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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
If it were me, I'd look for a right angle adaptor for the USB pluggie. Lifetime of Murphy's Law attraction due to Murphy in my DNA speaking here. Lower profile, less likely to snag on something and break....
Over the past month; I've been perplexed and aggravated over an obnoxious exhaust/catalytic converter(?) rattle. I've been throwing throwing money at this thing trying to resolve the issue to no avail.
So far - I had replaced all the exhaust hangers, JB Extreme heat welded a non existent separation at the CAT and upgraded/replaced the lower engine mount with powerflex bushings.
Finally - I had taken my Mini to a small indie garage and had it up on a lift. It was decided that the internals of the CAT were likely to have come loose.....Possibly due to excessive vibration....(in which I never really felt)....
So here I am in my last ditch effort (before buying a new CAT), to once again try an upgrade to my engine mounts.in hopes to avoid further damage...
Today replaced my (suspected) 13k mi, worn out upper engine mount with a Vibra Technics....
As usual - having no place to work on my Mini, I found a nice truck stop that allowed wayward travelers to make emergency repairs in their parking lot...
^^^Pictured: Is a URO brand upper engine mount that seems to have failed in under 13k miles. - ^^^Out with the old in with the new Vibra Technics
Ooh, look how shiny!^^^
Even though I have heard/read claims that more vibration is apparent with the Vibra Technics (at idle) - So far I haven't felt anything noticeable or unsettling.
So I decided to take my Mini out for a "quick" 190mi round-trip test drive....
Wow - WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
I really never felt any unusual (if any) vibration with that previous URO upper engine mount. But the proof is indisputable between the 2wo.
All feels really "tight, responsive and "connected". The Mini feels so much "smoother" with the Vibra mount.
Best of all - the obnoxious exhaust rattle is barely audible (only at start -up), (if at all) and is non existent after warm-up and while driving.
Last edited by Here2Go; Sep 12, 2025 at 09:22 AM.
Reason: 190 mile round-trip test drive
Today replaced my (suspected) 13k mi, worn out upper engine mount with a Vibra Technics....
All feels really "tight, responsive and "connected". The Mini feels so much "smoother" with the Vibra mount.
Best of all - the obnoxious exhaust rattle is barely audible (only at start -up), (if at all) and is non existent after warm-up and while driving.
I love mine! I converted from the pre-facelift engine mount to the newer style because I got a fantastic deal on one of these, and liked it so much, I got their trans mount as well when it was due. Odd one out is the BSH bottom mount. No need to update that which was already fixed prior, so an odd set it is. Works great, tho. "Connected" is the exact right word....
So I took her to get her insurance quote done, if they fix the 2 small dents and paint and replace my rear bumper, they would consider it a total loss, at 25% of what its value is. If they get a new bumper, paint it, and replace it, looking at $1500, with me having to come up with $500 of that and hoping to get it from State Farm or small claims. Last option is come up with $300 and replace it with a used black rear bumper. So I’m probably going to have to come up with $300 and take care of everything myself. I know this is a long shot, but I have opened a go fund me for her replacement. Can’t hurt to ask. Link - https://gofund.me/462ffe333
So I took her to get her insurance quote done, if they fix the 2 small dents and paint and replace my rear bumper, they would consider it a total loss, at 25% of what its value is....
Yep - Insurance companies S*CK!
They've seemed to be running the country in the last 40years.
On a more personal experience/note: The insurance companies had tried to total (someone else at fault), 3 of my custom built/one-of- a-kind vehicles due to their original age, regardless of the restored/modified/updated condition and $15k reciepts I could present as proof. I lost the battle each time and had to haggle with the assessor to come to a reasonable amount to "pay me off" and "have me go away" without totaling the cars without having to salvage title them.
Big PIA having to deal with them/claims, when it was their insured driver thar caused the wreck in the first place.
Sorry you're having to go through this with your Mini.
Yep - Insurance companies S*CK!
They've seemed to be running the country in the last 40years.
On a more personal experience/note: The insurance companies had tried to total (someone else at fault), 3 of my custom built/one-of- a-kind vehicles due to their original age, regardless of the restored/modified/updated condition and $15k reciepts I could present as proof. I lost the battle each time and had to haggle with the assessor to come to a reasonable amount to "pay me off" and "have me go away" without totaling the cars without having to salvage title them.
