Started to get a rattling sound, so I went to change the tensioner. I could not remove the actual tensioner. The only thing that came out was a little bit of oil and the black piece the actual tensioner feels lodged in the block... any ideas are welcome.

 

It is vert tight, as there is oil pressure there, that will leak, if it is not tight. I use a socket, short extension and a long swivel head ratchet and remove it from the tp. I have done many this way. It will come out. Many say to take it out from the bottom, but I can not fathom why?
If you do replace it, make sure you buy a tested chain tensioner, as there are many crap ones out ther, that are worse than nothing!

 

Hi. Not to hijack this thread but could you please clarify what is meant by a 'tested' tensioner? I just changed mine, the death rattle didn't go away, so I figured it was the guides and/or possibly the chain in need of replacement, and so I'm presently gearing up for that repair job. Other than push the piston in all the way before inserting it into the block I haven't done anything else to the tensioner to test it. Should I have?

 

Because so many tensioners are defective (due to poor machining practices) They usually fail soon after installation, so when you purchse one, make sure it says it has been physically tested! this is no joke, unless you are not minding possible engine failure, due to the tensioner, not tensioning the came chain.

 

REDSKY455

....did you install it with the tensioner in the retracted position? or fully open? You need to install it in the full open position if you are just doing it from the back of the engine. The tensioner will remain locked in retracted position unless it is activated. You can only do this if you have the timing cover removed and you push the guide rail into the tensioner to activate it and fully extend it.

 

Joseph jauregui
Watch this video at 4:02 you will see the 2 piece design of the tensioner.

You should be able to remove the second part with a strong magnet installed in the hole...might take a few tries with a really good magnet. If not you will need to remove the timing cover to push it out from the front of the engine( Big job).

BTW THIS VIDEO IS HOW NOT TO INSTALLTHE NEW TENSIONER...IT NEEDS TO LOOK JUST LIKE TO OLD ONE CAME OUT....DO NOT INSTALL IT IN THE RETRACTED POSITION...OIL PRESSURE WILL NOT OPEN IT. It is like a touch latch on a cabinet AND NEEDS TO BE COMPRESSED AGAIN TO OPEN IT FULLY. You can play with your old or new one and see how it works.
You will see in the comments how he later reports that the chain rattle WAS NOT SOLVED...wonder why with the tensioner retracted.

 

Thanks guys. Will re-install, this time extended, and hope it works this time.

 

That's what threw me. Mod Mini installs his the same way - retracted as you see here at 4:01 and the problem cleared up:

 

Here is the Bentley Manual for installing the tensioner (while changing the timing chain)...You will see in the red rectangle to retract the tensioner and in the Green rectangle to use a pry bar to activate/open the tensioner.

 

If anyone stumbles on this in the future. A simple magnet pulls out the tensioner.

 

I bought a "tested" tensioner for my R52s.....it came retracted....I installed it and didn't have any issues

Bryan

 

I looked at a couple of my go to parts suppliers and didn't see anything about tested tensioners. What are the sources for tested tensioners?

 

I got mine from Pelican Parts.....cost around $50 a few years ago....came with this piece of paper....and it came collapsed so it's easier installed into the engine

Bryan

 

For anyone wondering what they mean by saying it needs to be installed in the extended position.. when you get your part the tensioner is closed and inside of itself, to fix that you take the black plastic piece off, and grab it between your thumb and fore finger and squeeze it into itself gently. it might take a couple tries, but eventually you'll hear a "pop" and it'll open right up. Now it's ready to be installed and you don't need to go pressing against your chain guides with pry Bars or take anything else apart. Simply undo the 19mm bolt, slide the old tensioner out, put the new tensioner into the bolt with the black plastic piece, and slide it back into the engine. Torque it down to 45 ft/lbs. Clean up any spilled oil and maybe add some, but you should only lose a few drops. And you're good to go

 

Wait, your supposed to have it extended like in the pic? All the videos I've seen show it retracted when being installed.

I installed mine today to help with a noise and it's much worse now. $25 part off Amazon made in china. Going to get a $40 Bilstein one and see if it improves. Ugh, I hate working on this car!

 

Installed mine retracted per the ModMINI video and the Bentley manual. No issues.


Installing the timing chain and cover, Bentley, p. 117-20

Installing the timing chain and cover, Bentley, p. 117-21