R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Dont know what do next, please help.

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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 02:37 PM
  #1  
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jcwswede
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Dont know what do next, please help.

Hi

Sorry if this gets long, but I will try to explain what has happend and what I have done (without no sucess ofcourse). Really greatfull for any tips.

Well it all began with a rough idle, as summer came the car sometimes even stalled.
So I began troubleshooting.
First thing I founded was this



then I found this (cracked inlet pipe)



Booth are now changed

I also replaced the sparkplugs to the right ones for jcw.
I have also fitted a new air filter and cleaned the air filterbox.

I also did reset the ECU. But that didnt help either. In fact now the car wont start at all, it just makes a clicking noise exactly as in this video
http://youtu.be/5Ta5AyX6EMs

Im not about giving up, its to fun to drive but Im out of idees.
I have three questions

1.the clicking sound and that car wont start. Do I have to change the battery now? Allthough The lights,dashboard and everything else seem to work?
2. What more to look for the idle stall? It happens every time not just from time to time. It dies directly.
3 . This threeway cable. 1 goes to airfilter, 1 goes to the bypassvalve (I hope?!) but the third?! Should it be connected to anything?






Please help.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 02:49 PM
  #2  
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Mib4840
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As for the not starting issue, these cars really like a fully charged battery. Try charging or jumping it to see if that helps. As for what appears to be a vacuum hose I'm sure it should have something attached to it but don't know what.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 02:55 PM
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ZippyNH
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The car is likliy dieing because of the vavume leak cause that hose is not plugged in....
The click on start...
Might be a battery or starter...
Charge the battery.... Either a separate charger or battery cables connected to another car for about 20 minutes or so...the thinker the cables, the longer the time...
The battery might be toast...lots of starts, some heat, etc...but unless you yank it out and test it (usually free) you will not know.... Batteries loose capicty as they age, and some willnlosse their charge just sitting due to a short circuit....
A clicking starter is usually due to a weak battery, or lack of ampage to make it turn the motor over...but burnt out windings from wear, etc can do it too...
 
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 02:57 PM
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ZippyNH
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Start the car...LOOK/listen for a hissing sound...that hose should be plugged in to a vac source...likely a hose that goes to the manifold intake....
 
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 05:31 AM
  #5  
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jcwswede
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Thank you all for the quick input!
I think I will buy a new battery (I think its getting pretty Old) Will also try to start it with another car though.

Cant find out were the third cable should be. Im gonna post a separate thread about it. It might help someone in the future if it gets solved.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 11:48 AM
  #6  
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Before doing anything drastic like replacing your starter or looking at your fuel injection ECU, you should make sure that your battery is in good condition. The battery is perhaps the most important electrical component on the car, and due to its design and nature, is perhaps one of the most troublesome. So, yes try that out first and then go from there. If you need help with its replacement or more info on it you can follow these tech article here. Keep us updated and let us know if changing it makes a difference!
 
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 12:51 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by jcwswede
Hi

Sorry if this gets long, but I will try to explain what has happend and what I have done (without no sucess ofcourse). Really greatfull for any tips.

Well it all began with a rough idle, as summer came the car sometimes even stalled.
So I began troubleshooting.
First thing I founded was this



then I found this (cracked inlet pipe)



Booth are now changed

I also replaced the sparkplugs to the right ones for jcw.
I have also fitted a new air filter and cleaned the air filterbox.

I also did reset the ECU. But that didnt help either. In fact now the car wont start at all, it just makes a clicking noise exactly as in this video
http://youtu.be/5Ta5AyX6EMs

Im not about giving up, its to fun to drive but Im out of idees.
I have three questions

1.the clicking sound and that car wont start. Do I have to change the battery now? Allthough The lights,dashboard and everything else seem to work?
2. What more to look for the idle stall? It happens every time not just from time to time. It dies directly.
3 . This threeway cable. 1 goes to airfilter, 1 goes to the bypassvalve (I hope?!) but the third?! Should it be connected to anything?






Please help.

1. Check the battery first and do a load test on the battery, if its weak and does not hold charge, change it.
2. If not the battery, check the starter and the braided cable between the starter and the solenoid, they corrode.


For the vaccum line , look like you have the factory JCW intake

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_1170

#27


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/13720391513/





Install guide for kit 11120395131 same as 13720391513 just with the additional JCW injectors
See install Page #3



More info on the install:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-alta-cai.html
 
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 10:49 AM
  #8  
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Very thankful for the reply. I will try to se if I can locate the third hose tonight.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 12:38 AM
  #9  
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Update
First of all. Thank you for keep on helping me out.
I found the third hose. It was "hiding" under the IC horn. It was a pain getting to.
I also got help starting the car and the battery seems to be fine again.
The engine light actually came off for a litte while too..

The idle problem though is still there
The car dies directly if Im not giving throttle. Was driving around and the car feels kinda smooth until I dont give throttle and eventually the engine light came on again....

Did an ODB2 scan with dashboard command. I get theese codes.
been googling around just to see what the codes can point to for problems.

p1689 Throttlebody, air leak
p1109 Mapsensor, Tmap, IC boots
p1242 Bypassvalve, wastegate, Mapsensor
p1237 Mapsensor, Bypassvalve
p1229 Throttlebody sensor
p0123 Throttlebody (I forgot to put the contact back first time , but after connected the code still comes)
p0222 Throttlebody ((I forgot to put the contact back first time , but after connected the code still comes)

So alot points to throttlebody, bypassvalve and the sensors I think?
Dont want to buy them all new though right away.
What would your next step be to try?

My throttlebody seems pretty clean?
Have also pushed the "thing" that opens the bypassvalve to see if I get resistance and I do (hope you understand)




Like always Im very thankful to any iddés/suggestions/help
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 09:46 AM
  #10  
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batrugger
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From: Hesperia, Ca.
You have a vacuum leak somewhere or the lines are hooked up wrong

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...242-p0300.html

http://www.*********************/for...v-install.html NAM blocks the site for this link so just type in motoring alliance.com all one word and you can see it
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 10:13 AM
  #11  
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From: Harbor City, CA
Originally Posted by jcwswede
p1689 Throttlebody, air leak
p1109 Mapsensor, Tmap, IC boots
p1242 Bypassvalve, wastegate, Mapsensor
p1237 Mapsensor, Bypassvalve
p1229 Throttlebody sensor
p0123 Throttlebody (I forgot to put the contact back first time , but after connected the code still comes)
p0222 Throttlebody ((I forgot to put the contact back first time , but after connected the code still comes)
Since you put the contact back did you clear the codes and then wait to see if/which ones come back?

Codes P1229, P1689, P1109, P1242 are discussed in this thread here. He discusses what his issue turned out to be at post #4.

Here is a thread on P1237 with their fix. Here is another one and another here (vacuum leak at his bypass valve was the culprit here.)

Hope some of these help.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 11:07 PM
  #12  
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I chased down a 1237 for awhile and it was my bypass valve. See my post here and be sure to look at the pictures in post #9 https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...p-sensors.html

Like mentioned, clear the codes and see what comes back. If you're convinced it might be MAP/TMAP related (mine wasn't but you have a few other codes so maybe), I have an extra set around now so PM me if you're interested. Funny enough, my intake boot looked exactly like yours when my troubleshooting had started and yet it seems like it was just a red herring.
 
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