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Navigation & AudioAudio upgrades, bluetooth, and navigation discussions surrounding the Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.
Apologies for posting this but after reading this thread and looking elsewhere, I haven't seen a definitive answer regarding installing one of these units in a 2010 R55 with the factory Nav. Mine has the second "slot". Anyone know if there is an option for this?
Well, several hours later and a bunch of messages with Aliexpress Sellers, it seems I've landed on a kit that will bring CarPlay to the 2010 Nav System in my R55: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001250003287.html
Pic of it installed:
This one reuses the existing screen, and frankly, looks a bit more elegant compared to some of the others that replace the entire centre section of the dash. Everything will appear to be factory, but with the addition of CarPlay. I'll report back once it is installed.
Interested to see how this turns out. This would be the ideal option
So it turns out that one won't work as my car has the CCC system and not the CIC system found in the 2011+. This was a good read and I wish I started here, as once I knew what the underlaying system was, it made shopping much easier and took out the guess work: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IDrive
They confirm it will work with the 2008 - 2010 Nav System, but the resolution won't be quite as nice, as the factory screen doesn't have as many colours etc. I can live with that as I just want the functionality of Car Play and not necessarily the ability to watch movies etc.
I'll report back when its done.
Last edited by scottyb043; Sep 1, 2020 at 04:09 PM.
My Clubman is a 2012 LCI with the HK system, and I’m interested in adding this unit to gain CarPlay. I’d like to verify usability before purchase. The online manual is pretty useless, and the manufacturer seems only interested in physical fit to the dash board for compatibility.
So it turns out that one won't work as my car has the CCC system and not the CIC system found in the 2011+. This was a good read and I wish I started here, as once I knew what the underlaying system was, it made shopping much easier and took out the guess work: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IDrive
They confirm it will work with the 2008 - 2010 Nav System, but the resolution won't be quite as nice, as the factory screen doesn't have as many colours etc. I can live with that as I just want the functionality of Car Play and not necessarily the ability to watch movies etc.
Anyone got the Chinese ones into their 2015 R60 Countryman S? I tried the following 2 and they both gave me the exact same issues, not sure how I can fix these issues:
1) Getting error CC-ID 167 since I can't configure the cars date and time via these aftermarket radios, the only way to fix this error is to use the default radio
2) The speedometer light always stays on these units (the first speedometer bar) hence draining my cars battery.
Sorry updates have been sporadic, but I finally buttoned up everything last night. First drive impression is that it's a very well made product and fits great in the MINI.
Second impression is that it was a super pain in the ***** to install. Thank god there are a few really good disassembly videos on YouTube.
To answer ECSTuning's question, you only see the speedometer screen when you press the MPH button. All other functions are available via that screen though so it's not like you're missing out. One issue that I haven't figured out yet with the stock ROM is how to change the speedometer from kph to mph. It has me completely stumped.
On the plus side, these units have pretty good developer support from XDA and they have theirs running in miles per hour. I just don't think the ROM is all that attractive.
Here's the final shot with the nav unit and LCI center stack. I'm really glad I changed out my old gross grey climate controls. It's a much better look.
So I know the thread has moved on by a few years, but I just got my hands on this unit (I got @howiestt 's old unit, hehehe). It seems pretty decent. Agree the sound maker puck is hideous, but what can you do.
Question - has anyone gotten theirs to run with the key in ACC mode? (single press of start button)? I don't really want to run it with ignition on - if I'm waiting for someone, I kind of want to just play with it or something, don't necessarily want ignition on, but every time I shut off the ignition, it actually shuts down (so the powerup also takes a pretty long time). Any way to have it sleep?
Also did the pre-LCI to LCI console swap. So much nicer!
Doing some more investigation, it looks like the R56 harness does not have an ACC (switched) wire on it. On the main harness, there is 12V but no switched wire. This is REALLY confusing. But the ISO connector between the Topnavi display unit and CD unit DOES have an ACC wire (but I have no idea where it gets power from... or maybe it doesn`t, seeing as the unit does not stay on).
