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I purchased my first MINI at Global Imports MINI in Atlanta Georgia in May of 2015. She had around 9000 miles on her and it was love at first sight. She's had a few track weekends since then, a few road trips to California and Wyoming. A few adventures camping on the beach in Florida. For the last couple of years, I have been slowly transitioning her away from daily driving and into a more track-focused car. My ultimate goal is to compete in NASA's Time Trial series and to use this car to gain experience for wheel-to-wheel. So this is my thread. I'll update the list and photos as things change.
Mods (as of 16 July 21):
Current weight: 2525lbs (full fuel tank, no driver)
Current power: 245.43 WHP
Drivetrain:
BSH Lower motor mount with D.I.Y. 80A urethane bushing Replaced with new BSH bushing
Stock motor mounts filled with 3M Window Weld (Have a set of stock mounts that I have filled with 80A that will go in eventually)
BSH Dual Boost tap (feeds boost data to Stack Boost gauge and AEM WMI controller)
JCW MAP Sensors (PN: 13627633663 and 13627633664)
RPM Stage 3 Tune
Prototype-R Stage III tune (As of 16 July 21 this is a WIP. Base tune has been loaded data collection has begun.)
NGK 1422 Spark plugs
Borg Warner JCW K03-2074D turbo (PN:5303-988-0146)
mQubed 43/56 turbo (@22 PSI) <failed, replaced with a second mQubed turbo that also failed. Absolutely would not recommend it for anything other than commuter use.
Forge N18 Recirc valve <this thing has been a constant source of boost leaks.
mQubed catless downpipe (ceramic coated and DEI Titanium wrapped)
Scorpion JCW Challenge exhaust (70mm/2.75'")
ARP Connecting rod bolts
Updated “new” OEM diverter valve (part #11658636606) with Alta spring
Torque Solutions blow off valve adapter plate
Stainless oil feed line re-routed over the cold side of the turbo with additional DEI titanium sheath
DEI Reflectagold tape on intake tube, under hood above turbo, and on valve cover near turbo
Silicon boost tubes
WayMotorWorks Turbo Blanket
K&N Apollo bulkhead mounted intake (Defenders of Speed clone)
eBay clone Wagner Competition intercooler
AEM WMI Injection (Direct port set up Using Prometh nozzles. 4x 32 cc nozzles injecting into the intake runners and 1x 157cc nozzle injecting into the charge pipe) running 100% water
AEM WMI Solenoid
Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40
Motul Sport 5w40
Motul 300V Power 5w40
Suspension:
KW V2 (WMW spec rebound set 15 clicks from full stiff front and 9 clicks from full stiff rear)
Ireland Engineering adjustable camber plates (street/track currently set at 2.5 -3 degrees "stage 3" race plates set @ -3 degrees.)
Ireland Engineering adjustable end-links (front and rear)
Ireland Engineering 22mm hollow rear sway bar (set to middle) w/poly bushings
Ireland Engineering upper and lower rear control arms (currently set at 1.5 -2.5 degrees camber)
H&R 27mm front sway bar
Powerflex black front control arm bushes
Powerflex yellow rear shock top bushes
VIP Customs strut tower brace
3mm total toe out (front) 4mm total toe in (rear)
Brakes:
JCW Brake kit (Brembo 4-pot)
Ireland Engineering Stainless Steel Lines
Motul RBF 600
Hawk HP+ up front
Hawk HPS rear
Hawk DTC-60 front and rear
Wheels:
Konig Hyper Gram 17x8 ET+45
Hankook Ventus RS-4 225/45 zr17 < literally seconds faster around a track than the R888Rs. 30 PSI is the sweet spot.
So last weekend at Road Atlanta went pretty well. However, on Sunday I noticed some irregularities in boost pressure. This week I tracked it down to a cracked diverter valve. Since this is the second time I’ve cracked a DV, I figured it was time to upgrade. I ordered a Forge recirc valve through WMW and had it in hand about 72 hours later. Not bad. Install was pretty straight forward with minor trimming required on the forge supplied electrical connector.
The next fun thing was the auxiliary water pump. This is the second time I have had to replace this part. The best I can guess is that I spilled a little too much oil on it last week when I did an oil and filter change prior to going to RA. I’ve learned a lesson here: place some sort of absorbent pad underneath the filter prior to removal. At least this didn’t cost me anything. The first time I replaced it I ordered an OEM unit through FCP Euro. FCP Euro has a life time replacement policy, so all I had to do was order a new one. I’ll send the old one back on Monday and receive a full refund for the new part. You can’t really beat that. Pretty much anything MINI OEM that I buy comes from there. This works out really good with the TTY one time use bolts for the motor mount. Any how, enough with the sales pitch.
The Forge unit is working pretty good so far, but boost is building a little slow and not hitting 22lbs. I probably need to make some wastegate adjustments since I had the downpipe and wastegate rod off to troubleshoot the turbo. And yes, I noticed the cracked DV after I took everything apart. Luckily Mario was right there to walk me through the troubleshooting process. He said it was probably the DV and he was right.
Another thing I’ve learned: for every twenty minutes on track, you are going to spend a minimum of two hours either the week before or the week after doing maintenance. Definitely a trade I’m willing to make.
Apparently 22lbs is too much. So this is twice now. Not fun.
Last edited by scotty_r56s; 08-05-2020 at 05:30 AM.
Is that build list a plan, or what you have already done?
I had a fair bit of fun fitting 17x8 wheels over the JCW Brembos, and the outcome is here.
I am now running A052 225/45-17 Yoks, and have a touch of rub at 10 and 2 out back, no issues up front.
Wheel/tire clearance to the struts is tight, but not an issue (~3 mm or so), and that's with the OEM struts, the Bilstein B8, and the KW V2 (JCW Pro Coilover kit).
