Has anyone installed one or know the voltage output measured by playing a sine wave connected to an oscilloscope of the non hifi system? or install an alpine pxe-h650? I want to know if I can connect the speaker inputs into the aux input of the h650 instead of the high level input, so the volume would still be controlled through the Mini volume **** instead of the Alpine remote, which is rather inconvient. I'm hoping not to have to use a line level converter.

Also does anyone have a link to where I can purchase the front a pillar trim pieces from the premium system with the tweeter openings?

Thanks!

 

Not sure about the technical stuff, but I purchased the pillars at the dealer for about $30 a side. They came with the factory tweeters.

 

Can you recall the approximate dimensions of the factory tweeter? What did you replace them with?

 

Why would you not want to use the line level?

I don't know the exact voltage but I would be surprised if it was more than 1.2 mv.

I want to use than alpine piece in my system as well , I have heard that the controls on that thing are a nightmare. Do you have to use the wireless remote for the volume?

What tweeters are you installing?

 

Sorry I haven't even taken them out of the box excpet to look at how the new tweeter would mount. I will take a look tonight at what size the factory tweeter is.

 

I have a PXE-H650 hooked up to the speaker input and use the mini volume ****. It works great. The only reason some people say you shouldn't do that is that some head units have a variable filter, like GM vehicles that cut the bass at high volumes or boost it at low volumes. It's not an issue with the mini.

 

There is one issue with the MINI Non-HiFi outputs though and that is the roll off of the signal below 100 hz going to the rear speakers. This is very very well documented in this thead.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ust-do-it.html

and if you are adding an amp you really wont to make sure you swap the outputs so that you can get the sound right.

 

Yes, this is one of the many things the PXE-H650 is intended to correct. What it cannot correct is filtering that varies with volume. That is why with some cars, if you add a unit like this or a cleansweep, you need to use the second volume control. Like I said, not an issue with the mini.

 

Since there is no real processing in the stock head, there is no need to use the AntEQ part which is volume dependant... is this correct? All I want to do is connect the front speaker leads to the H650 and use just the MultiEQ portion of it for eq, time alignment and the crossovers to tune the system with the new setup.

I don't want to degrade the signal if can avoid it, which is what I would like to avoid using a line output converter, but from the info in the thread so I far, there should be no need to. Thanks guys!!

I haven't purchased the tweeters yet. It's just going to be a mid and tweeter up front. Once I figure out what amp and the number of channels (4, 5 or 6), I'll figure out what speakers and whether to put the tweeter in the door or the A-pillar. I have a set of Genesis P69s for the for stock locations in the rear so far. We'll see what happens.

If you can get a pic of the back of the tweeter or A pillar, that would be great.

 

Are you going active?

The Genesis are subs correct?

Tweeter in the door would not be ideal as you probably already know.

 

Still undecided. It's my brothers car actually, I'm just piecing together a system for him. He gives me money, I get to put in whatever I want. It's a pretty good deal. I have a budget of $800-1000 max for processing and amps and the 'H650 takes up a large chunk of it. If I were to not use it the H650, active would definitely be affordable, but I think I would rather have the processor in the install. I'm leaning towards a nice 4 channel right and running passives. I'd love to throw Tru Billet and a set of Dynaudio 242s there. I've been given the OK to mount the equipment in the hatch and build a false floor since that dip is useless anyway. Originally, it was going to be an Arc ks125.4 mini under the seat, but the DSC is there and the fact processing is so cheap nowadays complicated things. I'm also worried dirt or something will get into the amp through the fan.

How much is the left rear sidepanel that covers the premium amp? does anyone have dimensions what you might be able to fit? There a spot on the right side of the hatch with a access panel which the H650 could mount.

Yes, they're the 6x9"s. On the instruction sheet, it said the pair was almost equal to a 10" sub. With a bunch of deadening and some clean power going to them they should sound pretty kickass. They the 8 ohm pair to so it would give me the most flexibility when it comes to the amps which are still yet to be determined.

I know about the tweeter, but on the other hand, if I was running passive up front, I'd want to have the tweeter closer to the woofer because they should ideally be mounted close together for "best" or intended tonality. But the tweeter is too close. In the A pillars, a perfect spot because of the height, especially when going active, but if you want to be negative about that location, they're the old saying "what reflects off glass, sounds like a$$..". You can really overthink things, as I have been or just try and remember processing can fix it and it's going to sound a LOT better than the premium factory set up.