Im not even sure I’m going in the right direction here, because the unit DOES know that there is a switch happening (because it DOES power on and it DOES power off), I just want it to stay powered though. Maybe I need to replace the 12V power in the harness by a switched ACC wire from somewhere, maybe fuse box?
Doing some more investigation, it looks like the R56 harness does not have an ACC (switched) wire on it. On the main harness, there is 12V but no switched wire. This is REALLY confusing. But the ISO connector between the Topnavi display unit and CD unit DOES have an ACC wire (but I have no idea where it gets power from... or maybe it doesn`t, seeing as the unit does not stay on).
Mine turns on in the ACC position. You could try A13, I'm not sure if that is an input to the radio or driven by the radio to turn the amp on. I suspect it's the latter but you could probe it.
Mine turns on in the ACC position. You could try A13, I'm not sure if that is an input to the radio or driven by the radio to turn the amp on. I suspect it's the latter but you could probe it.
A13 doesn’t seem to go to 12V .... very odd indeed. Thanks for that link though. I have some weird wires in the B/C part of the connector that have nothing matching on the car side, not sure why they are there or where they go to.
It looks like Bimmer-tech finally came out with the 2016-2020 MMI retrofit kit. I don't think I am ready to make the leap yet, but would like to hear impressions from anyone that does. Here is the link:
I think this post has identified the issue. There's no ACC (switched) power on the harness. But then .... I'm really confused. Should I rewire the yellow (12V+) to the fusebox switched power? Do I assume it was intentionally designed this way and I'm doing something wrong, or do I assume it was designed this way out of laziness? Heh.
So my first attempt got deleted. I will try again without links.
Has anyone tried to use a ground loop isolator for the alternator whine feedback? I am thinking about ordering one of the nav units here soon.
Just installed one of these units and there is a bit of an alternator wine. Did anyone have any luck with a ground loop isolator and if so which one and how was it installed? Thanks!
I've been wondering this too. Not sure how one would install it. I've used them in the past with an aftermarket head unit and an aftermarket amp and a ground loop isolator with RCA in/outs. I've got the H/K amp so I'm guessing my choices are splice a ground loop isolator into the harness in the speaker connections or run a ground wire between the head unit and the H/K to tie the grounds together better. I assume this is only affecting people with HiFi or H/K amps?
Thanks for the reply! I have an integral audio system and I’m wondering if I can put one in line right before the amp. I noticed I only seem to have the whine in the front integral audio speakers and not from the back oem speakers .I’ll order a ground loop isolator and see what happens. Now to find one...
SO I posted too soon. I looked at the link you provided and I'm wondering if the line out converter might work as described. That and taping up the extra RCA cables and whatnot with electrical tape. I have a rattle from the install that I want to address anyway.
Realized that the input to the integral amp is rca so I got two rca style ground loop isolators. No joy. In that Audi forum thread it sounds like one guy had luck with the noise isolators. I may go that route next. I’m pretty happy with the unit none the less.
Another update to the alternator whine: seems like I only get it with my wired apple CarPlay. When I use the headunits radio I don’t get the whine....any thoughts?
I’m curious if anyone with a wireless CarPlay solution gets the alternator whine...
I do not, no. I don’t think I can reach the CarPlay box to try it wired… once my backup camera arrives I’ll be taking it apart to check, so if nobody replies by then, I can try.
Interesting. My current theory is that my alternator whine is coming from the apple CarPlay wired unit. At least in my case.
maybe I’ll purchase a wireless one and see...I hate throwing money at troubleshooting.
It would seem illogical that a wireless one would fix it, because your noise isn’t over the Lightning cable - so if anything, your noise point would remain the same somewhere in the system, no?
Are you plugged in using the car harness alone or do you have any extra wiring?
The reason I think it may is only because the USB is providing power to my iPhone and I wonder if that is causing the interference. Like I said earlier, I don’t get the whine from the Android radio or videos, etc...just when I use apple CarPlay
I don’t get any interference in my wireless CarPlay in my M3, but that isn’t an android unit either.
