This is awesome. Do you find that having it on its side firing rearward is the best position for sound?

(wondering if you could lie it flat on the bottom)

 

Wagnbat,

I like this setup, My only requests to my installer was that I had to be able to get to my battery quickly, be able to fold rear seat and have access to my rear poweroutlet. It takes less than 5 min to remove sub and amp rack for easy battery access.

I definately understand only tearing down you Batmini once, check the following for pix of my ICE:

http://bonz.smugmug.com/gallery/340368

The funny thing is I am replacing head unit again .... adding bluetooth, removing xm & adding sirius, adding visor monitors & ipod control.

Later

 

Thank you Francky. I had it custom built by one of are club members family members! he did a great Job. the Flames that go across the top match my Hood flames! It also Glows Blue at night under the glass!!! Will have to work on a night shot!!

 

Ooooh, blue neon. That makes it even cooler. I have lots of blue neon hooked up the Frackmobile. Do you think they'd be willing to do a correspondence construction piece? I'm sure there are a couple other owners on here who need a new back seat pahtnuh.

 

I am thinking about buying 2 10" Pioneer Subs, powered by a Pioneer Amp.

(sub)
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...etailComponent

(amp)
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...etailComponent#

would this amp power the two 10" properly?, I know the Watts Nominal Power Handling of the sub is 250W and the amp is 360W RMS for 2-ohm independence

The only reason I chose these subs, is for the depth (2-7/8"), and I want as much space in the boot as possible in my MCS '06
I will keep the factory HU, and I also noticed the amp has speaker level input, so that means i should be able to hook the rear speaker wire right up to it without a line inverter? or am I wrong?

Any help or suggestions would be great, I'm not looking for massive bass, but want to be able to have more bass than the stock speakers produce, or would one 10" sub be enough?

 

One good 10" with sufficient power will give you more bass than the stock speakers, as you mentioned. It is a nice improvement, but it doesnt bump and shake.

 

So you think one of those 10" subs would be enough with that amp? or should i try a 12" sub that is practically the same specs but is like 1/2' deeper and its RMS is a little more, because I can always turn down the bass. Thanks.

 

I have found that if you have the woofer facing either to the front or the back of the car, it hits much harder than if it is facing side or up.

 

so when you say "hitting hard" do you mean it rattles/shakes things more in the MINI, but does it sound better? because I would think if you pointed the sub towards the front or back, you would get better bass throughout the car, but if its pointing up or to the side, the sub really isnt pushing the bass anywhere, so wouldnt that make things shake more? but idk for sure, that is just my 2cents.

 

1. A 10 and a 12 will sound a bit different. A 10 will usually be a little tighter, whereas a 12 will be a bit boomier.

2. It is my understanding that subs sound better when the speaker is positioned at an angle because you want the sound waves to deflect at an angle, not straight at the roof or side and then straight back at the speaker. Otherwise, bass is supposedly non-directional, so it does not actually have to be "pushed" anywhwere as above mentioned and shouldnt make anything rattle more. Of course if you are firing right at a plastic wall it may rattle more though.

 

Okay, I decided on getting only 1 sub now... Should I get the 10" sub that is 250 RMS 4-ohm or the 12" sub that is 350 RMS 4-ohm
which sub would be best for the mono amp I will get, that is 800W peak, and 250W RMS at 4-ohm, or 360W RMS at 2-ohm?

And what difference would you think i would notice between the single 10" and the 12" in a closed box?
Thanks.

 

[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]I am back after 2 years without a Mini, got rear ended at 40 Mph. I got my new one and I am about to set it up the way I had the other one. I changed all speakers and added 2 amps, a class D for the Woofer and a 4 channel for front and back speakers. The speakers are Polk audio 6.5" component speaker with crossover and tweeter and 2 Boston Acoustics 6 by 9 2 way speaker. I used a single 12" Square Kicker solobaric LS5 with dual voice coil connected to a MTX 6500 Class D. The cool part about this particular sub is that you only need a box 1/2" bigger than the area of the speaker. This gives me enough room for my Big computer bag and the sub, I can also take it out in 5 seconds if needed. I used a 4 gauge cable from the battery through a 1 farad capacitor into a 2 way power distribution and from there with 6 gauge wire to the amps. The 2 amps, capacitor and power distribution are placed in a piece of wood that fits at the bottom of the boot like 4" deep with four computer fans to cool them down. I also have a baby Kenwood equalizer to control the bass. Sorry for the long response. [/SIZE][/FONT]

 

I saw on MINI2 where someone put a free air Image Dynamics 8" sub in each 6x9 location with little modification needed. I spoke with the ID folks and that is what they recommended too. Then you can put amps and processors behind the side access panels and use up no room.

