Navigation & Audio "Power-On" for new Amp
"Power-On" for new Amp
I know that there has been a lot of discussion about this.
I have a 2010 CS with the standard sound system.
Putting in a new amp speakers etc. Question is (in the non hifi system) how do you get the amp to power on with the radio. That is....when the ignition is off and you switch on the radio. There must be a wire behind the radio that switches the radio off when the ignition is off but allows the radio to be switched back on.....is there a line behind the dash somewhere? Hard to get to?
I don't want to use a switched circuit (lighter etc).
Any suggestions...Robyn...Schatzy62...feel free!
I have a 2010 CS with the standard sound system.
Putting in a new amp speakers etc. Question is (in the non hifi system) how do you get the amp to power on with the radio. That is....when the ignition is off and you switch on the radio. There must be a wire behind the radio that switches the radio off when the ignition is off but allows the radio to be switched back on.....is there a line behind the dash somewhere? Hard to get to?
I don't want to use a switched circuit (lighter etc).
Any suggestions...Robyn...Schatzy62...feel free!
There isa amp turn on line on the back of the head unit and i beleive it works (turns on and off) in the base system but i am not 100% sure if that is true.
newministuff.com make a harness that is plug an play for getting the audio and some other signals out of the head unit. You would have to take the dash apart and the head unit out to put their harness in but it does make for avery neat installation.
Other than that you could find out which connector has this line in it and tap it there. I unfortunately am away from my computer for a week or more and do not have access to the wiring diagrams and i do not remember exaatly where it is.
newministuff.com make a harness that is plug an play for getting the audio and some other signals out of the head unit. You would have to take the dash apart and the head unit out to put their harness in but it does make for avery neat installation.
Other than that you could find out which connector has this line in it and tap it there. I unfortunately am away from my computer for a week or more and do not have access to the wiring diagrams and i do not remember exaatly where it is.
Thanks for the info. I found this article a few minutes ago. You had a friend....
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...a-circuit.html
I wonder if this circuit exists in a non Hi Fi system as there is no amp.
My guess would be that the radio must have access to a circuit that switches off when the car ignition switches off but come back on again straight away. If that is the case that wouldn't work as the amp would stay on. Maybe that is one of the circuits you mentioned in your previous post that shut off after a period.
If the car is non HiFi then why would it have an amp-on wire connected. Especially as people say the wiring is different even if the HU is the same.
Guess no one ever tested that X15 connector?
I would hate to have to take the radio out for this switch!!!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...a-circuit.html
I wonder if this circuit exists in a non Hi Fi system as there is no amp.
My guess would be that the radio must have access to a circuit that switches off when the car ignition switches off but come back on again straight away. If that is the case that wouldn't work as the amp would stay on. Maybe that is one of the circuits you mentioned in your previous post that shut off after a period.
If the car is non HiFi then why would it have an amp-on wire connected. Especially as people say the wiring is different even if the HU is the same.
Guess no one ever tested that X15 connector?
I would hate to have to take the radio out for this switch!!!
I think you should check the X15 connector to see if there is a wire at Pin 1 and if so does it turn on and off with the radio. If it does then you are golden to use that as the on "amp on" line.
Just read the manual for the amp. It's a Kenwood KAC-8404. It says that if you are using speaker level input connections that you do not require the power cord wire! The unit has "signal sensing turn-on".
Has anyone else ever heard of this? If you are using preamp inputs from your HU then you require the 'power-on' cable because they are a non amplified source so the amp can't detect them......
Has anyone else ever heard of this? If you are using preamp inputs from your HU then you require the 'power-on' cable because they are a non amplified source so the amp can't detect them......
Just read the manual for the amp. It's a Kenwood KAC-8404. It says that if you are using speaker level input connections that you do not require the power cord wire! The unit has "signal sensing turn-on".
Has anyone else ever heard of this? If you are using preamp inputs from your HU then you require the 'power-on' cable because they are a non amplified source so the amp can't detect them......
Has anyone else ever heard of this? If you are using preamp inputs from your HU then you require the 'power-on' cable because they are a non amplified source so the amp can't detect them......
After trying an Add-A-Circuit tap in the F31 fuse socket, I recommend against it. It caused problems with the climate control.
I think the only safe way to do it is to tap into the Cig Lighter circuit at one of the outlets. The fuse is a 20 amp and there isn't an available Add-A-Circuit tap that will handle that much current. Most are only rated for 10 amps.
I think the only safe way to do it is to tap into the Cig Lighter circuit at one of the outlets. The fuse is a 20 amp and there isn't an available Add-A-Circuit tap that will handle that much current. Most are only rated for 10 amps.
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Robin. Aren't we talking about the amp on wire. The main power comes from the tap at the battery right? Also if I tap into the cig lighter I need the key in the ignition to listen to music right? Also I'm not sure if the amp on wire will even come into play with the my amp as it states that you do not need the amp on wire when using line level inputs.
I appreciate your advice.
I appreciate your advice.
Yes, that's what I thought this thread was about.
If you use an Add-A-Circuit tap in the fuse box, it holds both the fuse for the new circuit, and the fuse for the old circuit. So, to use a tap in the Cig Lighter slot, you would either have to put a 10 amp fuse on the Cig circuit, or risk overloading the tap.
Yes, I ran a 4 gauge wire to run one amp.
To have the audio play, the engine must be running. This is inconvenient, but the safest way to do it. A big amp can draw a lot of power and drain the battery. Unless you find a way to put in a more powerful battery, best to not run the audio when the engine is off.
If you use an Add-A-Circuit tap in the fuse box, it holds both the fuse for the new circuit, and the fuse for the old circuit. So, to use a tap in the Cig Lighter slot, you would either have to put a 10 amp fuse on the Cig circuit, or risk overloading the tap.
The main power comes from the tap at the battery right? Also if I tap into the cig lighter I need the key in the ignition to listen to music right? Also I'm not sure if the amp on wire will even come into play with the my amp as it states that you do not need the amp on wire when using line level inputs.
I appreciate your advice.
I appreciate your advice.
To have the audio play, the engine must be running. This is inconvenient, but the safest way to do it. A big amp can draw a lot of power and drain the battery. Unless you find a way to put in a more powerful battery, best to not run the audio when the engine is off.
I guess one of the nice things about my radio is that it has Bluetooth. When I am on a call and I stop and turn off the engine the call continues....then when I pull out the key the phone stays connected till either I push end on the radio or the other person hangs up.
The problem with using the cig lighter is that this feature will go and if you are on a call you will have to leave your engine running. Not really practical in a parking garage etc..
I'm going to put a voltmeter on the x15 today...I'll report back.
The problem with using the cig lighter is that this feature will go and if you are on a call you will have to leave your engine running. Not really practical in a parking garage etc..
I'm going to put a voltmeter on the x15 today...I'll report back.
You are running a fairly powerful AB amp (smoother, but not as efficient as a D amp). I wonder how long you can talk with the engine off and still be able to start it again? People have had problems with the MINI battery going flat from normal use when they make too many short trips. You got a long commute to keep that battery charged?
This is a little "Off Topic".. using the boost HU do I and the 4 channel amp. Do I do the channel swap and use all 4 feeds from the radio or do I just use the front unfiltered signals and split them to the front and rear channels....I would have to add an in line fader.
Thanks for any ideas.
Thanks for any ideas.
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