R50/53 Crank Pulley - Harmonic Balancer - Replacement/Failure
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3rd Gear
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Crank Pulley - Harmonic Balancer - Replacement/Failure
This has been discussed many times before but I'm hoping to give a more detailed description of how the car runs before and after replacement. Back story; This car has 110k miles on it. It's a driver. The battery was replaced a few months ago.
The battery light went on constant. Several miles later the clock went out, the climate control started blinking and finally the power steering went out. Upon checking the charging system the problem proved to be a faulty alternator. Replaced the alternator (which is a total PIA for anyone that hasn't done it). When starting the car it was running very rough and loud. Odd as it wasn't before the previous symptoms mentioned. Got the car up on the lift and identified a broken crank pulley. The two pieces that comprise the pulley separated causing erratic behavior. My guess is from the stress of the new (tighter?) alternator and getting the belt back on. It was it's last straw.
Replacing the pulley is actually very simple and can be done by anyone with the slightest bit of mechanical inclination. Passenger wheel comes off, mud guard comes off and the pulley is right there. Getting the belt back on is tricky but not difficult if you can put some pressure on the belt tension and align it properly. Easier with a little help.
Driving the car is night and day. The power is more linear and the car runs noticeably smoother and sounds new.
If your car has miles and this hasn't been done I strongly recommend doing it. The part can be had online fairly cheap and from what I understand there are a number of aftermarket options that peaked my interest but opted to go with the stock part.
The battery light went on constant. Several miles later the clock went out, the climate control started blinking and finally the power steering went out. Upon checking the charging system the problem proved to be a faulty alternator. Replaced the alternator (which is a total PIA for anyone that hasn't done it). When starting the car it was running very rough and loud. Odd as it wasn't before the previous symptoms mentioned. Got the car up on the lift and identified a broken crank pulley. The two pieces that comprise the pulley separated causing erratic behavior. My guess is from the stress of the new (tighter?) alternator and getting the belt back on. It was it's last straw.
Replacing the pulley is actually very simple and can be done by anyone with the slightest bit of mechanical inclination. Passenger wheel comes off, mud guard comes off and the pulley is right there. Getting the belt back on is tricky but not difficult if you can put some pressure on the belt tension and align it properly. Easier with a little help.
Driving the car is night and day. The power is more linear and the car runs noticeably smoother and sounds new.
If your car has miles and this hasn't been done I strongly recommend doing it. The part can be had online fairly cheap and from what I understand there are a number of aftermarket options that peaked my interest but opted to go with the stock part.
In my case the owner hit limp mode a few times, and gave it to me. I drove it 40 miles and a few errands with nothing seemingly wrong. Fortunately I hit the AC before I returned it. As soon as I turned the AC on, that was it's last straw. Immediate limp mode repeatedly on the four mile trip home.
I was nervous about it, as years ago I saw Randy Webb have an issue when his OEM crank tool failed, but as you said, the off/on procedure was pretty simple.
I was nervous about it, as years ago I saw Randy Webb have an issue when his OEM crank tool failed, but as you said, the off/on procedure was pretty simple.
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