Drivetrain 231.9WHP with new big valve head. Stock cam and ECU.
Dyno numbers, yet again.
There are too many variables in a building with a dyno, let alone what the Mini OE ECU sees. Unless you have an engine dyno in a controled enviroment the chance you can repeat a chart are as good as being hit by lighting twice.
Can you measure how much CO there is in the building? Or for that mater how much oxygen? How many other cars were run that day before yours? New oil? What fuel & from where? Most shops will note the weather as a factor but that's as far as you can go.
Bottom line, you can get many different charts, same car, same day with no change to the engine - none. This post would be too long & boring to list all the variables..... They bring global warming to mind.
A dyno is a tool. It's used to establish a base line. If you complete the mod the same day as the base line, then dyno for a result, the only constant will be the percentage. That percentage will cary from mod to mod & will be reflected in the dyno chart.
Example: 100hp base, with mod 110hp = +10%. Next day 90hp base, remove mod 81hp = -10%. This is an over simplified example but it is very accurate to what most dyno result will be on a day to day. That dyno & only that dyno will tell you how good you are that day.
There are too many variables in a building with a dyno, let alone what the Mini OE ECU sees. Unless you have an engine dyno in a controled enviroment the chance you can repeat a chart are as good as being hit by lighting twice.
Can you measure how much CO there is in the building? Or for that mater how much oxygen? How many other cars were run that day before yours? New oil? What fuel & from where? Most shops will note the weather as a factor but that's as far as you can go.
Bottom line, you can get many different charts, same car, same day with no change to the engine - none. This post would be too long & boring to list all the variables..... They bring global warming to mind.
A dyno is a tool. It's used to establish a base line. If you complete the mod the same day as the base line, then dyno for a result, the only constant will be the percentage. That percentage will cary from mod to mod & will be reflected in the dyno chart.
Example: 100hp base, with mod 110hp = +10%. Next day 90hp base, remove mod 81hp = -10%. This is an over simplified example but it is very accurate to what most dyno result will be on a day to day. That dyno & only that dyno will tell you how good you are that day.
It would seem that RIPPER's results might be a more reasonable objective than Longboard's, given the aggressive mapping on Longboard's ECU.
"It would seem that RIPPER's results might be a more reasonable objective than Longboard's, given the aggressive mapping on Longboard's ECU."
And why would that be? You need to know what RIPPER's ECU sees if mapping is the only criteria.
And why would that be? You need to know what RIPPER's ECU sees if mapping is the only criteria.
"It would seem that RIPPER's results might be a more reasonable objective than Longboard's, given the aggressive mapping on Longboard's ECU."
And why would that be? You need to know what RIPPER's ECU sees if mapping is the only criteria.
And why would that be? You need to know what RIPPER's ECU sees if mapping is the only criteria.
correct, there are many things that can change the performance of the final hp. The fact remains that Longboards car was stock tuning....so sue the factory
Some of the older cars had more aggressive timing maps, that's a fact. I think we will all see soon enough what the RMW cars do with a tune.
It's interesting only the RMW cars have been shown without tunes for hp gains.... where is the Wegner or Cosworth numbers?
the true test is come to the race track and see a few RMW bumpers

Why would anyone care what a car will do when it gets a new head, it it hasn't been tuned?
Because, if the head design is any good, it'll almost certainly demand proper tuning to deliver its true performance.
Without the tune, no one has a clue what it'll really do.

So how can any comparison be valid?
Where am I wrong?
Sorry, I'm confused. 
Why would anyone care what a car will do when it gets a new head, it it hasn't been tuned?
Because, if the head design is any good, it'll almost certainly demand proper tuning to deliver its true performance.
Without the tune, no one has a clue what it'll really do.
So how can any comparison be valid?
Where am I wrong?

Why would anyone care what a car will do when it gets a new head, it it hasn't been tuned?
Because, if the head design is any good, it'll almost certainly demand proper tuning to deliver its true performance.
Without the tune, no one has a clue what it'll really do.

