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OEM navigation upgrade-Hopefully a how-to guide.

Navigation & Audio Audio upgrades, bluetooth, and navigation discussions surrounding the Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

OEM navigation upgrade-Hopefully a how-to guide.

  #1  
Old 12-11-2011, 12:58 PM
Brad Bedell
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OEM navigation retrofit- a how-to guide.

This started out as a Navigation/GPS retrofit work log, but has now turned into a 'how-to' log. I've tried to remove any unknown/untested theories from it but due to the nature of it being a prior work log, I may have overlooked something.


Prerequisites:
Please don't ask about coding/programming unless you have a specific question. it's a topic well outside the level of this thread.

1. Understand how to change your VO in NCS Expert. You will want to code your FRM, CAS to $609-navigation and $6UH-RTTI) After you update, power cycle and you'll see CAPPL, CHOST, CTUNE, and CID. You'll want to remove your old radio code also. ($6FC was mine)
2. Have a decent set of tools and knowledge to know how to use them.
3. Installed Adobe SVG viewer and Internet Explorer 7.0+
4. Ability to read between the lines if I'm not clear.
5. soldering iron and heat shrink
6. Multimeter.
7. Read my entire thread.



Essential websites:

http://realoem.com
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r.../r56/index.htm
http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/us/
http://bmwcoding.com
www.car-part.com (for used parts needs)
The entire photo gallery of this post,several extra photos here:
http://bedellracing.smugmug.com/Other/MiniCooperNavigation/20539129_8zmB6j#!i=1626887991&k=35nZxx8


Big thank you to Joey(Strobeyprobey and Alex for his answering my pesky mini-cooper questions as well as his time spent researching diagrams and WDS site.

A very big Thank you to Wade at Mini of Dallas for all his time helping me chase obscure giblets to make all the 'big' parts work.

My car: 10/2008 (09 MY) R55 factory JCW.

Donor car: 12/2008 (09MY) R55 S

Parts acquired:
DVD/Radio/CCC unit.
Nav Screen
Navigation Speedometer
Mini Joystick and 4 pin pigtail (I've lost the invoice where I purchased the bits) Pin/terminals are: 61138364848
Trim panel for Mini Joystick (console trim:51162756157 http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...88&hg=51&fg=35
Trim panel for around the radio/ac assembly. (PN: 51169151326 http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...90&hg=51&fg=30 )
Connector for back of Navigation screen. (If you can find one, it's the same 12 pin connector as you find on the heater control) 12 pin only pins 1-6 are used. [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] I used part number: 61138384550 Note: it does not have the protective case.
Pins for above connector are [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4x 61131393704, 2x [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] 61138366260 [/SIZE][/FONT]
Two connectors for Radio: PN 61-13-8-364-848 this is for your Radio and F45 in the panel.
Navigation antenna: PN: 65-20-3-456-090 *must have blue connector* **Note, Convertible antenna is about $70.00 and likely will work if you don't have to have it on the roof. **
new Antenna cable for GPS: 61126970911






Things confirmed that work 'plug and play'
1. Speedometer for navigation. (plus in and works with all related lights)
2. Radio/CD player, steering wheel controls. (though you have NO display and are stuck with the factory pre-sets on the radio) If you simply plug the CCC into your stock radio wiring, it will 'work' however, you should rewire your power feed to F45 instead of F21, otherwise, you will power cycle your CCC every time. (Which is incorrect) I used F21 to the Mini controller and tapped my CAN_L & CAN_H and ground wires off the back of the radio for the mini joystick. This allowed a nice and simple 12-15" jumper connector without any crazy wiring.

3. Powering/getting it to work. It simply 'worked' when I powered it up. I really suspect very little coding needs to be done, unless you're really picky about making everything work.


Navigation screen.
*edit* This is the Video wire for the navigation. Connects directly to the CCC.* >> confirmed :10 pin rectangle connector on the side of the navigation screen. I it's an short ~8-12" wire black in color with silver/metal connector and shielded as the pigtail that I have off the radio is shielded. Cost was about $40.00 from Mini.




