R50/53 my car heats up after 30 mins
#1
08-03-2013, 09:32 AM
my car heats up after 30 mins
My fan comes on and drives perfect but after 30 mins the coolant overheating lamp goes on. Also how can I get into the service menu and see the temperarure in real time. I have a 2003 Copper s. Dual gauges with navigation. No temp meter. Please help. Thank you
#3
08-03-2013, 10:37 AM
I'm kind of new to Mini. But in my research I found that the supercharger is connected to the water pump, and if the gears get worn out, it will not turn the water pump enough to keep the motor cool.
Or, maybe your thermostat. When your car is warmed up, give the hoses to the radiator a squeeze. If they feel empty, your thermostat isn't opening to let coolant flow into your radiator.
Just a few things to think about
Or, maybe your thermostat. When your car is warmed up, give the hoses to the radiator a squeeze. If they feel empty, your thermostat isn't opening to let coolant flow into your radiator.
Just a few things to think about
#5
08-03-2013, 03:06 PM
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Sounds like you have coolant flowing. Could just be a defective warning light. Another cause of overheating could be a blown head gasket.
#7
08-03-2013, 03:27 PM
Is that 30 minutes driving, or 30 minutes at idle?Wondering if the air flow makes a difference.
Is your fan coming on?
When you turn on AC, does that make the cooling fan behind the radiator cycle on and off?
Just thinking of things to eliminate as problem.
Engine oil full?
You said coolant was full, but did you have to add any recently? Any white smoke (steam) from exhaust pipe? Any milky film on the underside of oil fill cap? Cap holding pressure?
Sorry, don't know to tell you how to get real time temp display -that would be helpful. Maybe thermostat isn't opening at correct temp anymore.
Edit: oh I see you said fan works. If no leaks, no bad head gasket, then I'd suspect the thermostat.
Is your fan coming on?
When you turn on AC, does that make the cooling fan behind the radiator cycle on and off?
Just thinking of things to eliminate as problem.
Engine oil full?
You said coolant was full, but did you have to add any recently? Any white smoke (steam) from exhaust pipe? Any milky film on the underside of oil fill cap? Cap holding pressure?
Sorry, don't know to tell you how to get real time temp display -that would be helpful. Maybe thermostat isn't opening at correct temp anymore.
Edit: oh I see you said fan works. If no leaks, no bad head gasket, then I'd suspect the thermostat.
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#8
08-03-2013, 03:35 PM
Looks like temp read is #7. Hope it might help.
How to Reset the ECU:
With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19) The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements.
Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.
Here is a list of all the tests on your MINI:
1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calendar week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injector status, Cylinder count, Engine factor.
2.0 Comb system Test
3.0 Service interval counter
4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.
5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.
6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel gauge.
1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal implausible (no reading)
7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed
8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3
9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)
10.0 Land codes
11.0 Unit codes
12.0 No function
13.0 Gong test
14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures
15.0 - 18.0 No function
19.0 On/Off for Test menu.
20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.
20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. For consumption factor
20.3 saves the new consumption factor and shows new value
21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)
With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19) The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements.
Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.
Here is a list of all the tests on your MINI:
1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calendar week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injector status, Cylinder count, Engine factor.
2.0 Comb system Test
3.0 Service interval counter
4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.
5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.
6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel gauge.
1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal implausible (no reading)
7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed
8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3
9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)
10.0 Land codes
11.0 Unit codes
12.0 No function
13.0 Gong test
14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures
15.0 - 18.0 No function
19.0 On/Off for Test menu.
20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.
20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. For consumption factor
20.3 saves the new consumption factor and shows new value
21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)
#11
08-03-2013, 05:02 PM
To get the temp read, I think you'll need to go to #19, to open the other menu.
Once there #21 is reset if you choose
Or #7 is coolant temp reading.
Edit: just begin to follow instructions for reset, but at the last step, choose #7 instead of #21
-hope that makes sense.
#13
08-03-2013, 05:31 PM
#15
08-04-2013, 12:48 PM
I tried the temp readout yesterday. I found mostly 91 degrees, would go up to 93 degrees, back down to 90, etc. I looked up a Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion, this is 195F to 199F -so that would give an idea of what normal should be at 60 mph in 80 degree weather.
Anyway, wanted to let you know, you're not missing out on much by not having the temp guage. I have the Chrono gauges, and they didn't move at all -always just showed the needle straight up (normal).
Checking the lower hose is a good tip, I had not thought about that.
Anyway, wanted to let you know, you're not missing out on much by not having the temp guage. I have the Chrono gauges, and they didn't move at all -always just showed the needle straight up (normal).
Checking the lower hose is a good tip, I had not thought about that.
#17
12-11-2023, 09:31 AM
2nd Gear
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