So how can any comparison be valid?
Where am I wrong?
Hey Jan, Stop tuning longbords car and finish the tune for the jesus head. I want my other 25 hp and 15 ft lbs of tq
I need to finish my car before I can start saving for my new 1098
I need to finish my car before I can start saving for my new 1098Last edited by RIPPER; Oct 2, 2007 at 11:31 AM.
Not tuning new heads...
The Mini runs a speed density system with a volumetric efficiency table. The speed density doesn't really need tuning, and the VE maps from the factory suck. They are lean down low, and really rich throughout most of the power band. So improving the breathing on the car without telling the ECU will actually help your A/F ratios! doesn't make sense, but there you have it.
Sure, every car would benefit from a custom tune. But it's easy to have a head shipped, and there may be no tuner near by to spin a tune for your ECU. So, what should they do, blow off the 75% (wild *** guess) of the benefit that you could get just cause it's a hassle to go the final distance?
Don't let comparissons with the ideal prevent you from doing a damned good improvement, even if it doesn't go all the way.
Matt
Sure, every car would benefit from a custom tune. But it's easy to have a head shipped, and there may be no tuner near by to spin a tune for your ECU. So, what should they do, blow off the 75% (wild *** guess) of the benefit that you could get just cause it's a hassle to go the final distance?
Don't let comparissons with the ideal prevent you from doing a damned good improvement, even if it doesn't go all the way.
Matt
The Mini runs a speed density system with a volumetric efficiency table. The speed density doesn't really need tuning, and the VE maps from the factory suck. They are lean down low, and really rich throughout most of the power band. So improving the breathing on the car without telling the ECU will actually help your A/F ratios! doesn't make sense, but there you have it.
Sure, every car would benefit from a custom tune. But it's easy to have a head shipped, and there may be no tuner near by to spin a tune for your ECU. So, what should they do, blow off the 75% (wild *** guess) of the benefit that you could get just cause it's a hassle to go the final distance?
Don't let comparissons with the ideal prevent you from doing a damned good improvement, even if it doesn't go all the way.
Matt
Sure, every car would benefit from a custom tune. But it's easy to have a head shipped, and there may be no tuner near by to spin a tune for your ECU. So, what should they do, blow off the 75% (wild *** guess) of the benefit that you could get just cause it's a hassle to go the final distance?
Don't let comparissons with the ideal prevent you from doing a damned good improvement, even if it doesn't go all the way.
Matt
Long before Jan's head was even a rumor, I opted to do the Cosworth.
Frankly, it made very little difference.
For me, it was only when I dropped the Unichip and got the OEM MINI ECU tuned on the dyno that the whp jumped up about 25 or so. And this was going from a liberal Dynojet dyno in the winter (less than 40 degrees) to the stingier LDG Dynapack dyno in the heat of the summer (over 90 degrees).
With the over 50 degree temp offsets and the two dyno differences, I'd consevatively estimate the delta to much more like +35 whp.
So I may well be comparing apples (Cosworth - with hardly any difference) to oranges (RMW - with a noticeable difference).
My experience may be skewed.
Long before Jan's head was even a rumor, I opted to do the Cosworth.
Frankly, it made very little difference.
For me, it was only when I dropped the Unichip and got the OEM MINI ECU tuned on the dyno that the whp jumped up about 25 or so. And this was going from a liberal Dynojet dyno in the winter (less than 40 degrees) to the stingier LDG Dynapack dyno in the heat of the summer (over 90 degrees).
With the over 50 degree temp offsets and the two dyno differences, I'd consevatively estimate the delta to much more like +35 whp.
So I may well be comparing apples (Cosworth - with hardly any difference) to oranges (RMW - with a noticeable difference).
Long before Jan's head was even a rumor, I opted to do the Cosworth.
Frankly, it made very little difference.
For me, it was only when I dropped the Unichip and got the OEM MINI ECU tuned on the dyno that the whp jumped up about 25 or so. And this was going from a liberal Dynojet dyno in the winter (less than 40 degrees) to the stingier LDG Dynapack dyno in the heat of the summer (over 90 degrees).
With the over 50 degree temp offsets and the two dyno differences, I'd consevatively estimate the delta to much more like +35 whp.
So I may well be comparing apples (Cosworth - with hardly any difference) to oranges (RMW - with a noticeable difference).
Maybe 50 whp?
I ask because many of the so-called upgrades that have whp numbers don't seem to add up when combined.