I can't clearly identify what connector this is as the connector photo links on the WDS site are dead.
12 pin rectangle connector on the back of the navigation screen Shown at 6:00 in this photo:
*edit* 12 pin seems to only have 4 wires to it. power, ground, Can Bus high, can bus low**

Also, not sure if the connector at 12:00 on this (small 6 pin) is used. Per the WDS and diagrams I can find, it's not used. Can anyone confirm? It operates without this connector, most likely another country function or a programming/diagnostic connector.




There's a 4 pin flat connector that runs to the center joy-stick behind the shifter and back up to the speedo/dvd area. (still trying to figure out the routing):
Fuse F21, Can Bus high & low, Ground to X13016, which is the same as the factory Radio. Meaning, simply splice into the wires in the back of the radio and you'll be golden. **Edit, I found a wiring mistake. CCC pin 15, is routed to F45, which is constant power. Joystick and Screen is F21, which is switched.









Identified:
Fan wires (were cut and I only got one end) I presume power, ground and RPM. these run directly on the back of the CCC to the fan.







Antenna differences:

Left is my stock one, right is a GPS antenna:



Expect a full parts list In the next week or so. I'm still chasing down a connector. If you can get the 12 pin pigtail from the video cluster, the rest is easily available from Mini. A full wiring harness would be nice, but is FAR from necessary.


 

Last edited by Brad Bedell; 01-09-2012 at 04:48 PM. Reason: Updating accuracy of posting.
  #2  
Old 12-12-2011, 11:17 AM
Brad Bedell
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Okies, I'm waiting on parts now. Monitor 10 pin shielded cable that was cut and a 12 pin connector to the back of the screen.

My car did not have a GPS cable installed and the Antenna was incorrect. You might have a blue antenna wire if you are putting GPS in. Antenna wire was ~45.00, stock antenna was $170, one could probably get by with the convertible antenna for around $70.00

Lower console didn't come from the wrecking yard. Replacement trim is about $65.00


As for wiring,the navigation system is mostly self contained. Yes, the main wiring harness is different, but pretty much boils down to adding 4 wires to the CID (screen) and a jumper harness from the Joystick to to the appropriate locations.

The CCC plugs directly into the factory radio wiring. **Edit, I found a wiring mistake. CCC pin 15, is routed to F45, which is constant power. Joystick and Screen is F21, which is switched.


The only part left to figure out is the programming. I'm still trying to locate NCS_expert software and need to go pick up a cable so I can try the minitechinfo site. I'm adding heated seats at the same time and need to re-activate the rear fog lamp due to the heated seat module replacement. Hopefully this will all go smoothly at one time.

I'll post trials, tribulations and hurdles to overcome as I go along. Assuming I get it all working, I'll detail out every part number and cost associated with this update. Right now, I'm just at $1300 total, which part of it was the AC control panel that wasn't necessary for a navigation retrofit. Better deals could be found on the Nav system, but I found all the bits in one location and they came out of a similarly equipped car with production date only two months apart.
 

Last edited by Brad Bedell; 01-09-2012 at 11:03 AM. Reason: accuracy
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:21 AM
Brad Bedell
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here's a linky to all my misc photos. Intentionally over-exposed as I was too lazy to drag the lights out for pin illumination.

http://bedellracing.smugmug.com/Othe...887991_35nZxx8
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:42 PM
alexs3d2
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The connector on the side of the housing is the LVDS display connector. When I removed mine, I believe the connector on the back of the housing was unused. But I may be wrong...

The WDS only mentions only the back connector, not the side one... It wouldn't be the first time I find discrepancies in the WDS.

Also check here for the WDS diagrams (alternative to spaghetticoder)

PS: Is your speedo MPH or KM/H??
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:06 PM
alexs3d2
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Oh and one question: Since you went into all this trouble, why didn't you simply go for the newer HDD-based CIC used in 2011+ cars?

For NCSExpert, WinKFP and Tool32 you should download "BMW Standard Tools 2.10". Then you should download the R56 Datens (currently at v44). Look at BMWCoding.com or here.
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:32 PM
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if you're are going to that much trouble......

You might as well keep going with this,The factory nav is pretty boring after a while.





https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ctory-nav.html
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:57 PM
Brad Bedell
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Alexs3d2:

The Side 10 pin connector is the lvds There is a matching one on the CCC. I only got one end and the other parts went to the crusher already. It's only ~35.00 new and it's ordered.


