What did you do to your mini today?
milltek header
The Milltek header seems to be the best header if you want to keep the car street legal. They seemed to put in same real design work into it. I notice now the feeder pipes are bent to be covered by the stock stainless heat shield, which to me is important to protect the engine bay and bonnet especially driving on tracks. It would be my choice if the cat on my stock header departs, god forbids.
The Milltek header seems to be the best header if you want to keep the car street legal. They seemed to put in same real design work into it. I notice now the feeder pipes are bent to be covered by the stock stainless heat shield, which to me is important to protect the engine bay and bonnet especially driving on tracks. It would be my choice if the cat on my stock header departs, god forbids.
Yep, when my header goes, milltek goes in on the R52
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Observing the Milltek header closely against the stock header one can see the subtle attention to details that went into the design. The cat is bigger and the casing has a streamlined funnels on both sides. They implemented the longest runners possible while maintaining compatibility with stainless steel heat shield. That is very important when the header is orange hot driving flat out on tracks. Yes. You can heat wrap the header, but the heat will just move downstream and emit there. For all preped race car of course you will be willing to take this tradeoffs.
Note too is the size of the flex joint, and the smooth pipe bend between the flex joint and the big cat.
Note too is the size of the flex joint, and the smooth pipe bend between the flex joint and the big cat.
racing cat
Here is an article (infomercial) about high performance racing cat.
I am sure they aren't cheap, and you have to weld it on yourself. Many European countries require cat even for racing.
I am sure they aren't cheap, and you have to weld it on yourself. Many European countries require cat even for racing.
This is interesting as there is no rhyme or reason for when the header cracks into two. Your R52 has many more miles on the ticker than my Cooper... and mine went 89,939 miles.
It produces an interesting sound for sure... And gave me the perfect excuse to order the Milltek... so I am not complaining...
An MCS with an intake, header and exhaust sounds like a different beast when compared to a stock MCS... I rode in one a little while ago and it is SO quiet... haha I almost forgot what its like.
It produces an interesting sound for sure... And gave me the perfect excuse to order the Milltek... so I am not complaining...
An MCS with an intake, header and exhaust sounds like a different beast when compared to a stock MCS... I rode in one a little while ago and it is SO quiet... haha I almost forgot what its like.
Yep, mine is holding up, maybe because it's a Cooper and not as much engine movement or maybe because I changed my engine mounts out before they went.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Good points... I was a little lazy there with the motor mounts on mine. The trans mount (I think) doesnt have to be swapped all that often. I swapped mine at 113k miles and it still looked ok. But that passenger side and lower get beat up. But not any more!
The rear stabilizing links looks worn. Are you going to replace them also?
Last edited by Minicoopersmodel; 10-21-2017 at 08:06 PM.
Finally got my KW V1's installed at a local DIY shop. Took about 8 hours because the bolt on the passenger side pinch collar snapped off (had the driver's side do it last time I tried to install). That took about 3 hours to drill out after I took the knuckle off.
Also - forgot to install the passenger side sway bar end link. Sigh. Oh well. Maybe next time.
Also - forgot to install the passenger side sway bar end link. Sigh. Oh well. Maybe next time.
Adding some HP (RED) to the enginee bay
So here's what I worked on this past weekend.
I planned to change the motor lower and upper bushings but before that I thought I could painted the support brackets as well. (Once you start painting something is really hard to stop... so I also painted the intercooler brackets ).
Here're the parts after powder coating! <br/>The top support bracket has some orange peel finish but still look good
Lower support bracket with POWERFLEX bushings! Taking out the big factory bushing required an arbor press and some patience
In place and looking good!
IC brackets! I think is a nice option if you want to keep the OEM boots and add some red to this area
Now I have to replace those rusted bolts.
Of course I'm saving the better part for the end
Just one part left to replace (the upper engine mount) and I found out that the torx bolt head is stripped... I started to grind it but didn't finish the job.
Damn you torx bolt!
I'll have to wait to enjoy the added HP to the mini
I planned to change the motor lower and upper bushings but before that I thought I could painted the support brackets as well. (Once you start painting something is really hard to stop... so I also painted the intercooler brackets ).
Here're the parts after powder coating! <br/>The top support bracket has some orange peel finish but still look good
Lower support bracket with POWERFLEX bushings! Taking out the big factory bushing required an arbor press and some patience
In place and looking good!
IC brackets! I think is a nice option if you want to keep the OEM boots and add some red to this area
Now I have to replace those rusted bolts.
Of course I'm saving the better part for the end
Just one part left to replace (the upper engine mount) and I found out that the torx bolt head is stripped... I started to grind it but didn't finish the job.
Damn you torx bolt!
I'll have to wait to enjoy the added HP to the mini
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Spokane, Wa. it's not near Seattle
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As for my endlinks...that's just what 10 year old end links in Canada look like :-) Cars rust here. I plan to get new end links when i install lowering springs.
The door trims are riveted (plastic rivets) on the door plastic panel so there is no way of getting them out without damaging it.