So if you can get those rims to clear the brakes, then I'd advise no spacers - certainly not out back. Have you trimmed the fender liners at all?
What alignment are you running? How much does she weigh? Any dyno pulls?
I look forward to more stories and experiences - good luck!
Is that build list a plan, or what you have already done?
I had a fair bit of fun fitting 17x8 wheels over the JCW Brembos, and the outcome is here.
I am now running A052 225/45-17 Yoks, and have a touch of rub at 10 and 2 out back, no issues up front.
Wheel/tire clearance to the struts is tight, but not an issue (~3 mm or so), and that's with the OEM struts, the Bilstein B8, and the KW V2 (JCW Pro Coilover kit).
So if you can get those rims to clear the brakes, then I'd advise no spacers - certainly not out back.
I look forward to more stories and experiences - good luck!
Cheers,
Charlie
It’s a list of what is currently on the car.
The spacers were absolutely necessary for me to clear the front coil over spring perch and rear trailing arm.
Another thing I’ve learned: for every twenty minutes on track, you are going to spend a minimum of two hours either the week before or the week after doing maintenance. Definitely a trade I’m willing to make.
I don’t spend the twenty minutes on the track, but I can tell you I spend hours a week on the mini, from cleaning, checking oil, etc. Wife just busted my ***** about it, but let’s face it, working from home allows one the time to do it. My car is always ready for whatever I might through at it, then again I do have a the n14 so better safe than sorry.
Did you get the spring kit for the Forge valve? The valve kit only comes with the small spring, and they make different springs for higher boost applications. Running 22psi, you should have either the blue or yellow spring:
Did you get the spring kit for the Forge valve? The valve kit only comes with the small spring, and they make different springs for higher boost applications. Running 22psi, you should have either the blue or yellow spring:
I don’t spend the twenty minutes on the track, but I can tell you I spend hours a week on the mini, from cleaning, checking oil, etc. Wife just busted my ***** about it, but let’s face it, working from home allows one the time to do it. My car is always ready for whatever I might through at it, then again I do have a the n14 so better safe than sorry.
It’s definitely a labor of love. My R53 has yet to see a track, but if I even casually glance in her direction my knuckles start bleeding and parts fall off.
Just did a track day yesterday at LRP. Car did well. The driver is still a work in work in progress. A half day event with 2 run groups, 3 - 30 min sessions each, then a one hour open track at the end of the day. I did about half of each of those. 91 deg out. Drink fluids, drink, drink, drink... oop, still not enough...
So now I have a rattle I didn’t used to have, that comes and goes. I guess that is my 2+ hr after track work to chase down.
Then there was the road ‘gator I ran over, that I need to check for damage from. Ugh!
2 more things for your list...
A mechanical LSD - Quaife or Wav Trac (not sure about spelling) for the street/track. For outright racing, maybe a disk type.
A Scan Gauge II. This will read out oil temp, which will help with keeping an eye on the aux water pump. Oil temps take off when that goes. But oil temps run high on these no mater what. 230 deg F on the highway and pushing 270 on the track on a hot day.
Brakes...
The R56 is the worst. There is no way to get cooling (ducting) to them. If you take the dust shield off, you run the risk of cracked rotors, as I did. Too much cooling on the inside of the rotor and not enough on the outside. This lead to cracking on the outside of my rotors. I have customized my dust shields to channel air into the base of the rotor vanes. I have also gone to a custom 1” thick rotor. Seems to be working for track days.
Your JCW brakes should serve you well, but watch for chipping of the caliper pistons. They are made of a sintered material which has been known to fail. Just keep an eye on those. There are SS pistons that you can get, but they are $$. If you get into racing and find you need better, I can suggest a couple of options depending on rules and where you want to go.
Just did a track day yesterday at LRP. Car did well. The driver is still a work in work in progress. A half day event with 2 run groups, 3 - 30 min sessions each, then a one hour open track at the end of the day. I did about half of each of those. 91 deg out. Drink fluids, drink, drink, drink... oop, still not enough...
So now I have a rattle I didn’t used to have, that comes and goes. I guess that is my 2+ hr after track work to chase down.
Then there was the road ‘gator I ran over, that I need to check for damage from. Ugh!
2 more things for your list...
A mechanical LSD - Quaife or Wav Trac (not sure about spelling) for the street/track. For outright racing, maybe a disk type.
A Scan Gauge II. This will read out oil temp, which will help with keeping an eye on the aux water pump. Oil temps take off when that goes. But oil temps run high on these no mater what. 230 deg F on the highway and pushing 270 on the track on a hot day.
Brakes...
The R56 is the worst. There is no way to get cooling (ducting) to them. If you take the dust shield off, you run the risk of cracked rotors, as I did. Too much cooling on the inside of the rotor and not enough on the outside. This lead to cracking on the outside of my rotors. I have customized my dust shields to channel air into the base of the rotor vanes. I have also gone to a custom 1” thick rotor. Seems to be working for track days.
Your JCW brakes should serve you well, but watch for chipping of the caliper pistons. They are made of a sintered material which has been known to fail. Just keep an eye on those. There are SS pistons that you can get, but they are $$. If you get into racing and find you need better, I can suggest a couple of options depending on rules and where you want to go.
Enjoy and motor on...
Awesome advice as always, Eddie. 100% agree on the Scangauge. Mine is set up to show oil temp, water temp, A/F ratio and IAT.
If hit right, those gators can do some real damage, hope everything is okay.
Picked up some new seats from a friend that was upgrading. Now I just need side mounts, Planted bases, a couple six points and a half cage!
Last edited by scotty_r56s; 06-25-2020 at 12:35 PM.
06-18-2020, 12:20 PM