If you drill down to on bmw-planet: body, display and information functions, Central display and mini-joystick, you can see 1 and 2 connectors. It also mentions the LVDS and not the smaller 6 pin connector (at 12:00) I also can't imagine the power, ground and CAN being supplied by that small of a pin/terminal. (24+ gauge pins at the largest). The 12 pin is consistent with the rest of the car, the micro 6 pin is not. The hook up has to be the 12 pin connector. Though, I agree that there is a disagreement with this and the WDS site and spaghetticoder. I suspect they confuse the multi-information 6 pin display. But I could be wrong.

USA MPH on the speedo.

Availability of used parts is why I didn't go with the newer system. I may at some point or may simply get bored and move on to another project.

JPMM: wouldn't be opposed to that, I do have the video converter here.
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:02 PM
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look at the other stuff the guy has done on the other thread

if you get the video converter hooked up shoot me a pm on a howto
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:14 PM
Brad Bedell
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Originally Posted by alexs3d2 View Post
The connector on the side of the housing is the LVDS display connector. When I removed mine, I believe the connector on the back of the housing was unused. But I may be wrong...

The WDS only mentions only the back connector, not the side one... It wouldn't be the first time I find discrepancies in the WDS.
Now I am confused again. On the back of the screen, connector 1 "
Plug-in connection at the Central Information Display" Is a 12 pin connector. The connector 2 is a 6 pin.


http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/us/zin...620002-K06.htm
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:16 PM
Brad Bedell
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Originally Posted by JPMM View Post
look at the other stuff the guy has done on the other thread

if you get the video converter hooked up shoot me a pm on a howto
I'm sure someone has it decoded. There is a diagram available. It's the same 10 pin LVDS system on the BMW E87 1 Series, BMW E60 5 Series, BMW E63/E64 6 Series,Pre-2009 BMW E90 3 Series, 2007+ E70 BMW X5

-B
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Brad Bedell View Post
Now I am confused again. On the back of the screen, connector 1 "
Plug-in connection at the Central Information Display" Is a 12 pin connector. The connector 2 is a 6 pin.


http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/us/zin...620002-K06.htm

Okay, not confused any longer. I disassembled the video unit and found the pins labeled on the circuit board.



Doing some minor tracing, I found that pins 7-12 are completely unused. 4 pins are all that's used, as the diagram reflects.
 
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:17 PM
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So the back connector is the CAN bus and power (Connector X9997)... Say... Did you actually see any "photodiode" in the housing, because to be honest I never noticed my unit dimming based on the light conditions.
 
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Old 12-13-2011, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by alexs3d2 View Post
So the back connector is the CAN bus and power (Connector X9997)... Say... Did you actually see any "photodiode" in the housing, because to be honest I never noticed my unit dimming based on the light conditions.
yes, I did. You can see the cutout for it, just above the screen and below the 80mph mark (12:00 if you are kph)

Those of you looking for nav screen/speedos, a guy has 'brand new' parts on ebay UK. They are currently pretty darn cheap. I've also found a variety of parts on some of the different European Ebay sites. I may try to track down the UK video module that mounts under the seat. Aftermarket might prove to be easier to implement, depending on what code will be accepted on the US modules.
 
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:04 AM
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I am looking for a navi speedo in KPH, as I mine is currently in MPH (bought the car used in the UK, but the rest of Europe works with KPH)... Will check out the auctions.
 
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Old 12-14-2011, 02:11 PM
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How does the USB connect to the NAV system?
 
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:06 PM
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Success!

the whole 'wiring' Boils down to 4 wires, Joystick and display wire up to the same fuse and grounds as the CCC/radio as well as junction into the Can L&H connections. I simply spliced into the back of the radio wires.

I still need to route the antenna wire and run diagnostics as the unit doesn't know where it is. (still thinks it's up north and I'm in TX) I seem to recall reading about a reset procedure, I'll do some research tomorrow.

The only part I'm now waiting on is the *correct* locking portion of the connector (I found the connector insides) and the lower console trim. It back-ordered from Germany.

