Surprised finding these after market parts!
#1
Surprised finding these after market parts!
While missing too much my last year sold 2016 JCW, I just flew from Santa Fe [NM] to Las Vegas, NV, to buy this 2017 JCW with low mileage [17,500 miles] and the options I always wanted such as the Harmon/Kardon system, paddle shift and heads up display. This will be a keeper for sure.
What surprised me is how clean the under carriage is [maybe never driven in the rain?] and finding NM part# 328846, Aluminum Rear Control Arms, 1 1/4" diameter versus the stock 1", in the rear. [$369.95 + labor]. Found those parts while the car up on the rack for new Yokohama Advan Sport A/S tires which are fantastic, the run-flats being the most annoying aspect of the car.
I am of course wondering why? I have to say that considering the price I paid, the Subaru Dealer had no clue what they were selling! The Manager, while taking it together for a test ride, was actually shocked at the performance of the car and its amenities. I kept quiet not bragging about the qualities of that car! Did not even haggle the price. Took me months to find this car as I never stopped looking for one after selling my 2016 which was manual and painful on my new hips and spine plate and screws!!!
Anyhow, maybe some will enlighten me even though, from NM website
"Helm Joint (Pillow Ball Rod End) may generate some noise for its lack of rubber bushing while still performing normally."
What surprised me is how clean the under carriage is [maybe never driven in the rain?] and finding NM part# 328846, Aluminum Rear Control Arms, 1 1/4" diameter versus the stock 1", in the rear. [$369.95 + labor]. Found those parts while the car up on the rack for new Yokohama Advan Sport A/S tires which are fantastic, the run-flats being the most annoying aspect of the car.
I am of course wondering why? I have to say that considering the price I paid, the Subaru Dealer had no clue what they were selling! The Manager, while taking it together for a test ride, was actually shocked at the performance of the car and its amenities. I kept quiet not bragging about the qualities of that car! Did not even haggle the price. Took me months to find this car as I never stopped looking for one after selling my 2016 which was manual and painful on my new hips and spine plate and screws!!!
Anyhow, maybe some will enlighten me even though, from NM website
"Helm Joint (Pillow Ball Rod End) may generate some noise for its lack of rubber bushing while still performing normally."
#4
Yes, as you say, nice little "bonus"... Thanks for the reply and enlightening me while excuse me for my ignorance. I am more, or have been [!!!] a motorcycle rider... [Ducatis and BMWs mainly... those were the days!!!]
#6
The scoop decals below the hood, well, I mounted them by mistake [don't ask!] and so waiting for another set for the scoops under the headlights. I will leave those on however. Maybe the Company will actually make some for my mistake!
I really did not like the red exterior mirror covers but I can handle them now with the additional decals and will even more when the other set comes in. It creates a decent optical continuity... To me anyhow! Will post a picture when they come in. Great quality product I must say.
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ECSTuning (04-02-2019)
#7
This car has not been lowered so I have no clue why they were changed. One owner and no accidents either... Thanks for the photos.
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#9
Excuse my ignorance but what is the "beltline"? Always been more of a motorcycle rider... [and sidecar! When my great Dog and Buddy "Spirit was around until a year ago...]
Spirit and I on a cold winter day in Big Bend, Texas. Full time camping for 14 years! 5000+ nights in the tent...
Spirit and I on a cold winter day in Big Bend, Texas. Full time camping for 14 years! 5000+ nights in the tent...
#11
#13
Keep an eye on the Heim Joints.
Racers normally check them after every race, replaced at least once a year.
Depending on the construction...ball material, race material, housing design and material they could last 6 months, they could last a year of daily driving.
I just bought a pair for my R53. I specifically...did not buy a design with Heim Joints..! Race race car, yes, street car...not my first or second choice.
Yea, yea...I know, someone's had this style on his/her car for the last 32 years and they are fine...! STILL, NOT a good choice for daily driving.
Mike
Racers normally check them after every race, replaced at least once a year.
Depending on the construction...ball material, race material, housing design and material they could last 6 months, they could last a year of daily driving.
I just bought a pair for my R53. I specifically...did not buy a design with Heim Joints..! Race race car, yes, street car...not my first or second choice.
Yea, yea...I know, someone's had this style on his/her car for the last 32 years and they are fine...! STILL, NOT a good choice for daily driving.
Mike
#14
Keep an eye on the Heim Joints.
Racers normally check them after every race, replaced at least once a year.
Depending on the construction...ball material, race material, housing design and material they could last 6 months, they could last a year of daily driving.
I just bought a pair for my R53. I specifically...did not buy a design with Heim Joints..! Race race car, yes, street car...not my first or second choice.
Yea, yea...I know, someone's had this style on his/her car for the last 32 years and they are fine...! STILL, NOT a good choice for daily driving.
Mike
Racers normally check them after every race, replaced at least once a year.
Depending on the construction...ball material, race material, housing design and material they could last 6 months, they could last a year of daily driving.
I just bought a pair for my R53. I specifically...did not buy a design with Heim Joints..! Race race car, yes, street car...not my first or second choice.
