

I have 15" fronts, 949racing so I doubt the R56 JCW front brakes will fit

 

Yah they wont. I had 15 also does are the once you see in the first picture when i was getting the car hand washed. If you are on a budget try the R53 JCW brake which are just R56 front brakes. you can find them on eBay for like $100 for caliper and bracket. You will need Lines and while you are at it i would get SS lines.

Aren't you the same guy that was asking about carbotech pads and i suggested the Yellowstuff?

 

already have them ordered yeah I'm shopping brake pads too you linked me to this thread

 

What you have on order the brake calipers, SS lines or the pads?

 

R56S front calipers, I have not ordered pads or lines yet was about to order ECS stainless fronts

 

Personally any SS lines are good, as long as they meet DOT standards. I'm not a brand type of person to be honest, I normally go for quality and i think I'm good at spotting the BS in products and just because something cost more doesn't mean it better.

At this Track day you see in the videos, i was running Valvoline DOT4 Brake fluid from Autozone (cost me $6 or $7 1L). I wanted to test and see if the Motul RBF 660 $25 bottle would be any difference and i didn't see any difference at all, no brake fade, not feeling like this got too hot nothing. I waisted so much money on that RBF on my other car you wouldn't imagine. When checking temps on the fluid it was handling like a champ. Don't get tricked by the synthetic branding on brake fluid, All brake fluids are synthetic.

I personally prefer to use affordable brake fluid and just change them every track day, same goes for Oil. I use T6 5w40 and just change it maybe a day or two before the track (only use if you have no Cat as this will kill your cat). I keep the oil filter for the duration of the oil interval 7.5k. With my other car i spend about $200-$300 oil testing to see which one was the best and avoided the oil wars that come up on forums. Recommend what i thought was best with proof not just what someones daddy thought is the best, since they have been using x brand since the 70's LOL.

Most of this products are over priced and most of the time all you are getting is the some rebrand stuff with a bigger price tag. When you check the MSDS most of them are made of the same thing.

With the price of Motul i can go to the track about 4 time with brand new fluid. Motul can be the best based on price for people, but nothing beats fresh brake fluid.

 

I've used t6 many years in everything, 100k miles in a Jeep and 125k in our f150 still no cat damage

Ate type 200 brake fluid cheap and good

 

The 6 point roll cage comes in Monday, so I stated to strip the interior. Test fitted the seat. The Planted unit i got for the passenger side was bent. So just used it to test fit in the car.

Going to the track tomorrow to push the car. If it makes it (crossing fingers) then we will be in business. Tomorrow is set to reach 100f and i plan on pushing the car to see what it had. Already picked where i will be going to go hard on the brakes since there is a pretty big run off. hope everything works out. I guess i will be fighting to stay in the seat again.





Patiently Waiting to be installed



Stripping stated

Took out all the seat belt components. If the car makes it from tomorrows track day i will take out the curtain Air bags.







So future Mods after this will be
Innovate AFR/BOOST/SHIFT LIGHT gauge
Innovate oil/temp Gauge

Going to test this on the track tomorrow.

SkyPro XGPS160
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Track was great. Car took it like a champ. PWC cars came back and one of the guy really pushing hard. He was trying to stay in front of me, but just couldn't

My favorite session


Casualty of the day was my windshield getting a chip/crack




Roll Cage came in today put it together to make sure very thing is there.









Ordered a new tank since the stock cap sucks. want to use a regular rad cap

 

who's cage did you go with? I use the xgps160 too works pretty good but I've not found a good way to data log the ecu yet, the obd2 port is too slow to be of any use

 

I went with AutoPower Industries. I was originally going to with SneedSpeed 4 point, but there shipping made it almost $800 and auto power was only $300 more with shipping and it was a 6 point with the option to weld in the door bars which I'm still undecided If i will do.

Data logging is not as fast as other car i have owned. I Like having the Data in my Videos, but i think next time i will be just using Torque to data log. Hopefully next time i go on track i will have my AFR/Boost and Oil Temp/Pressure Gauges installed. Even when I'm looking at things live on the phone in Torque everything gets updated so slow. While using HLT, i kept getting the warning that the OBD2 refresh was slower then expected. If you look at some of the other videos you will see it a little slow. I wonder if there is a way to tap into the ECU and get things directly, but I'm going to assume you will need to know the voltages ect for all the sensors and patience with the wiring.

 

yes tap the canbus line, some of the more expensive data loggers do this, the data has to be decrypted it's not odb

 

Your data logging on Harry's seems to be plenty fast.

 

it has a delay like mine, the throttle/rpm is way slow, some of that can be fixed adjusting the timing in harries laptimer but it's still only 1-2 updates per second vs 10 per second for the gps with the xgps160 like I use.

I was going to buy bracing but I think I'm gonna go with a cage first, sneed4speed is local I'm hoping I can avoid the shipping fee

 

I was not looking at the delay. Good point

Harry's reads my ODBII reader at 2hz. Not even up to the 5hz Dual I have. Problem is that I don't want to give up the ScanGage. You can't do both. Dilemma, dilemma.

 

I found a guy on bimmerfest that can make a canbus to odb2 adapter so you could run 2 odb2 adapters.

I Need to email him, I think I'm gonna go ahead and have him buidl one

 

Let us know how it goes

 

Yah let us know i would be interested. Like Always "Money to better ratio" LOL.

 

Got the new Coolant tank with a proper Rad Cap. Hopefully everything works out. Not much of a fan of the barb brass fittings, but lets hope it holds up.







HOPEFULLY it Cures this

 

Mine did that first time at a track, keep it low end of range now,. Well it puked down to low lol

 

?

I don't understand what you are trying to say

 

At least the fittings are screwed, so there's always the option of replacing them with normal fittings.

 

I thought you changed out the coolant expansion tank because it was puking coolant all over ?

maybe I missunderstood the picture

 

Yah i did. It was the cap after all. Here is what the cap looks like after i took it off and it makes sense how much was coming out. I guess i kept making it tighter and tighter, because it was coming out until it got to this point.


It spilled all over the engine bay. I washed the engine and i used mean green and it made all my nice shiny aluminum things white (a little mad at myself, but it done already).
for got to take picture of the after






So tried to installed the Steering wheels, but couldn't get the horn to work. I can cut the connector of the stock wheel, but trying to avoid doing this. Any one has any ideas. help