Crossover is set too low IMO... try putting it up to 70 hz (low pass I hope).

 

if your crossover can do it and u are using a going mid speaker, the easiest way and a great place to start is 100hzup 100hzdown from that point you can adjust to your personal taste. But most pre set crossovers ienes without dials are set at this from the factory.

 

Ok, after ~10 hours of driving I'm finally back home.

After listening to this system for a good amount of time. The bass is pretty tight it will hit hard, it will shake the rearview mirror and the rest of the car if you want it to. The key is to have a volume ****. Without it it's really hard to adjust the bass without really messing it up with the eq. Especially when you listen to different types of music.

Before I left I lowered the gain and raised the x-over to ~80hz, I may try closer to 100hz just to see what it will do. I do need to fill in the cavity on the driver side, the little door will rattle when the bass is really thumpin.

The bass EQ on the headunit is either flat or 1-2 notches down (don't remember) The crossover is a low pass on the amp so there is no crossover on the rear speakers. If I do upgrade the amp for the front/rears I will have a crossover put in.

 

I agree about the bass ****. I used to have a very simple system with a hidden bass **** and that really gave me the quick fine tuning needed to go from genre to genre and song to song. Now I have a much more expensive system and I really miss the ease of that bass ****.

 

JL audio 10W6v2 sub pioneer amp with street wires cap, hits pretty hard. just enough bass for my tasst

 

JL Audio Stealthbox and 250/1 amp installed and working. The rear seat and panels will be back in soon and a custom amp mount is in the works.

 

*sigh* dirty little devil, isn't he?

Perfectly happy when it's operating at peak, but am currently having probs (see my thread in this forum..)

Really need to dynamat the entire car though.. Maybe this spring.

 

lil somethin'

2 12" JL w3 custom painted cones
2 alpine v12 amps
1 15" flat screen
l.e.ds' all over the place
1 ps2 with wireless controllers
all in the trunk
functional back seats...unless your sittin behind me.

 

A little off the subject, but what kind of exhaust system/tips are those?

 

obx headers/magna-flo high flow cat/magna-flo cat back

 

Almost done.

 

curious...

everytime I go to a bestbuy and turn all the amps and subs on it makes me want a system in the mini =]

however... Ive been wondering. A how much do they weigh???? and are they easy to remove say before a track day exc..?

 

before you get something installed at best buy let me offer this advice

NEVER GET ANYTHING INSTALLED AT BEST BUY.
also, store bought boxes etc. arent specifically designed for your car and tend to be heavy.

you can get anything fabricated to fit your needs and budget and a local install shop.

sorry to sound like a commercial.

 

I have no intent on having them instal anything actually... Not the greatest of experiences...

I do however enjoy turning on their systems =D
I dont know to much other than you need an amp and a sub. so I have no idea how easy they are to take out, and if they could put a dampner in acceleration exc. plus My buddy in his mustang messed up putting his in and everytime he accelerates it makes a funny whine/buzz noise. So I dont want something like thhat to happen if its not done right.

 

a system that is carefully thought out and installed right will in no way mess with the performance of the car.

i have quite a bit of hardware in the car and it doesnt mess with anything except peoples eardrums.

 

It's definitely added weight. My sub+box is probably, I dunno, anywhere from 30-40lbs. Fortunately, the weight is in the back. And depending on the set-up, you can take the sub out in five seconds. I do this for autocrosses, but leave the amp in since it takes 4 nuts to take off, and it's not much weight at all. 5lb maybe.

But it's weight, it'll slow you down.

 

I would say mine adds about 20-30lbs. The amp and box could be removed in about 5-10 minutes depending on what you get and how you set it up.

 

My question is, how much airspace are those 12's getting sealed? I had the same subs in a previous car and when I went to put it in the Mini we were working with 1.8 cubic feet. I ended up using one in a ported enclosure tuned to 32 hz.

 

check this helpful info. from the Tricked Out episode

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_ste...320915,00.html

 

I'm thinking of slapping one of these under each of my seats:
http://www.clarion.com/us/en/product...804245878.html

http://www.clarion.com/us/en/MungoBl...3(Install).pdf

But I have a few questions to pose to the group:
1) can I run the speaker level inputs serial? (go against the instructions and wiring the units from the rear speakers)

2) will they fit? (i'm too lazy to go down to the garage)
13-5/8"W x 2-15/16"H x 9-1/8"D1 x 9-1/8"D2

3) what are your expert opinions on the output/hz etc... will placing the under my butt make up for them not being 10"s?

tia

 

I heard one of those in a friends car once - I wasn't very impressed; maybe two would be better.

 

I'm disappointed...I was expecting someone to post a photo of a dog in their boot.

 

Here is a pic of my sub box. The size works perfect with a JL 10". It is a tight squeeze while holding the top for the amp at an angle.

Later

 

 

where do you guys buy the sub box pictured above that tucks to the left side??