check your tire weights clearance against the caliper. I know that seems stupid but have seen pic of weights melting off due to too much heat.

 

good looks! I was looking at the 1552 integrale in bronze but i am absolutely open to suggestions
will do!

 

Or actually hitting the calipers, which I had happen on both my JCW and my R56 with the Wilwoods. I just have them moved inboard a bit when they balance the wheels. Has not been a problem doing the balance that way.

 

I half too say. I truly love my little money pit. As much work I had to do in the past 4 months. Most people would say f@#K it.
Now for the rest of the story. My power steering pump is going out an my swaybar in the front is bent. How the hell that happened I would love to know. So I waiting on my parts. An down comes the subframe again.
God I love this little car. ❤
But I still won't get rid of it.

 

Installed underbody paneling on my R57 today. Trimmed very little to make the WMW x-brace fit. I'm happy with the results.

 

New high beams with a much better color match to the stock xenons. Went with a standard 55w.




P.s. Really getting sick of this 'related thread' nonsense at the bottom.

 

You can disable this in your User Control panel. Left Column, Edit Options, scroll down to Thread Display Options. You can also disable continuous scroll to have pages again. Eliminates accidentally replying to the wrong thread when you didn't realize the thread changed because you scrolled past the original thread you were reading.

Another option is to disable continuous pages, but leave related threads active. This will give you a short list of related thread links in a separate box at the bottom without automatically changing to one.

 

YOU ROCK! This has been bugging me for a L-O-N-G time! Thanks!

 

My rear wipers were always sticky, and never pressed against the rear window properly, so I finally got those taken care of. Also, at somepoint over the winter, one of my rear wiper caps busted. Replaced both arms and caps with new ones this afternoon.

And, finally got my R56 triangle nets properly installed:


Excuse the dirty cargo area. Its not quite spring cleaning time.

 

A bit more getting ready for spring clean-up. Did a deep clean and condition on my steering wheel. It is amazing how much gross stuff gets in/on there. Took a good hour to clean and condition, but it looks new again.



I ordered a bunch of supplies to make some JCW-style down tube covers - leather, some blue #138 thread; I think I am going to re-stitch the wheel with the blue thread when it gets here. Should be a fun project and should really bring the blue-stitched interior together. Wish I could get a new steering wheel air bag cover without buying the whole thing... the chrome 'wings' in mine are in awful shape.

 

Mounted a Garrett gtx2860r to the n14

 

 

I need to know what's going on in your engine bay looking at the intake and other piece.

 

Looks to be an Air to water intercooler but I could be wrong.

 

Swap it for a 3 spoke wheel. Much better.

 

Finally got around to doing some of my maintenance items this weekend. Flushed my coolant system. Changed the Thermostat housing, crossover pipe, water pump, water pump pulley, tensioner pulley, and the coolant reservoir. Some of those items were a pain I the ***. Really tight space in the mini engine bay. Probably would be a lot easier to work on it if I had smaller hand,but my wife wouldn't like it if I had tiny hands lol. I also installed an AEM Cold air intake and a solid urethane lower torque arm.

 

Don't care for the look of the three spoke at all, and on long drives it is incredibly comfy to have one hand on the wheel in the 6 o'clock position.

 

Things didn't start out well this evening with the work on the MINI. I snapped off the T30 bolt holding the AC clutch on the compressor after replacing the clutch coil. Thought I was screwed - in fact was contemplating an A/C delete at that point. But thought I'd try removing the bolt. Drilled it out about 1/4 of an inch with a lefty drill bit, then threaded in a #1 bolt remover, and out the bolt came! So that was the turning point.

That was when I decided to do the driver's side power door lock module. It had been non-working since before the head gasket went back a few years ago. It was a bit more difficult that the passenger side because you have to line up the sort of gigantic phillips head door lock backside with its mating part on the door lock module. Took 3 tries to get that lined up. Then I had to finagle one difficult cable back into place. Overall, not a tough job, but definitely a lot of stuff to keep track of routing on and get back into the correct places.Happy to report that all of my power locks are now completely functional!

Now I just gotta find a M6x1.5cm to replace that clutch bolt and hope that that cures my non-functional AC system!

Love tinkering on this car.

 

this was the issue! fitting nicely so far now

still going to look into the wilwoods though. my bud is offering a pretty solid price to me for these and i don't think i need "that" much braking power tbh. That could let me do things like chassis bracing

 

how's the stiffness? notice any differences? I've been looking at m7's braces as well

 

wowowowow look at that thing!

who's tuning it and what power you hoping for?

 

LOL it’s complicated. Fully forged built, cat cams, w2a intercooler is what you see on top right.

 

Well it’s got the RPM Power open boost map so I can use a Cortex Electronic boost controller for controlling boost and port injectors that are in this billet rpm powered manifold. I am only looking for 300whp. But I’m sure it will be a bit more now. I was at 275whp at 21psi with a custom built ko4.

 

That's a rather personal question, wouldn't you say??😉 Do you need to see a doctor if the m7 braces stay stiff for more than 4 hours?

 

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