Interesting. I'd never thought about doing that.
It's been a while since I'd installed the OCC so I can't recall if I have a drain plug at the bottom in order for me to do the same.
The syringe method has worked well so far.
I change my oil often (every 3,500-4,000 mi). I park/back in on a slight decline and I have yet to suck out just a little more than a couple of tablespoons at every other interval.

It's now 45° outside.'might go back out and have another look at the OCC.

 

Rear window washer?

 

Didn't smell like it. Washer fluid also evaporates quickly and often leaves a bit of residue behind when it's a large quantity.

 

Well, not today but...

Here is what my OD read as of 12.31.2023. Almost made it to 100,000mi before I noticed after parking the car last Sunday afternoon.
This would mark the last mile I drove my Mini in 2023.

Should hit 100k the next time I run to the grocery store...this year.

 

Unfortunately I was caught off guard while driving to the Chevron station to top off before the 1/10 zero mark in order to snap the photo that I wanted.

Crappy pictures but
˅ ˅ ˅ ˅ ˅ ˅ ˅ ˅....






...overall, It's still not a bad looking 20.3 y/o car w/100k original miles on it's clock.

Thinkin' 'bout replacing that dingy looking, scored up radiator and a hood re-paint sometime this year....

 

Replaced leaking driver's side axle seal, and swapped in new shock mount bolts for the old rusty ones that I had to use when installing Bilsteins a few weeks ago.
Waiting on replacement power steering pump, as the reman unit that I installed has failed (won't turn off!). Will do that hopefully on Monday.

 

Wow - 300,000 miles!
All us 1st gen owners should be so lucky p

 

Installed a set of Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers over the weekend. Did a little adjusting on the rear today.
Think I'll leave it as is for the time being.

 

Installed replacement power steering pump and hose on the R50. Cleared code, test drove, all seems good. This one is quieter than the prior one that failed in less than 900 miles, so hopefully will last.

 

(paying homage to a classic line from the late great Rodney Dangerfieild)



Yesterday I updated my self-modified CAI, factory, filter box.

About 2wo years ago I had modified the factory air box to CAI with cobbled together shop vac attachments, I had plastic soldered together...
V V V V V V

At the time (when I initially modded the stock air box), I felt the (shop vac) inlet was sufficient at a 4"W mouth x 6"L x 1-7/8" ID "snorkel", positioned directly under the cowl vent.

Last year, I began modifying and assembling a pair of homemade front brake duct cooling set-up via this down spout outlet.




I had since decided brake duct cooling was really unnecessary for my needs/daily driver.


I decided I could still make use of this modified 7"w x 1-3/4" mouth x 2.1/2" OD downspout/"inlet" and re-purpose it for my airbox instead.





One of the other things I also wanted address; was to eliminate the use of a 2" PVC reducer pipe inserted into the intake side (sorry no pic), of the box which was previously used in order to adapt my 4"x6" K&N cone filter.
That PVC pipe made little sense as it's ID reduced the intake side from 2-¼" ID to 1-15/16" ID. So I got rid of it and ...


...Pictured above; I plastic soldered in a 2-1/4" length x 2-1/4" ID Polypropylene pipe as a replacement which offered continuous, unrestricted flow from the filter through to the intake.
Note: the light color product surrounding the base of the inlet connection is Apoxie Sculpt. Just to smooth things out.













Though I managed to get pretty close in cutting/contouring the "firewall" while mocking up the "snorkel", I still need to implement some foam rubber window gasket along it's edge
to finish off for a better seal. If not only for aesthetic reasons.

After installation, I took the Mini out for a quick spin to the car wash.
Was there a noticeable audible difference in SC whine? - You bet!
HP gain? - ???....I only conservatively boosted around 13psi since I was traversing semi residential roads and the cops were out monitoring traffic at each intersection where there were places of worship (every 1/2 mile).

On a side note: With respect to the debate over function of the cowl scoops (which I prefer not to get into); whether they actually serve or detract from air intake? ...All I can say is that since I had mounted them last year, I have indeed
noticed a significant amount of dust and small particles of debris behind my firewall than I had had prior.

I apologize for the (perhaps unnecessarily) looooong post.
Thanks for indulging me by playing along.

Edit / update: This afternoon I took the opportunity to warm up the car with the hood open. While warming up, idling @1,200 rpms, the sound of the intake sucking in air was so apparent. I had a coworker gently step on the gas to a moderate 2,200 rpm - Amazing how audible you can hear the air flow.

 

I took advantage of the weather yesterday and finished the last S Lite. Now I just need get it to work so I can swap the TPMS sensors over and put regular stems in the 16" wheels. I haven't had a chance to diagnose the water leak further.

 

Finished putting Alex’s Chili back together after diagnosing the emf issue as a failing alternator and replacing it. then getting to completely reinstall the Marshall matching e boost gauge. Again.

video shot by Alex.

 

Congrats!
Boy - you can still really hear the SC wind up even over the exhaust and video quality

 

This afternoon I finally decided to tackle a messy job I haven't had a chance to get around to.
I've been nursing a torn Right side, inner CV boot for about 6 months as well a badly worn inner balljoint.


I've never heard any clicking noise coming from the CV and the car always felt responsive. I've been monitoring its condition keeping it wrapped with 3.5" diam heat shrink
while occasionally pumping in fresh grease every so often. Yesterday I noticed the heat wrap had torn free and the boot had completely split.