 

oheightmc,

To answer your original question. i had measured the output of the head unit last summer that goes to the Premium Amp and it runs in the range of 8-10 volts at max volume (without clipping) on the MINI volume control.

So from looking at the input specs of the PEX-H650 you will need to use the Main Input (auto ranging input) not the AUX input.

From the Manual

Main Input. - Auto ranges and can accept up to 16vRMS

AUX Input - 1.5vRMS Primary Aux Off or 2.5vRMS Primary Aux On

Also from the manual:
AUTO RANGING INPUT - Use this input for the factory head unit. This input is 'auto ranging' to handle a wide range of factory head unit outputs. It will accept speaker or line level outputs. It has 5 input pairs for Front & Rear Left +/-, Right +/-, and Subwoofer +/-.

 

The anteq can undo the high-pass on the rear channels if that matters to you. I never bothered to even hook the rears up to the Alpine. All I use the rear channel for is the park-assist beep (which doesn't come through the front).

 

agreed

Dont forget the dash mat to help with reflections

I think the Polk Sr tweeter would be perfect in the a pillar , its small and sounds great.

I am going to try and fit a Focal Be tweeter in my A pillar. The crossover that comes with these speakers can accomodate any speaker setup so I am in good shape.

All in all I would say active is the way to go if you can swing it.

I really feel that door location for a tweeter is way to close to the ear, and you need some serious time correction to fix that. I would be intrested to see if the processing in the Alpine unit can address that problem, I have heard mixed things about its ability.

What amp or amps are thinking of going with?

 

probably going to pass on the dashmat because of the tackiness factor. i realize there's going to be some downside from having the tweeter so close to all that glass, but eq will fix it.

i believe the ring radiator is a vifa design. i've been looking at diy drivers off madisound for the tweeter if it end up going the active route. they're pretty cheap. if i go active, i don't want to spend more than $100 for the tweeter and $200-250 for a pair of nice woofers for a component set.

It's a budget system. I want to keep it at $1500 USD, but realize it's going to go over because of deadener and wiring and deadening ($350ish). I think i might end up using the current door location to keep it simple.

I'll figure out what amps to go with when my bro gives me more money, which hopefully will be soon since he did his taxes. I want to put something nice in the car.

 

There is a reason everyone who knows car audio will go with a A-pillar installation , it might not be perfect but it's the best place in a car. In an ideal situation most tweeters would work best with the tweeter aiming directly at one another in the A-pillar as close to ear level as possible.

The ring tweet is a vifa design as are all Polk speakers and most other brands , they usually make the speaker specifically to the companies design. Then there are some companies who just change the look of the speaker from Vifa and put there name on it.

Scan Speak is a upper tier Vifa if you are looking for some higher end speakers . I know you said you want to keep is inexpensive , you can get the Polks SR6500 off Ebay for about $350 ish .
A few things I really like about these speakers
1. They don't color the music at all the are very true to the music
2. They are slim and the crossovers are built really well and use good parts
3. For that amount of money I dont think you can't find a better speaker set.

What deading product are you going to use?
Are you going to use some Dynaxorbs or equivlent?

What brand of wiring?(please don't say monster)

I am really intrested to see how the Bi9 subs turn out. Have you used them before. I have never even given them a thought because they are oval and will guarantee some cone distortion. I have been proven wrong before on products I failed to give a chance in the past so maybe this might be the case here, sure would make system setup in the Mini easier. Keep us updated on this.

Do you have a list of amps you are looking at?

You mentioned a 4 channel is you go with a component set
So I assume you would go 5 or 6 channel with a active set to save money over a dual amp setup.

 

I'm going to end up putting the tweeters in the A pillar location using the oem A-pillar trim from the premium hi-fi setup. The panels are inexpensive and the location is a better choice overall than the door, not to mention there is going to be so much less fabrication as compared to mounting the tweeter in the door on a new plate.

I've been looking at the SPX17-PRO as one of the possibilities for a 2 way passive if i deceide to try out the ring radiators. Typhanny owns Vifa as well as Scan Speak and they make this set for Alpine. The passive crossovers are also interesting with the plug in tuning modules. They're priced a little less than the SR6500s and the tweeter is smaller.

