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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
Just did this myself about a month ago. It's very easy, and takes very little time. I think I spent about $20 total in parts(the wood, carpet, and glue).
What keeps the panel in place? Screws, Velcro, glue?
Installed a new oil pan and gasket. I'm going to go look for a live rooster to sacrifice in hopes of taking the oil leaking curse off my MINI.
The first heat cycle starts now.
Oh! This is coming up for me... May I ask how long it took you? I have a bunch of independent tasks to complete this winter and I am trying to line them up based on time.
Oh! This is coming up for me... May I ask how long it took you? I have a bunch of independent tasks to complete this winter and I am trying to line them up based on time.
I worked pretty slow and it took about two hours start to finish. It's better to go slow vs. going fast and breaking stuff.
Agreed. I have LCA bushings, P/S lines, CPS o-ring and dip stick o-ring to replace as well.
Trying to create a list of items while underneath.
Thanks!
Im sure you will get it done alot sooner than my 8 hours. I redid the whole suspension in the front end, all new PS Lines, and engine mounts. And on one of the last bolts broke one. Good luck with yours man!
What keeps the panel in place? Screws, Velcro, glue?
Underneath the board are the brackets that hold the seat cushions in place. I attached a small 1x2 across the width of the underside of the seat delete, to where it's positioned just behind the seat brackets when the board is laid down. It keeps the board from sliding forward into the back of the front seats. The tapered shape of the seat delete naturally keeps it from sliding to the rear, so need to install anything in the back to keep it from sliding front or rear.
I'll snap a pic or two and send them to you. It's honestly very easy.
*Edit*
And maybe I misunderstood your initial question just a bit. The board just lays there. You can lift it up if need be. I store my Quick Detail and microfiber towels underneath
Underneath the board are the brackets that hold the seat cushions in place. I attached a small 1x2 across the width of the underside of the seat delete, to where it's positioned just behind the seat brackets when the board is laid down. It keeps the board from sliding forward into the back of the front seats. The tapered shape of the seat delete naturally keeps it from sliding to the rear, so need to install anything in the back to keep it from sliding front or rear.
I'll snap a pic or two and send them to you. It's honestly very easy.
*Edit*
And maybe I misunderstood your initial question just a bit. The board just lays there. You can lift it up if need be. I store my Quick Detail and microfiber towels underneath
Interesting, I had a similar thought on how to keep it in place. Any rattling or vibrations at all with the current mounting solution? I'm going to follow the same style, but I'm looking for a more solid solution. Maybe on a hinge?
Im sure you will get it done alot sooner than my 8 hours. I redid the whole suspension in the front end, all new PS Lines, and engine mounts. And on one of the last bolts broke one. Good luck with yours man!
Thanks! Fingers crossed. Just placed the last order with ECS.
I get about 2 weeks off for the Holiday break so I done have to pound this out in a single day. Most likely, I will him apart and work on him over 1-2-3 days and take my time. Looking to clean everything up (brake clean) while I go and photograph all of my steps for memory.
How is everything working now post-work? I am intrigued at how much you got back with handling... Excited to experience that again.
Despite replacing the old oil pan having a warp that was nearly six thousandths, it still leaks. It leaks a lot less, but still leaks a spot the size of a quarter. Short of replacing the engine or slathering on RTV I don’t think this leak can be fixed. Its just time to get this car sold.
Does anyone have any other suggestions? Fire, gasoline, matches, flex seal
Despite replacing the old oil pan having a warp that was nearly six thousandths, it still leaks. It leaks a lot less, but still leaks a spot the size of a quarter. Short of replacing the engine or slathering on RTV I don’t think this leak can be fixed. Its just time to get this car sold.
Does anyone have any other suggestions? Fire, gasoline, matches, flex seal
Threebond 1211, Yamabond 4, or Hondabond.
I understand that they are all the same product in different packaging.
They are often used to seal motorcycle crankcase halves together.
Despite replacing the old oil pan having a warp that was nearly six thousandths, it still leaks. It leaks a lot less, but still leaks a spot the size of a quarter. Short of replacing the engine or slathering on RTV I don’t think this leak can be fixed. Its just time to get this car sold.
Does anyone have any other suggestions? Fire, gasoline, matches, flex seal
Any chance the housing itself is also slightly warped?
Any chance the housing itself is also slightly warped?
Do you mean the block? I would not be surprised if the block has some kind of defect. The thought of using sealer keeps crossing my mind. I’ve had the front end off his about three times in the last 8 months because of oil leaks in the same area. It’s like despite every gasket and seal being new it still leaks.
Good luck with yours man!