Yea, yea...I know, someone's had this style on his/her car for the last 32 years and they are fine...! STILL, NOT a good choice for daily driving.
Mike
Unfortunately they came with the car. Of course I have no idea why the previous owner, especially if he knew what you know, installed them. They are not cheap... I doubt anything happened to the stock one throughout the 17,000 miles.
I will keep an eye on them if indeed "heim" joints are the ends.
Many Thanks.
Edit: just researched "heim joint" ad now understand what it is... Hope they hold up!
#15
Beltline (automotive) The beltline is a line representing the bottom edge of a vehicle's glass panels (eg windscreen, side windows and rear window). It also represents the bottom of a vehicle's glasshouse. This definition is found on all cars, regardless of vehicle body style.
Hopes this explains that term some.
A lot of cars keep getting their beltlines higher and higher, Like the newest Camaros can feel like you are Driving a bathtub.
Hopes this explains that term some.
A lot of cars keep getting their beltlines higher and higher, Like the newest Camaros can feel like you are Driving a bathtub.
#16
If you flew from SF, then you are in my neighborhood. I'll keep an eye out for your new JCW. You may want to check out MINI in the Mountains this July. It is in Salida, CO. It was in Steamboat Springs two years ago (alternating with MINI Takes the States) and we had a good time. Look it up or PM me. By the way, I have a metallic black with blue "beltline" and trim. Sean at SF MINI is a good service manager and can be trusted.
#17
Beltline (automotive) The beltline is a line representing the bottom edge of a vehicle's glass panels (eg windscreen, side windows and rear window). It also represents the bottom of a vehicle's glasshouse. This definition is found on all cars, regardless of vehicle body style.
Hopes this explains that term some.
A lot of cars keep getting their beltlines higher and higher, Like the newest Camaros can feel like you are Driving a bathtub.
Hopes this explains that term some.
A lot of cars keep getting their beltlines higher and higher, Like the newest Camaros can feel like you are Driving a bathtub.
If you flew from SF, then you are in my neighborhood. I'll keep an eye out for your new JCW. You may want to check out MINI in the Mountains this July. It is in Salida, CO. It was in Steamboat Springs two years ago (alternating with MINI Takes the States) and we had a good time. Look it up or PM me. By the way, I have a metallic black with blue "beltline" and trim. Sean at SF MINI is a good service manager and can be trusted.
#19
Keep an eye on the Heim Joints.
Racers normally check them after every race, replaced at least once a year.
Depending on the construction...ball material, race material, housing design and material they could last 6 months, they could last a year of daily driving.
I just bought a pair for my R53. I specifically...did not buy a design with Heim Joints..! Race race car, yes, street car...not my first or second choice.
Yea, yea...I know, someone's had this style on his/her car for the last 32 years and they are fine...! STILL, NOT a good choice for daily driving.
Mike
Racers normally check them after every race, replaced at least once a year.
Depending on the construction...ball material, race material, housing design and material they could last 6 months, they could last a year of daily driving.
I just bought a pair for my R53. I specifically...did not buy a design with Heim Joints..! Race race car, yes, street car...not my first or second choice.
Yea, yea...I know, someone's had this style on his/her car for the last 32 years and they are fine...! STILL, NOT a good choice for daily driving.
Mike
#20
NM sells rubber boots to cover the joints and keep grit and dirt out. I've had my NM control arms for ~ three years now. Every time I change the oil I lube the RSB grease fittings and check the control arms. The boots are holding up well and there is no noticeable play in the joints. Alignment stays spot on. But, as Mike said, YMMV.
#21
When you get the exhaust done it would be a good time to add the boots since it’ll be on the lift anyway. Tip: you probably want to lube the opening of the boot to ease the install. Those suckers are tight!
its an easy job if you want to DIY. A lift makes it a piece of cake. All you do is remove the mounting bolts at each end, install the boots a reinstall. You won’t affect the alignment.
its an easy job if you want to DIY. A lift makes it a piece of cake. All you do is remove the mounting bolts at each end, install the boots a reinstall. You won’t affect the alignment.
#22
When you get the exhaust done it would be a good time to add the boots since it’ll be on the lift anyway. Tip: you probably want to lube the opening of the boot to ease the install. Those suckers are tight!
its an easy job if you want to DIY. A lift makes it a piece of cake. All you do is remove the mounting bolts at each end, install the boots a reinstall. You won’t affect the alignment.
its an easy job if you want to DIY. A lift makes it a piece of cake. All you do is remove the mounting bolts at each end, install the boots a reinstall. You won’t affect the alignment.
Would it be 4 boots? One for each end or just two? I am sure there is also a torque setting to know which of course NM would know.
Yes, it would be great for the boots to be here at the same time of the exhaust because honestly I won't do it! I am great in the kitchen as a 5 Star Chef but mechanically too challenged...
EDIT: 4 boots! Worth the price for sure...
NM.321070NM Eng. Rod End Boot Kit$45.00
I actually wonder why for that price the previous owner did not get them! I know "boots" from motorcycling and they are a must...
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