I was able to code the FRM module correctly. But when I went to code the ABG module I got this error.

 

For some reason after coding out the parking lights I am still getting the CC ID - 131 bulb out warning. I checked and recoded twice and I am still getting it? Any ideas why?

 

Anyone know why I am getting the coapi-2041 error?

 

So, is the One-stop-electronics cable the only one that is a sure-fire to work?

 

Are these the only two codes to code out the bulbs above the fog lights? For some reason, they are disabled but I am still getting the bulb check error. I put standard bulbs in last night to check and the error from the LEDs went away???

Parking Lights
KALTUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41
WARMUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41
nicht_aktiv
KALTUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18
WARMUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18
nicht_aktiv


Daytime Running Lights
KALTUE_TFL_M1_1_M1_33
WARMUE_TFL_M2_1_M2_33
nicht_aktiv

 

Any body in the SOCAL Orange County area that can help me with coding I just want to enable the temp and time in the tach display and not have the speed displayed there? I have an R60 JUSTA.
Thanks

 

Why is this thread a ghost town??

 

Good question.

 

Wish I could help you, but my FRM coding failed too. I think my problem was the white cable I got on eBay. It just wouldn't take the new codes.

But with the same cable I somehow coded the CAS, SHD and KOMBI modules for sunroof, blinkers and remote windows. Weird.

 

no one in socal?:(

 

I believe that I had to turn-off checks to these lights as well:

Corner Lights
KALTUE_POL_M2_50_M1_8
WARMUE_POL_M2_50_M1_8
nicht_aktiv


Well, if the cable/process works for the other modules you are coding, the first thing I'd do is to update to the latest datens file and THEN start tracking this down. You mentioned that you had a "ECU refresh" -- this makes me want to make sure I'm using the very latest datens version.


I believe that what you are seeking to do will not work. Do you know of someone else's R58 that does roll the window up when the switch is activated AFTER the key is taken out or are you just assuming it should work? I haven't seen this work on any MINI and it certainly doesn't work on my R60.

The reason it worked while holding the switch BEFORE taking the key out is, I believe, due to the held switch maintaining the current in the circuit to the window regulator until the window-up process is complete. After completion of the window up, the circuit is automatically turned-off. Thus, the switch maintains the existing circuit current only until the window-up is complete. This means that the switch cannot "initiate" the circuit's current to the regulator, only temporarily prevent the existing current from being shut-off until the window operation is complete.

And here in is one aspect of changing module settings: even though you can change many settings, it doesn't mean that all of them are "electrically supported". And, because of this, it is sheer speculation to infer that because a setting exists, it should work in ways we deem possible!

I'd love to activate the alarm light "heartbeat" possible on the R56. But on the R60, it isn't electrically supported without having the alarm option! Also, remember that many of the settings listed in the trace files have their origins in the BMW series vehicles. Did you know that in the MINI's modules there is a setting to turn on and off the "angel-eyes"? Of course toggling this setting does absolutely nothing! Why? Because the angel eyes are not electrically (and physically) supported on the MINI. Just because a setting exists in a MINI module doesn't mean it actually does anything or even behaves in ways we might assume it would!

HTH,

 

I could probably help you if you came down to SD. The other thing is I've never heard of coding to "enable the temp and time in the tach display and not have the speed displayed there". If you know the module and line, then it's a simple thing!

 

I WAS just assuming it should be doable. I have not seen any Mini which could do this. NAM is the only knowledge base I rely on. I have not read any posting which said it works, or doesn't work the way I had envisioned. You were the first person who has ever confirmed this. THANK YOU!!! I will now stop chasing my tail!

I was aware of that. I would have loved to have auto folding mirrors on keyout. It's in the module, but not supported in Mini. Thanks again. Time to return to chasing my tail finding the manual spoiler setting...

 

Thanks

 

Wouldn't it be DIG_SPEED_PERMANENT to nicht_aktiv in KOMBI? From the first post in this thread:
Haven't tried it. Maybe it really activates the ejector seat, in which case 1) COOL! and 2) you're on your own for your medical, legal, and automotive bills.

Actually, you're on your own for your bills regardless. I'm certainly not paying them.

While I'm here…

You can use NCS Dummy to edit the module files so that you can shorten the delay before the windows start to open/close when holding the button on the remote. I just set mine to 1 second, because the default 2.5 for closing is just too damn long. Of course, this means next time it is raining I'll sit on my key such that the windows open.

I'd give step-by-step instructions, but the instructions for NCS Dummy are really quite good so you can go read them instead. In CAS, you want to add a parameter that sets KMFRT_OEFFNEN to 0A (for one second). Same for KMFRT_SCHLIESSEN if you want to shorten the close delay too.

Worked for me, but the standard disclaimer applies. If you break it, you own the pieces.

 

Yes! I think its that like in the KOMBI module! Maybe I'll make the drive down to SD~!

 

Just PM me if you get serious about it. Setting "DIG_SPEED_PERMANENT to nicht_aktiv in KOMBI" would be quick and easy.

 

Can anyone point me to a cable that is guaranteed to work? I don't want to have to go through a bunch to find a good one, especially when so many have already figured out what works. So much contradicting stuff here on cables right now!

 

Everyone has said the cable from the first message of this thread works.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...beginners.html

If you read the whole thread and you will see repeated references to purchase the cable from ecutool. I was lucky enough to purchase mine off someone here on NAM who had sold his Mini, so my source was different.

 

Thank you. For some reason, I did not really explore that thread, as we have our own thread here in the R60 area.

 

And we're back. The linked ECUtool cable does not appear to be correct for the R60. Says its for up to 2008 - I was lead to beleive that this does not work for the R60?

 

I'm also having this problem, and I too have a Win7Pro laptop. Stupid windows. Can I solve this with VirtualBox or something like that?

Edit-I saw mention of using Virtual XP so I tried installing that. M$ wants a validation code to download, and the windows genuine tool that it makes you download to generate that code runs and says it is too old. I can't find a newer version of this. Why does microsoft try so damn hard to make everything break?

 

It really comes down to having a 32-bit or 64-bit OS. Windows 7 x86 (32-bit) can be used without issue. The 64-bit version (x64) is not compatible, and you must either run another partition on the PC (difficult for most) or simply use an older PC (think cheap laptop).

As for the cable, there are literally dozens of types floating around there now. The ECUTool cable does work, as reported by many users here.

The only difference between some of these cables will be the shorting (or lack thereof) of Pin #8.

 

Fancy meeting you here!

I seem to have enjoyed a rock-solid setup using my MacBook Pro (OSX 10.8.5, model 8,2) with VMWare Fusion (v4) supporting a Windows XP (latest SP) VM. We could meet up at an upcoming event and I could also make sure your cable works.

Theo