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Hello all. I got my first Mini about a month or so ago and have quickly fallen in love with it. It's a 2006 R53 Mini Cooper S. The issue I have is that in the past couple of days I've had a rattle coming from the engine. There's no drop in power or anything that I can feel just the rattle. I've posted a video on YouTube to see if I can get any help from someone who has more experience than me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.https://youtu.be/-OhiCngDgrQ
It's most likely the timing chain tensioner (an easy and inexpensive fix), but it could also be the supercharger, a not so easy, and expensive fix...
Does the rattle go away as the engine warms up? Oftentimes, the timing chain tensioner rattles when the engine is cold, but settles down as it comes to temperature.
Check out this video to see if there are similarities to what you're hearing, and how to fix it.
The supercharger would produce a constant rattle, irregardless of the engine being cold or warmed up.
Another thing to check would be the serpentine belt tensioner under the top passenger-side engine mount. With the engine running, you would see/hear it chattering if it's on its way out.
Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; Oct 11, 2015 at 11:55 AM.
The oil level seemed to be fine. That was the first thing I checked. I just got it changed not too long ago and it's still about 1000 miles from the 3000 mile change point. The rattle seems to go away when it gets to about 1800 - 2000 RPM and yesterday when I started it up it didn't even do it. I'll check the videos out here in a little bit as I'm at work and can't look at it just yet. Thanks for the help.
That tensioner is a common culprit. If it has gone on for a while, you may also have to look at your timing chain guides.
Thought I had the death rattle 3 months ago, and actually the rattle was exactly what Helix said. So I bought a new tensioner and added powerflex bushings so that should not need to be replaced again.
I thought it was the timing chain tensioner first as well, so at the same time I replaced Chain, guide, rails, sprocket, and tensioner all at the same time.
So I'm second guessing myself about the oil level now. The level is in the middle to lower middle of the dipstick and I guess I have the older style with the loop and single bulbed tip.
Would it hurt anything to add a quart and see what happens?
Your belt tensioner has a small black hydraulic "shock" that looks like a boot or hood support. It has a plastic bushing at either end that tends to dry out, crack, separate and fall out over time. When that happens the metal ends of the small shock rattle against the retaining bolts at either or both ends. If that's the problem it's a $25 fix and access is easy through the passenger side wheel well (remove the plastic liner).
Just abit of info : I know old thread but still.....
check the purge valve next to the passenger side intercooler horn , ive had 2x actually begin clicking almost knocking they were so loud.. yes , 2x of mine have done that now and the 1st time I feared the worst and actually ordered a complete timing repair kit and all it turned out to be was a stupid loud purge valve that must have been failing...
these purge valves can get pretty noisy on these engines , you'll hear them usually start working about 1min after starting the engine..lololol I contemplated relocating mine so it didn't give the clicky noise at idle , even when fully functioning correctly they're still imo very audible.
Just abit of info : I know old thread but still.....
check the purge valve next to the passenger side intercooler horn , ive had 2x actually begin clicking almost knocking they were so loud.. yes , 2x of mine have done that now and the 1st time I feared the worst and actually ordered a complete timing repair kit and all it turned out to be was a stupid loud purge valve that must have been failing...
these purge valves can get pretty noisy on these engines , you'll hear them usually start working about 1min after starting the engine..lololol I contemplated relocating mine so it didn't give the clicky noise at idle , even when fully functioning correctly they're still imo very audible.
Can you send a pic of the location of the purge valve? Thanks!