Heated seats tomorrow and then hopefully do some coding. *maybe* reprogram some vin information in the control units if it exists.
 
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by texasmontego View Post
How does the USB connect to the NAV system?
It does not connect directly. You need a MULF2-HIGH ecu module (same as for the bluetooth) which then wires through the MOST bus on the CCC.

@Brad Bedell: Did you need to change the junction box (JBE/SPEG)? I am asking because by reading I think to remember that cars with navigation and/or electrochromic mirrors had SPEG-HI vs. SPEG-LO.
 
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by alexs3d2 View Post

@Brad Bedell: Did you need to change the junction box (JBE/SPEG)? I am asking because by reading I think to remember that cars with navigation and/or electrochromic mirrors had SPEG-HI vs. SPEG-LO.
No, I did not. F21 is where power source comes from, which is the same as the radio. I didn't verify where the ground pulls from or where the Can H & L pulled from, but I suspect they went back to a junction connector or even as far back as the JBE. My only risk for tapping a ground into the back of the Radio/CCC is a ground loop introduced noise. *IF* I get some weirdness, I'll route the ground to the same point as the CCC termination vs solder connection 3" out of the back of the CCC.

I did however, continue to twist my CAN_H and CAN_L wires when routing to the joystick and to the nav screen.

Worth noting, if someone had NAV and wanted to change to a 'basic' radio, it'd be plug & play for them. (less any coding of course)




Now, if anyone wants to supply the parts to the new navigation (2011+) I'll be happy to try to get it going and report back.
 
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:38 AM
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Wow. Great job. Nice to see someone attempting a difficult project with success. Go to show that anything is possible.
 
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Old 12-17-2011, 07:10 AM
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Indeed great how he managed... Unfortunately though, an upgrade to the CIC is more complicated NOT due to wiring (should be similar to the CCC), but because several functions require authentication in order to function (FSC Codes). So simply coding a module will not help much. BMW charges too much for these codes (more than the price of the hardware unit) and cracked codes are also not particularly cheap.
 
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:39 AM
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Alexs3d2: BMW guys have the CIC retrofit figured out. It's 250-600 to get someone to activate it. There are even hardware filter bits to 'activate' it. But still, more money than it's worth. I'm likely to do a car computer and a touch screen overlay for the 'next' step. I'm doing seat heaters today. Next week's evening project will be getting NCS expert working and debug, code, program all the features as necessary.
 
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:08 AM
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Just an update. I did end up needing a new antenna.

As for coding/VO:
$609 was for the navigation
$6UH was for the RTTI (traffic info)

I deleted my old radio and updated all the other modules.

The ONLY thing not working currently are my voice commands. I can't determine if it's a microphone input issue or coding. My car has bluetooth with the Microphone and voice commands worked prior to the navigation retrofit.


 

Last edited by Brad Bedell; 01-10-2012 at 06:00 AM.
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:53 AM
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So Brad_Bedell,

Once you have modified the wiring (Which only seems to rewire power from F45 instead of F21) do you have a completely working OEM Navigation unit? Everything is working as it would on an OEM install of the navigation?

As for the Voice Commands/Bluetooth, Can you still use the bluetooth function to talk on phone calls? or has it disabled all voice function?

I am very curious to take this project underway, I just need to source a screen that is not $1900... lol
 
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:01 PM
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Bluetooth hands free/phonebook/etc still works with the phone, however since I've been unable to add the VO to the bluetooth module, I don't have voice commands. (though, this may not be the entire issue) I never used voice commands; so I've not investigated any more.

Should be able to find a screen for less than $300. Just look around on car-part.
 
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:47 PM
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Voice Commands need FSC activation... They are handled by the navigation unit, not MULF (Bluetooth unit). FSC activation means you need to install a BMW-supplied code and digital signature in order for the function to activate (simple coding will not do).

There was a CD ISO on the web with the FSCs for chassis numbers up to 2007. I am under the impression, you could change the VIN stored on the navigation unit and then import the matching code+signature from the CD (but this is only a guess).

Currently, I don't know how you can import the codes with Tool32 (although is must be possible). But it is definitely doable using Progman.
 

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