Hyde, you can always add an internal switch if you code both regularly. That's what I do on my cables. Just add a simple slide SPST, and never have to open it up again to code anything from the R53 -> R61.

 

Hi Theta,

Great thread you're maintaining. I joined the forum specifically for this thread.

I have 2011 countryman coopers s, Australian version. Just wondering if you could help me clarify the procedure to code out the "bulb check" function as I'm trying to use LED bulbs in parking lights and number plate lights? I have read the OP but am a little overwhelmed by the amount of info in it.

What is the simplest way to disable the bulb check function?

I have purchased this cable:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321085046...84.m1497.l2649

Hope it's the right one.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Sure, no problem -- first, you'll need to read Part 1 of the Guide and download the appropriate files. I can't stress this enough, as there's no easy way to skip around the directions.

Download the latest version of the Datens in the first thread (the link will take you to the appropriate post) and again follow the directions to import those. Followed step-by-step, the guide should give you a clear walkthrough of every operation - I don't think there's anything that I've left out, as hundreds have used it without issue in first-time coding.

For what you're looking to do, you only need to focus on two settings in the FRM module, so it's not that daunting:


License Plate
KALTUE_KZL_M2_49
WARMUE_KZL_M2_49
nicht_aktiv

- and -

Parking Lights
KALTUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41
WARMUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41
nicht_aktiv
KALTUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18
WARMUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18
nicht_aktiv

Best of luck, and remember, it's worth it!

 

Has anybody figured out how to code the city lights as the DRL?

 

Thanks for the reply Theta. I will give this a try and report back.

Cheers

 

Are you still having issues?

This is the first time I have ever heard of pins 7&8 soldered working on a model newer than 2008. Oddly enough it shouldn't have worked at all. Where and when did you buy your cable?


I activated it on a 2011 R56 by setting the following:

VERHALTEN_DRL_TFL
drl_s

DRL_TFL_MIT_SML
aktiv

Then turning the car off for 5 minutes (it did not work right away; sometimes the car needs to reset). The coding may be the same for the R60. Give it a shot.

 

May be different to this.

My R55 which has had a S/W upgrade along the line has:

Sidelights/City lights/Parking lights
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_SL_V
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_SL_V

License lights
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_KZL
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_KZL

In the FRM2_R.56.C0C file.

New name but same function as the ones you mention.

Also not sure how close an Aussie Mini is to a UK Mini but the UK DRL options are different.

I think I set
VERHALTEN_DRL_SML = aktiv
VERHALTEN_DRL_TFL to drl_s which is USA DRL with dedicated lights.
There is an option to set to tfl_s European DRL with dedicated lights. Not sure what this but may be the Scandinavian setting which I guess you don't need in Aus.

My sidelights are on all the time now which is fine.
Also you can off all rear lights too. Have a look at NCSDummy to see translations.

 

Ran into the first hurdle. I've followed the instructions and installed everything until Section II part I, where I need to launch NCS expert for the first time,

There is a error message when trying to open NCS expert tool: "the version of this file is not compatible with the version of Windows you're running. Check whether you need an x86 (32-bit) or x64 (64-bit) version of the program, and then contact the software publisher."

I have Windows 7 professional service pack 1, and I did enable compatibility mode for Windows XP (service pack 2) in the properties. But I'm still getting the error message and unable to open NCS expert.

Appreciate any help.

 

You're most likely running a 64-bit version of Windows 7. That causes this error.

 

Per your private message, the only solution (as has been explained several times in the thread) is to use an x86 operating system.

Try using an older laptop, running a VM, etc.

 

I used an old netbook running an Atom processor. Installed windows XP and coded a bunch of things on my car successfully. They are under $100 on eBay. You don't need a high powered laptop to run the program. If you need help coding in SoCal then I can help, just shoot me a PM.

 

Thanks for the replies. Will try to hunt down an old laptop at work.

Cheers

 

Try to get one that is a common model that you can get a new battery for it on eBay as the old battery will be shot.

 

No need for a new battery if you are only using it for coding your car a few times. Just keep it plugged in when you need to code the car. My netbook battery is shot but I keep it plugged in when I code the car.

 

if you don't have a laptop battery capable of completeing the coding process then you are at rick if the mains fails or someone trips on the power cord, etc.

Also it is often suggested that using a laptop to carry out any programing on a car, should not be being charged during the process, i.e. the laptop should from it's own battery. I am yet to be convinced this is an issue but perhaps ground isolation can introduce problems.

However, loosing external power during coding can be a big issue and it is prudent to avoid it buy using a decent battery.

 

An update:

I was able to install everything correctly using a laptop with Windows Vista service pack 2, one thing to note: before running setup.exe you will need to enable Windows XP service pack 2 compatibility mode under properties. Otherwise the software will not install. (This was not in the Guides but may have already been mentioned in this thread previously).

However, I was not able to disable the bulb out warnings by changing the following:
License Plate
KALTUE_KZL_M2_49
WARMUE_KZL_M2_49
nicht_aktiv

- and -

Parking Lights
KALTUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41
WARMUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41
nicht_aktiv
KALTUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18
WARMUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18
nicht_aktiv


Is it possible that Australian R60 uses different codings?

Thanks

 

Ok looks like it worked this time! I've disabled corner lights, and both low beams and high beams. Went out for a 5min drive, no bulb out warnings so far.

I have no idea what are corner lights, or if they are the same as parking lights but they were "aktiv" in the codes.

Disabled low and high beams as a precaution as I have PIAA 4100K H4 bulbs in place of factory halogens, but I don't think they would've triggered bulb out as the PIAAs are still halogen.

 

I ALWAYS have my Mac plugged in when I am coding and have yet to encounter any ill effects...

 

Gents,

I've been working with Triple_O to code my R60. He has been able to help me with everything, but we have been unable to code out the bulb errors on my parking lights.

A little background:

I put a pair of LEDs in my parking lights. I bought lights with built-in resistors (or gadgets) which would supposedly keep the bulbs from throwing codes. Unfortunately, the car threw a code for "Left parking lamp malfunction!"

Flash forward to coding with Triple_O, and we could not get the code off. He coded the following values, all to no avail:


Interestingly, I swapped the bulbs so that the LED that was in the driver's side housing (the one supposedly throwing a code) was put in the passenger's side, and vice versa. Despite swapping the bulbs, the car still threw a code for "Left parking lamp malfunction!"

I am sort of at a loss regarding what to do next. Are there any values to code that we haven't done? I fear it might be an electrical issue with the left/driver's side socket. Or perhaps it just doesn't like the bulbs with resistors?

Any help is welcome.

 

This would be the first that I've heard of this. All of the required values are listed -they haven't added any new lighting values.

 

Yeah, me either. It's definitely weird. I'm wondering if I should try going back to incandescent bulbs just to see what happens.

 

Have you tried code out the corner lights? I did the same coding (for parking lights) initially and it didn't work. Then I did the corner lights and no more bulb out warnings. See my post above.

 

Have a look for any Warm and Kalt checks for PARKLICHT or SL_V. Some BMW's need the checks removed from all Angel Eye entries even though they don't have Angel Eyes. This was certainly the case with an E90 (UK spec and no AE) I used to have.

 

Hi conger,

Do you know if there are any other checks for license plate lights other than below?
KALTUE_KZL_M2_49
WARMUE_KZL_M2_49
nicht_aktiv

I coded out the above and there is no more permanent warning with the exclamation mark, but there is always the yellow bulb out warning when turning on the ignition and then it disappears until the next ignition start.

Thanks

 

Any idea what PARKL_FKT_MIT_POL is?