Big PIA having to deal with them/claims, when it was their insured driver thar caused the wreck in the first place.
Sorry you're having to go through this with your Mini.
it will be damn near impossible to find an 05-06 with chrono, black interior, black leather, and lsd for what they would give me. I’ve been looking and I’m looking 8500-9000 to get a replacement R53 of the same caliber and hopefully an lsd.
Have a trade worked out, so this won’t be too bad I guess. Had a brand new oem oil filter housing/cooler sitting in the garage collecting dust, picked it up a couple years ago, for a steal nonetheless. She’s to nice to be parted or have a salvage title, and let’s face it, insurance would get a pretty stripped down car anyway, they want a “4000” car I’ll give them what is considered 4k worth of R53 🤣
Yep - Insurance companies S*CK!
They've seemed to be running the country in the last 40years.
On a more personal experience/note: The insurance companies had tried to total (someone else at fault), 3 of my custom built/one-of- a-kind vehicles due to their original age, regardless of the restored/modified/updated condition and $15k reciepts I could present as proof. I lost the battle each time and had to haggle with the assessor to come to a reasonable amount to "pay me off" and "have me go away" without totaling the cars without having to salvage title them.
Big PIA having to deal with them/claims, when it was their insured driver thar caused the wreck in the first place.
Sorry you're having to go through this with your Mini.
They are eager to total cars because the parts are worth a lot of $$$$, even on vanilla cars.... State Farm is one of the worst....
Looks great! I need to get off my butt and find a clean front bumper cover for my BRG. One of these days. Current one got looking too chippy, so I PlastiDipped it ages ago to cover and keep it from getting any worse....
Preface: Powerflex is good stuff - no doubt.
But one may ask; How much Powerflex is too much powerflex?
Well lemme tell ya my take...
Yesterday, I changed out my upper Strut mount vibration dampener and added the powerflex inserts.
What a PIA.
It should go without saying; In order to add the inserts the entire bracket and mount assembly needs to come out.
Not only that, but because the poly inserts and washers are so thick, I had to physically spread the stabilizer mounting bracket wide enough to allow the inserts to slide in between the space where the mount fits in.
This was accomplished by improvising 2wo small blocks of wood, a wedge and hammer.
Finally assembled on the ground, the whole assembly needs to be wiggled its way back into position.
However, Not before inserting the 2wo outer most bolts into the bracket. It is impossible to get those bolts into their respective mounting holes on to the body = (The bracket is in the way).
Pictured above: Circled in red - These 2wo outer most bolts must be put in their respective mounting holes before mounting the bracket assembly to the car.
Final installation - all torqued down and ready for a test drive...
Wholy cr*p!!!
Now, I must mention that all my engine and trans mounts are powerflex or Vibra Tecnics...
Honestly, I'd never thought that tower strut mount really did anything with respect to stabalizing and vibration. BUT - NOW having a new vibration mount coupled with the powerflex inserts - has proven me wrong. The new strut tower powerflex set-up caused so much NVH that made driving my Mini so unbearable. It can only be best described as constant RUMBLING - Especially at low rpms and letting out the clutch.
This morning I removed the powerflex inserts.
Ahhh, Back to normal. No more Rumbling
Moral of this story: Too much of a good thing can really be a bad thing!
I agree with you. There can be too much. At least on the second gen cars, the torque mount is the only one that NEEDS to be stiffened up. I had that one filled with the PowerFlex insert almost from the time I bought the car. After a number of years, I finally had to replace the passenger side engine mount, and I added the PowerFlex insert at the same time. Instant regret as soon as I started the car after the install. Throttle response was improved, but at the cost of more noise and rumbling vibrations. It was so bad that I could hear the timing chain if the radio was off. Good on you for removing the insert. I chose to leave it in.
Trying to keep my 22y/o R53 looking like new (inside & out) has always been a labor of love. Since I've been out here in the desert; I literally wash my Mini every day. The dirt is that bad out here. I usually clean the engine and compartment twice a week. For that task I use a spray bottle of water to rinse the dirt/sand off and out of the nooks in addition to using several size make-up and a soft bristle toothbrush. Final wipe down - I use Meguires Supreme Shine protectant wipes on all plastic parts e.g: Intercooler cover, airbox, intake pipe, PS reservoir, etc...