I wasn't too concerned. I've always made sure the boot was wrapped to prevent dirt intrusion and packed with grease.


I also seized the "convenient" opportunity to finally change out the inner balljoint.


After a thorough cleaning and flushing out the old grease, the needle bearings spun freely and moved effortlessly.
I then temporarily reassembled/reinserted the axle to check or any unusual play and noise in the CV joint.


All good now. New inner CV boot, fresh grease and new inner balljoint - all torqued to spec.

Happy times.

I'll replace the Left inner balljoint this weekend.

 

Tried to outrun the sunset.


Spoiler alert: I didn’t.

 

Awesome pic @LA02MAX !

 

I hope you set that as your phone tablet computer background.

or printed and framed it. it’s worthy.

 

Yesterday (Thursday), it seemed like the weather was going to make for a pretty nice day to tackle replacing the (left) driver side inner balljoint and inner CV boot - So I went for it (instead of waiting for this weekend).
My Mini stays pretty clean, so everything seems pretty easy to work on...That is until the unthinkable happened....

After pulling the CV axle, I commenced to unbolt the worn out inner ball joint. I should have known better to re-bolt the outer balljoint to the support the control arm. Yep - the CA slipped out of the inner sleeve of the Powerflex CA bushing.


This may not look or seem like a big deal but...
After struggling for 2wo hours, it seemed impossible to be able to re-insert the CA shaft back into the hexagonal PF insert. It was dusk. Frustrated, I finally had to call it a night. I was all swore out.
Dismayed - I thought for sure I was going to have to lower the subframe.

ModMini to the rescue!

Today:
I had remembered Mod Mini's video on . After watching the segment while he re-inserted the CA into the bushing gave me the answer.


I improvised a tool to pop out the (purple) inner sleeve and re-assemble it back on to the end of the CA shaft ...


...and followed his method to get everything back in via use of a pry bar. Which took me no more than 20 minutes to accomplish.


The rest of the inner R&R all went smooth and by the numbers.

I'm happy to say that the last few (new) parts have been installed and my front-end is now 100% refreshed.

 

I’ve got new control arms and ball joints for my Clubman waiting to be installed. Probably try to get them done in the spring when it starts warming up.

 

Yeah. I got a story for everything....

After my last installment: having (successfully) replaced 2wo torn inner CV boots and 2wo worn inner balljoints; I noticed my steering wheel was a bit off center and was now aligned at 3.5 RPM on the tach.
A couple of days later - boom! - the tire and DSC light popped up on the clock.
After trying and failing to clear the fault with my Foxwell 510 elite, re tweaking the tie rods til the wheel was center and the toe was within 3/32"- 1/8" - the car drove straight but the DSC & tire light remained lit even after 30miles of driving.
It was time I followed .

*WARNING* - Drama Ahead...
**I should add that; I live in a "compartment" complex.

Although I didn't go as far as using PVC pipes for my "box"; I only had 2wo jackstands, a couple of 8"x16" hollow core concrete blocks and 50' of string.
I was all set up in the parking lot creating and dialing in my "string box" (sorry no pics), when as luck would have it; the superintendent came along. Apparently the association between concrete blocks and cars were "frowned upon".
It didn't matter to him that the car wasn't on blocks. The blocks were positioned behind my Mini with the string drawn through them with the other ends tied to the jackstands in front of the car. But the blocks were "present" regardless.

Long story short: I packed up and drove around until I found a nice level, secluded parking lot and proceeded with the string alignment (sorry no pics). It took me about 2-1/2 hours. Afterwards, the Foxwell still wouldn't resolve the fault even though the toe/alignment was within spec. Yet surprisingly enough on the way back to the complex, the DSC and tire lights went out by themselves within about 10mi down the road.

When I arrived back to my "compartment", I received a nicely typed, formal notice of infraction taped to my door.


Strung aligned and driving straight again with no DSC faults!

That's what I get for doing work on my Mini today.

 

Write in crayon, “**** you very much, show me the regulation against creating art.”

 

All I can say is I wish you were my neighbor!

 

So, it appears bad wheel alignment might trigger a tire and DSC fault? Hmmmm

 

I have no idea but In my case - apparently it did (?).
Well, here's the deal: I had my front end aligned twice since Sept of 2022. 1st) new tires, drop links / 2nd) outer balljoints, strut tower plates and Bilstein B14 coilovers.
Sept 2023 I had my trans replaced along with Powerflex CA bushings and Powerflex swaybar bushings. I rechecked the toe for alignment - all was within 3/32" - 1/8" , steering wheel remained center, car drove straight no pulling to right or left.
But I knew I would need an alignment after finally replacing the inner balljoints since everything else was new (within 6months).

I am no alignment expert but...
After replacing both inner balljoints I suspect it may have had a significant influence on the geometry of the front-end (?). E.g: the steering wheel off center and front toe was now off by nearly 1/4". I could notice a slight difference in road noise (Wheel bearings are old but checked out as good),..OBD II scan showed: "steering angle implausible"
After performing the string alignment and getting the toe in back to 1/16". All was good. No "steering angle fault" no DSC/tire light warning.
I don't really know why but I'm just glad to have it back as it was. Or even better

I don't have adjustable camber plates and know nothing about caster. But I do know I will be getting another four wheel alignment $$...soon

 

That would be nice to have a Mini counter part as a neighbor. I don't think I've seen another Mini near me or at least within 3.5 miles from me.