Now I'm sure this has been covered before, but I can't seem to find a thread in the search. What are the relative benefits and drawbacks of going with a single mass flywheel when changing the clutch? My '05 MCS has 136k on it, with the original flywheel and clutch replaced under warranty at 10k (clutch has 126k on it basically), so I'm starting the process of figuring out what I'll do when it gives it up.
Tigger is running a JCW CAI, Milltek exhaust, 15% SC pulley, 2% crank pulley, Koni Sports, H&R RSB, Camber plates, and is my DD and my AX car.
Any input is appreciated, I'm used to much lower tech cars.

 

Ive been asking around about this recently too, as I am in the process of a rebuild of my engine at 365,000 miles. I am on my original clutch, and am going to replace it since I have my engine out. From what I have been able to find out, there isn't much (if any) benefit of a dual mass flywheel on our size engines. I've been told that the flywheel cannot be re surfaced (my machinist said he could, but then quickly backed out) and should be replaced. A new aftermarket clutch and flywheel is right around $440 (Valeo) and is said to preform as good or better than stock. A OEM clutch and flywheel is pushing $1000. I am going to give a single mass aftermarket a try, and see if I can get 300k out of it too.

Nik

 

Yes, I would not resurface a dual mass. Single mass you are ok, I had mine done on the R52 MCC. The dual mass to single is the way to go, the price of the dual mass is high. Thats why most people change and the less mass / weight issue. Some people light the feel also of the single mass.

We have them in stock and its free ship.


Here are some other item to look at when you do the switch :

Crank Seal and when you do the clutch the guide tube and seal on that should be replaced.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-oil-leak.html 11111492244




Check the guide tube, most likely just replace it so the throw out bearing sides properly. And the seal behind it.

23117551719 Guide Tube

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/23117551719/ES42445/



and

Seal 23117518633

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/23117518633/


We also have the Valeo Single Mass Flywheel Conversion Kit 52151203 Right here:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/52151203/







Great info here on Valeo Clutch:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...utch-disc.html




Thanks

 

I was planning on doing all of the seals and guide tube while I'm in there. But my question remains unanswered (I think) Is there a benefit to using one over the other -other than cost?
I've seen (IIRC, on MINITORQUE) that the single mass has a more accurate feel and removes the 'squishy feel' of the drivetrain when using the dual mass.
That said, if the dual mass slows the application of torque when shifting hard or quickly, it may be an aid to keeping the transmission and drivetrain from suffering form sudden torque applications-I'm just thinking and typing here...- and helps the life of the driveline.
Am I overthinking this??-It wouldn't be the first time

 

There's some really good info about doing the conversion in this thread HERE. It's a very popular conversion and most people describe the change as it having a much quicker engagement and it's very smooth. Some more good info HERE.

 

I did a single mass Valeo in my friends car. I like it better than my OEM. When I swap transmissions, I'm going to convert my car at that time.

 

Thanks for the links, It looks like, in general, it has a lighter pedal feel and when broken in gently will handle 220 or so hp without a problem once its broken in.
Again, the links helped out immensely since I don't want to screw the pooch when I have to change it.

 

Glad I could help. If you need anything just let me know and good luck with the swap!

 

Keep in mind, a lot of people's opinions on single mass conversion are just that; opinions. The swap can really come down to preference. Some people don't like the feel of a single mass after coming from a dual, and they switch back. Some people find that the single mass chatters more at idle. The clutch pedal is lighter and yes, engagement tends to feel more accurate. It's also a lot cheaper right now, though the delta is slowly closing.

 

So what's the actual difference between single and dual mass flywheel/clutch assembly? What is the physical difference(s)?

 

Dual mass flywheels have a secondary flywheel and dampener springs. Instead of engaging the clutch directly to the flywheel, it contacts a secondary flywheel first and most of the vibrations are killed between that and the springs. I'm sure there's more to it than that, someone else can explain better.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_mass_flywheel

 

The OEM flywheel on the MINI has a vulcanized rubber ring in it between the outer disc conact/pressure plate attachment section, and the inner flywheel-to-crankshaft flange, just like the crankshaft vibration damper does. This allows for a little "give" in the assembly upon engagement to eliminate any harshness in the feel of the clutch. Problem is, this rubber section of the flywheel eventually comes apart, leading to catastrophic failure of the whole thing, also just like the crankshaft vibration damper does.

I am having the valeo kit put in my car next week as my original clutch is so spongy, it feels like stepping on a trampoline. Having urethane control arm bushings put in too while its apart (yay!)

Sevin comments that some prefer the feel of the feel of the OEM clutch; my worn original clutch is so worn/mushy that i have no recall of what that feel was like.

I put a valeo setup in the R50 i had when the clutch blew out. Had no issues with it, or second thoughts about how it felt. All good

 

I put a Valeo kit in my car a little over 6 months ago. It's got a few thousand miles on it including a couple of track days. I have no real complaints and would do it again. It does feel more direct than the stock one did. You do get a bit more vibration at idle, but within a few days I didn't notice it any longer. Mine is a little "grabby" when it's cold, but nothing that impacts driveability at all. The pedal is softer for sure and that took more getting used to than anything...I felt like I almost put my foot through the floor the first time I pulled it out of the garage after the install.


Like others have said, replace everything in the bell housing while it's apart...it's cheap insurance. It's also a good time to replace the LCA bushings, ball joints, service the SC, waterpump, t-stat, etc. It's a slippery slope, but if it's torn down already. I started out doing a clutch job and ended up installing around $1600 worth of parts

Here was the pretty new clutch all bolted up.

 

Thanks for the input, this is the first DMFlywheel system I've ever had. as it is, it feels pretty soft, but after full-race, everything feels soft and squishy. I appreciate the input, this forum is ALMOST as good as the Spridgets email list.

 

Welcome.

 

deleted

 

Seriously??

 

Same here!!

Did the Valeo clutch a couple months ago while I was doing a Quaife...and then added about $1500 on top of it for all the 'while I'm in here' and other ignored maintenance parts over the years!