The product is designed for interiors but works great on all plastic....Even use it in my exterior black trim/ side skirts and wheel arches. Engine bay detailing usually takes me about an 45min - 1hr...depending how bad the dust storms are out here.
Preface: Powerflex is good stuff - no doubt.
But one may ask; How much Powerflex is too much powerflex?
Well lemme tell ya my take...
Yesterday, I changed out my upper Strut mount vibration dampener and added the powerflex inserts.
What a PIA.
It should go without saying; In order to add the inserts the entire bracket and mount assembly needs to come out.
Not only that, but because the poly inserts and washers are so thick, I had to physically spread the stabilizer mounting bracket wide enough to allow the inserts to slide in between the space where the mount fits in.
This was accomplished by improvising 2wo small blocks of wood, a wedge and hammer.
Finally assembled on the ground, the whole assembly needs to be wiggled its way back into position.
However, Not before inserting the 2wo outer most bolts into the bracket. It is impossible to get those bolts into their respective mounting holes on to the body = (The bracket is in the way).
Pictured above: Circled in red - These 2wo outer most bolts must be put in their respective mounting holes before mounting the bracket assembly to the car.
Final installation - all torqued down and ready for a test drive...
Wholy cr*p!!!
Now, I must mention that all my engine and trans mounts are powerflex or Vibra Tecnics...
Honestly, I'd never thought that tower strut mount really did anything with respect to stabalizing and vibration. BUT - NOW having a new vibration mount coupled with the powerflex inserts - has proven me wrong. The new strut tower powerflex set-up caused so much NVH that made driving my Mini so unbearable. It can only be best described as constant RUMBLING - Especially at low rpms and letting out the clutch.
This morning I removed the powerflex inserts.
Ahhh, Back to normal. No more Rumbling
Moral of this story: Too much of a good thing can really be a bad thing!
When mine started to go, I carved out most of the rubber and solid filled it with 3M WindoWeld. It actually has a nice durometer for engine mount applications. Drove it for years. There was just enough of the original rubber left in it to avoid NVH problems, I guess. Since then, I got a SMOKIN' deal on a VibraTechnics mount for the facelift cars, and switched the engine mount over to that type....
When mine started to go, I carved out most of the rubber and solid filled it with 3M WindoWeld. It actually has a nice durometer for engine mount applications. Drove it for years. There was just enough of the original rubber left in it to avoid NVH problems, I guess. Since then, I got a SMOKIN' deal on a VibraTechnics mount for the facelift cars, and switched the engine mount over to that type....
I ran window weld filled mounts on my old Protege. Worked great. I went from OEM to inserts to solid race mounts to window weld filled. The window weld filled mounts offered the best balance between stiffness and NVH.
Window weld has been tried on the upper engine mount on the Gen 3 MINIs, with moderate success. Although, IMHO it is the softness of the lower engine mount that is the cause of the upper engine mount failure by allowing too much twisting of the upper mount. In the lower mount the yellow Power Flex bushing works really well, without N V.
Window weld has been tried on the upper engine mount on the Gen 3 MINIs, with moderate success. Although, IMHO it is the softness of the lower engine mount that is the cause of the upper engine mount failure by allowing too much twisting of the upper mount. In the lower mount the yellow Power Flex bushing works really well, without N V.
I "Just" installed the lower PowerFlex torque mount insert this morning. Looking forward to getting the car on the road to see how it works with the auto and All4.
Just waiting for some pieces to get back to me from the body shop, whoever painted it did a poor job prepping and the paint started to peel off. So I had to take it back and get it redone, also when taking the GP2 rear diffuser off I cracked/tore the bumper, thankfully they repaired it for free. So glad I sprung for the 5yr warranty.
During the downtime I finally adjusted my ride height and came to find out that the shop that installed the coils never set the preload on the springs so it rode horribly. Watched a video online and set the 5mm preload and now it's super smooth on the road. Even the wife noticed the difference. I have to post some new pics once the suspension settles.