Deadening, I'm not sure. I've been looking at the second skin product, right now I'm thinking 80 sq. ft of Damplifier and 45 sq. ft of Overkill pro. I'll probably put a piece of Dynaxorb or Cascade Deflex behind there for the sake of it. RCAs, I plan to just buy the raw ends and cut and solder my own lengths, I really want it to be a cleanly integrated install. Not sure what wire yet , but if I find Monster stuff for cheap to hack up, I'll jump on it.

I'm interested to see how these P69s turn out too. I remember years ago, I think it was back in '94 in college I had a buddy that had an '86 Olds Cutluss Supreme 2 door with an alpine tape deck, eq and a 40x2 amp going to a pair of alpine 6x9s in the back deck. With the happy face curve set on the eq, it sounded pretty loud and it pounded pretty hard playing Biggie. Sure, it wasn't real sub bass and not really accurate, but I'm sure with decent deadening and some clean power, the P69s will sound very good.

Amps? If it's the 4 channel passive route, amps that have crossed my mind are: DLS A4, Audison LRX4.5 and Tru Technology Billet 475/4100 provided I can find them for cheap.

I'd rather do a single amp and complicate things less, but even if it is a 4 channel, there's always the option of adding another amp... well, maybe not because they might not be any room....

What is your setup?

 

Have you checked the dealers price for the HIFI A pillars ? they might be a little less. I agree with the A-pillar for sure that will be the route I go when my install time comes.

Wow its been a little while since I have been in the car audio world , I did not know Alpine was doing a lower end speaker based on the Alpine F#1 Status line. We used to sell the F#1 equipment and although it was pricey it was very nice . The driver still looks like the revelator driver from Scan Speak used in many crazy high home speakers. If those speakers are anything like there big brother they will be a good choice (still would want to look at the crossovers and hear them )

Good job on putting a Deflex in, that is by far the best money you can spend in car audio, in many cases when I put them in you could actually feel the Midbass hitting your leg after we installed them. I had a chance to compare with and without on a few occasions and it was a night and day difference .
I have had very bad luck with off brand sound deadner vs dynamat. I would love to find a more cost effective solution, however on my install I will be going with Black Hole http://www.blackhole-america.com/ this is a step above the other brands in dampening.
I really hate Monster mainly because they love to sue people and there product is cr@p for what you pay
I like the idea you ar making your own RCA's thats awesome

I remember back in the day too putting 4 and 6 packs in the back of Cadillacas and Oldsmobiles , oh those were the days . I put together some systems back then I would never admit to doing today

As far as amps go I have been in contact with many high end brands the last amp setup I had in my car was Audison VRX6420 and a Audison VRX1500. I like theses amps they were clean just seemed to lack b@lls.
I recently switched to STEG and WOW best amp I have ever installed or used I highly recommend to give them a look

My setup is
Focal Be kit 6
Steg K402 (4 channel 110 X 4)
Steg K203 (mono its like 900 W at 4ohms )
I will probably sell off the sub amp and stay with the big 4 channel it should do they job just fine , if not I will Bi-amp the Be kit 6.
I just sold my 13" k series Focal sub 33kx and I am not sure what sub I will go with when I do my Mini install. I am leaning towards focal BE 8" sub or possibly going with 2 6" W3 JL Audio subs(I dont think these wil make me happy though)
for processing I am not sure just yet, I was looking at the Alpine but I have heard nothing good about it yet.
All of my RCA cables are Audioquest and I am not sure what speaker wire I am going with just yet.

I want to keep it clean and as factory as possible

 

^
I haven't had a chance to look into the A pillars yet. I'm still waiting for money to make the next purchase, whatever it may be, hopefully I can get the ball rolling on it soon.

As far as a component set goes, I think the SPX17 PRO is the top contender right now if i go with a passive front stage. running active is secondary, i want to put an h650 in in regardless. I think pre F#1, in the mid 90s, Dynaudio made some sets for Alpine, or was it Vifa/Scan. I had a coworker who used to work for Alpine back in the day. I've been out of car audio for a while myself.

I'll look into the blackhole deadner.

I haven't looked into the Steg, its kinda new for north america and being in canada distribution for car audio brands is limited.

As for a processor, you could also consider the Zapco DSP6SL. I'm not liking what I have been reading about the Bit-One. I'm running Zapco DC reference amps in my own set up which is why it's not going to be an option for the Mini build.

You can get a lot of output out of a pair of 6" subs. A few years ago, a co-worker had JL Audio give him dimension for a ported enclosure a pair of 6W04s. the box was less than a cube for both. With a clean 150 watts going to them, it hit 131 dB in at a local competition in this crx.