 

Single 10 will be a little tighter sounding, more accurate. Single 12 a little bit boomier, more low end.

The 10 looks like a good match for the amp and needs less space, but never hearing it first I couldnt decide. Are you ordering online without ever hearing it? Sometimes you have to, but I dont like to.

 

I am no longer getting that amp or sub... because of the online dealer (www.uscaraudio.com) i was going to buy from would not sell me the sub for the listed online price ($50). They wouldnt sell it for anything less than $110, they said it was an error on their part that they listed the wrong price... so for $110 I would rather get a different sub and loose 3" of space
Now I'm thinking about getting a 10" alpine sub, but still not sure...
Looks like i'm back to the drawing board, and now the integrated subs people have done in the back panels is looking alot more preferable, but not sure if i want to do that...

The only good news i have right now is, My MCS '06 is on the Freedom right now, and will get to the US on May, 6th (actually on April 30th, but mine is going to SC)

 

Can someone tell me the depth of the side back panels? Thinking maybe making a custom box/mold to the back side panels instead of making a box to fill the boot... Just need some measurements, to get a better idea of how deep they side are with everything out of the way... I drew some blue areas where the sub might go, any help or advice would be great... thanks

 

This may be good news if you have never actually heard that sub before. Now you have time to go and listen to some first. I recomend the JL Audio W3, they run about $200 for a 10 but worth it.

 

I can't wait for my MCS to come in so I can get to work. I own a car audio shop in Louisiana, But I promised My self that I won't go crazy over board like I did with My scion XB. You guys have some great installs keep the pics coming. The last time I actually looked in the back of a MC was like 2002. Mine should be here at the end of may so I'll post pics then.

 

I like your screen name

 

Sorry it took me so long to respond. Sounds like you've got some different ideas going, if you still need help let me know.
-G

 

Simplygriff,

I'm not totally sure what setup I'll do untill I get my MCS in May, but i'm trying to get the ideas how i want it to look and how i want it to fit, this way i dont need to rush into it and find out i dont like the way it is.
But I would still like your input, and I appreciate everyone's input too...

For sub suggestions, is there anything from BestBuy (I get a discount there) that is decent enough, prefereably a 10" by itself, because I was thinking about an Alpine ~$180
Unless you suggest something best buy doesnt carry and it really worth it, please let me know that too... I know Minitor suggested JL Audio W3, which I know are good...

And for placement issues, I will have a 10" sub, 1 amp, and 1 pc (VoomPC size of another amp), Thinking either an amp under one seat and the pc under the other, or put it all in the boot, or seeing if there is the compartment under the seat for the pc, then it would go there... but right now, I am not sure what i'll be getting and not sure where i'll be putting it either...

 

My shallow Diamond's weren't all that expensive. They were definately less than $180 each. I'd check the local stereo shops just to see.

I'd try to keep it all as invisible as possible with the exception of the sub but that's just me. :D
-G

 

Hey, I just ran accross these shallow Earthquake subs, and what I found, people are impressed by these shallow subs.
My question is, would two 6.5" subs sound better/louder, and one 10" sub?
http://www.earthquakesound.com/IMAGE...S%20manual.pdf
and is it worth the money at the price they are listed?

 

Small subs are typically tighter, but don't hit quite as hard or as low as bigger ones. Looking at the manual you linked, it seems that the 6.5" ones only hit down to about 40 Hz, vs. 24 Hz for the 12" one.

So, it comes down to what you like... I had a 2x 10" MTX bandpass box a while back (in another car), and it definitely hit low and hard. But it was a little bit sloppy... I now have a single 10" in a sealed enclosure, and the response seems a little bit better, but I'm not as impressed with the amount of mirror-shaking power it has...

For my MINI (should be here next week), I'm currently thinking about the new Alpine LAT subwoofers... they supposedly hit as hard as dual 10" or 12" setups, in less volume. Hopefully a friend of mine is still working at a local car audio shop (haven't talked with him n a few years), so I'll get more opinions from him soon...

Here's the Alpine LAT ones for those interested. It looks like the PLV-7 will fit based on the dimensions, but not sure if that's really the case...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CfG82Fq...1000&I=500PLT5
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-J6chkZ3...1000&I=500PLV7

 

Just finished mine this weekend.
12in sub.
Kicker Amp.
Pegboard over the amp so it can breathe.
Hooked up to stock H/K.

With faux bottom:


Without: