Drivetrain Alta Turbo Kit
Originally Posted by Trickle X
I am still getting the p1262 code, I did speak with another guy this weekend who has the SPI kit. He gets it to, apparently the Helix kit is the only one currently that doesnt. I am told Eric has a trick to fix this, but wont share....fair enuff..
You shouldn't be seeing a P1242 with any setup unless your blow-off valve isn't venting enough or properly, or you have your upMAP disconnected or exposed to the atmosphere.
I'm a bit mystified you're not seeing a P1238 with no ECU tweaks...unless you're only running a couple PSI [like 1 to 2] from the turbo, which isn't likely given your dyno pulls. The O2 simulator has nothing to do with the P12xx codes.
I'm a bit mystified you're not seeing a P1238 with no ECU tweaks...unless you're only running a couple PSI [like 1 to 2] from the turbo, which isn't likely given your dyno pulls. The O2 simulator has nothing to do with the P12xx codes.
Yeah I kind of been wondering why, I have altered the blow-off valve to open even at idle so it shouldn't be an issue. The upstream pressure sensor was relocated to the intake tube vacuum source.
Here are the direct install instructions from Alta....let me know what u think:
The upstream pressure sensor needs to be relocated to the intake tube vacuum source.
The stock sensor is located on the driver’s side of the engine, next to head. Remove 2 screws and sensor plug from upstream sensor.
The hose running from sensor to SC intake tube needs to be capped off using supplied cap. Cut grey hose roughly 1” from black base. Secure vacuum cap with zip tie.
Install supplied silicone hose from 1/2”-3/8” connector in crank case hose to 1/2”-3/8” connector in turbo intake hose.
Install 3/8 tee in silicone hose next to upstream sensor, and run left over silicone hose from tee to sensor.
Here are the direct install instructions from Alta....let me know what u think:
The upstream pressure sensor needs to be relocated to the intake tube vacuum source.
The stock sensor is located on the driver’s side of the engine, next to head. Remove 2 screws and sensor plug from upstream sensor.
The hose running from sensor to SC intake tube needs to be capped off using supplied cap. Cut grey hose roughly 1” from black base. Secure vacuum cap with zip tie.
Install supplied silicone hose from 1/2”-3/8” connector in crank case hose to 1/2”-3/8” connector in turbo intake hose.
Install 3/8 tee in silicone hose next to upstream sensor, and run left over silicone hose from tee to sensor.
The BOV is before the upstream map sensor, so it has nothing to do with that. But on a stock car, when you decel, there is high vacuum in the intake tube after the thottle body. The ECU doesn't see the super high vacuum, it just sees a little vacuum. With the hydra, this will not be a problem.
Ryephile,
We don't try to meet emissions because we would have to replace the cat with another. This in itself is illegal. So there is no way to make this 100% legal. It can be close. But that doesn't mean we don't care about OBD2. Evey OBD2 item will be taken care of with the hydra, so you can do the test with no issues. ALso this code is not an emissions code, so when they plug in, it won't matter.
We don't try to meet emissions because we would have to replace the cat with another. This in itself is illegal. So there is no way to make this 100% legal. It can be close. But that doesn't mean we don't care about OBD2. Evey OBD2 item will be taken care of with the hydra, so you can do the test with no issues. ALso this code is not an emissions code, so when they plug in, it won't matter.
Originally Posted by ALTA2
The BOV is before the upstream map sensor, so it has nothing to do with that. But on a stock car, when you decel, there is high vacuum in the intake tube after the thottle body. The ECU doesn't see the super high vacuum, it just sees a little vacuum. With the hydra, this will not be a problem.
Thanks!
Yes, but not in the pressurized area. That is why you don't get the other codes others get with the pressure sensor in the intake tube after the throttle body. You installed it correctly. Lets get you that hydra!
Originally Posted by Trickle X
Yeah I kind of been wondering why, I have altered the blow-off valve to open even at idle so it shouldn't be an issue. The upstream pressure sensor was relocated to the intake tube vacuum source.
Originally Posted by ALTA2
Ryephile,
We don't try to meet emissions because we would have to replace the cat with another. This in itself is illegal. So there is no way to make this 100% legal. It can be close. But that doesn't mean we don't care about OBD2. Evey OBD2 item will be taken care of with the hydra, so you can do the test with no issues. ALso this code is not an emissions code, so when they plug in, it won't matter.
We don't try to meet emissions because we would have to replace the cat with another. This in itself is illegal. So there is no way to make this 100% legal. It can be close. But that doesn't mean we don't care about OBD2. Evey OBD2 item will be taken care of with the hydra, so you can do the test with no issues. ALso this code is not an emissions code, so when they plug in, it won't matter.
At this point I am not, I would like to, but there are other areas I need to address 1st. I will tell you this much, the inlet tube is much hotter than before on the intercooler, not that it helps..
Ryephile,
I don't want to get in an argument so please don't take it that way, but that is not correct at all. Can you get away with it rather easy? Yes! Most testing facility's don't know what to look for. And there are always those places where there is no testing. BUT that doesn't make it legal.
About 2 years ago, many people in the aftermarket got hit with a very scary letter from the Feds regarding this. This changed the way we sell some of our items that remove, replace, move, cats.
The jist is every new car has a warranty that covers the catalitic converters on the car for 7 years. After this 7 years only then can you install a replacement cat. But only a ceritfide cat for the weight of the car.(basically) Between that period of time, if your goes bad, you are covered under warranty and you get a new part. If damaged you have to buy another new OEM part. There are very very very few aftermarket assemblys (headers, cat pipes, downpipes) made that are actually LEGAL to use. The law is just that, you can't move, combined, replace, remove a cat. That is until the time frame is up on your 7 years. But that used to be 5 years, now 7 and i think that is changing to 10 years. then there is the $2000 per car fine, or $20000 for business, per offense, it is bad!
Check out www.epa.gov, it will help everyone understand.
Trickle,
your AIT temps should be a little less. What are the temps you are seeing?
I don't want to get in an argument so please don't take it that way, but that is not correct at all. Can you get away with it rather easy? Yes! Most testing facility's don't know what to look for. And there are always those places where there is no testing. BUT that doesn't make it legal.
About 2 years ago, many people in the aftermarket got hit with a very scary letter from the Feds regarding this. This changed the way we sell some of our items that remove, replace, move, cats.
The jist is every new car has a warranty that covers the catalitic converters on the car for 7 years. After this 7 years only then can you install a replacement cat. But only a ceritfide cat for the weight of the car.(basically) Between that period of time, if your goes bad, you are covered under warranty and you get a new part. If damaged you have to buy another new OEM part. There are very very very few aftermarket assemblys (headers, cat pipes, downpipes) made that are actually LEGAL to use. The law is just that, you can't move, combined, replace, remove a cat. That is until the time frame is up on your 7 years. But that used to be 5 years, now 7 and i think that is changing to 10 years. then there is the $2000 per car fine, or $20000 for business, per offense, it is bad!
Check out www.epa.gov, it will help everyone understand.
Trickle,
your AIT temps should be a little less. What are the temps you are seeing?
So is anyone with the twin charge kit also using the oil catch can? Also if any you have a turbo timer was it hard at all to install. I just haven't installed one before. I read some instructions and it didn't seem to bad but I just wasn't sure.
FYI the Helix TurboKompressor Kit uses a stock catalyst and has 0 codes emissions or otherwise.
Alta in NJ they plug into the OBD port and download ecm data directly to DMV with all sorts of data including VIN # and passed readiness codes. Does the Hydra replicate the factory ecm or does it run parrallel? I have experience with the Hydra BTW.
Alta in NJ they plug into the OBD port and download ecm data directly to DMV with all sorts of data including VIN # and passed readiness codes. Does the Hydra replicate the factory ecm or does it run parrallel? I have experience with the Hydra BTW.
Psi-FI,
With the SRT-4 i would assume?
The Hydra and stock ECU are still there, so the readiness stuff is all good! As is cruise, traction control, as sucky as it is, and other little things. At this point the CAN stuff in the hydra is not developed enough to run in the car with out throwing lots of other codes.
With the SRT-4 i would assume?
The Hydra and stock ECU are still there, so the readiness stuff is all good! As is cruise, traction control, as sucky as it is, and other little things. At this point the CAN stuff in the hydra is not developed enough to run in the car with out throwing lots of other codes.
How are the intake temps? Seems like having a IC for the SC and not the Turbo defeats the whole purpose for having an IC at all. Wouldn't the Turbo produces ALOT more heat then the SC. I would think having a IC on a turbo set up is almost a have to. Is there a kit to install a FMIC for the Alta turbo kit? If not, Alta should think about doing so. How about it Alta?
Originally Posted by SSMini
How are the intake temps? Seems like having a IC for the SC and not the Turbo defeats the whole purpose for having an IC at all. Wouldn't the Turbo produces ALOT more heat then the SC. I would think having a IS on a turbo set up is almost a have to. Is there a kit to install a FMIC for the Alta turbo kit? If not, Alta should think about doing so. How about it Alta?

The Alta
So, Im a fairly new Mini owner, just bought a 04 MCS and just a few days ago purchased a Twurbo kit. Unfortunately, two weeks after getting my car, a drunk driver hit it while it was PARKED! so needless to say, it has been in the shop for the past two weeks and I should be getting it back on monday. Now, its still under warranty for another 6 thousand miles, so nothing changes untill then, but I was just wondering if anyone could send me the Twurbo installation instructions (as I bought the kit used) and any links to more in depth instructions or walk throughs... Ive never tried to twincharge a car before, I have done basic turbo installs on friends hondas and toyotas but never tried to twin charge one before.
So anyway the plan so far is to get the following in this order:
BIGGER BETTER Fuel Injectors and a Fuel MGMt system
Stronger pistons
Turbo timer (just because there cool and you can get a shitty one on ebay for like 15 bucks)
Also if I could get some more information on the "hydra" that would be great!...
Oh and Trickle X hurry up with your installation guide!!
So anyway the plan so far is to get the following in this order:
BIGGER BETTER Fuel Injectors and a Fuel MGMt system
Stronger pistons
Turbo timer (just because there cool and you can get a shitty one on ebay for like 15 bucks)
Also if I could get some more information on the "hydra" that would be great!...
Oh and Trickle X hurry up with your installation guide!!


