Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain My build. Teaser photos and updates

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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 07:46 AM
  #176  
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Very nice!!

Man that is some tight fitment heh.

This dump tube was about 1/4" away from the radiator lol
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 07:58 AM
  #177  
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those headers look like alot of man hours, so many welds.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 10:48 AM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by rckrzy1
those headers look like alot of man hours, so many welds.
Over 37.5 feet of welds to be exact :3

 
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 09:15 AM
  #179  
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You are going to go back and grind those welds smooth and polish the whole thing, right????
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 05:10 AM
  #180  
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love the shots of the "tools" your using, im looking to buy a tig/mig soon so i love to see what people are using. as for cutting all your pie cuts what are you using? sorry if i missed that earlier in the thread
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 03:41 PM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by stover91
love the shots of the "tools" your using, im looking to buy a tig/mig soon so i love to see what people are using. as for cutting all your pie cuts what are you using? sorry if i missed that earlier in the thread
Thanks!

Just using a horizontal / vertical combination band saw from norther tool. They are quite cheap (< $300), but some of the parts are cheap.
Lots of forums advice as to how to make them into very competent machines for cheap.

A few bearing upgrades etc (very inexpensive) and a good blade go an insanely long way.

For example : Those pie cuts measured within .2 deg and .0015" from the first cut to the last (over 90 cuts)


Originally Posted by Herleman
You are going to go back and grind those welds smooth and polish the whole thing, right????
NOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!
If any fabricator who is making you turbo headers out of high-end material ever suggests it you should run like wild fire!!

In fact, if you ever look at true racing headers (thin wall. Proper materials. 321 SS or higher (inconel, titanium)), their welds are not full penetration, but have convex outside beads.

The beads on the inside of the tubing disrupt flow, and have quite profound effects. (if you are more interested, I advise you to somehow take a course on advanced fluid flow that encompases super sonic gas flow. Even small bumps can wreak havoc.... and yes your exhaust gas in the primaries is super sonic)

I may polish them, but that would be the extent of it.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 04:22 PM
  #182  
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I really was kidding. I suspect that the outside beads also provide an increased and beneficial cooling surface. Beside, all of the work needs to be seen. I envy your ability and capability with the torch. Its really an art form.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 05:23 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by soccerbummer1104
If any fabricator who is making you turbo headers out of high-end material ever suggests it you should run like wild fire!!
I think that statement is a little extreme. Yes, you might loose a little hp but it's not like it's going to outright kill the performance. It's really a matter of personal taste. A lot of people will sacrifice a little performance for the smooth, polished appearance. To each his own.

That being said, it's your build do it your way. And it is a kick *** build.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 02:05 PM
  #184  
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To each their own. I would rather do it so it will last for hours of beatings on track and through the mountains.

but anywho

ONWARDS!



As most of you can guess by now.. I like things to line up, and when they do not, it does not make me a happy camper, so I fix it.


I present you the turbo V band, that is supposed to be 2.5" ID

My build. Teaser photos and updates-4imcvar.jpg


Doesn't look too far off right? Well it is enough to make getting it straight, and welding it kind of a PITA.

So I went out and ordered one of these lovelies from LISLE.

My build. Teaser photos and updates-0toa1tf.jpg

!

It's a pipe expander kit. Much like the one you can rent from advance auto, but it is meant to be used with an impact wrench and has a much more shallow taper and wont break. (I have never had any luck with the rental ones at least)


Plus I kind of wanted one anyways... This one will do from 1-5/8" up to 4 1/4" tubing (SS)


So ran it in the pipe, impacted away, and voila!!

My build. Teaser photos and updates-fxcssn4.jpg

snug as a bug in a rug :3


Yes I am going to weld it with this much sticking out.
Leaving a hair for expansion, but this will make the transition from the outlet to the down pipe just a hair smoother.

My build. Teaser photos and updates-bsbjjtv.jpg


rough idea of how this should be running. Need to put it all back in the car first and double check before I tac or weld anything though.

[imghttps://i.imgur.com/FaXVe1c.jpg[/img]


That should be all for today!
May do some work this evening, but it got cold again.. and I just am apathetic about going outside to work on the car. haha.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 04:59 PM
  #185  
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I learned that when it comes to vbands ALWAYS STICK TO VIBRANT.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 09:20 PM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by daonlyillwiz
I learned that when it comes to vbands ALWAYS STICK TO VIBRANT.
Yeah... The rest of it is. All my V-bands, flex sections and bungs are vibrant hardware, but this one was the one that came welded to the turbine housing, so I had to use it :/

I asked Comp if they could put a vibrant on it when I ordered it and they said they used what they had in the shop.
It looks like a quality band, just a bit over-sized and doesn't have the quick release like the vibrant or the machined centering lip.

But I agree. Whenever it is in my hands, Vibrant all the way.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 05:03 AM
  #187  
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In case no one ever says it, we have all learned so much from this thread. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 07:10 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by Herleman
In case no one ever says it, we have all learned so much from this thread. Thanks.
Thanks!


I have to admit I chuckled when I first mentioned I was starting this build and a bunch of people told me it will not work, and it cannot be done, and parts were not available

I believe someone tagged that thread "soccer fail"

time will tell, but most of those people have since gone quiet.

Anywho, Did a small bit of fitup and welding last night.
Ran some great welds on the first turn of the downpipe.

Sorry for potato quality, but battery was low and lighting not too great for camera purposes.

My build. Teaser photos and updates-sjmrd8z.jpg
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 07:27 AM
  #189  
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Very nice, you should get the manifold/turbine housing ceramic coated (swaintech) AND you should def get a turbo blanket to keep heat down... everything is way too close to the oil filter/valvecover.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 08:33 AM
  #190  
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oh I plan to.

Will sort of be painful to cover the manifold with it, but it will happen.

I am also "making" some heat shields with some pyrogel blankets (1200°F aerogel insulation material)
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 08:38 AM
  #191  
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cool

Totally agree with you but it has to get done

That would be interesting to see, im so subscribed to this thread lol.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 06:45 PM
  #192  
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got some work done on the upper and lower downpipes today
(just a downpipe that can split in half with a V-band)

My build. Teaser photos and updates-kmas56r.jpg
Getting better at this whole welding thing :3
:P


showing clearances as it was mentioned earlier today.
When I put the little 15° pieces in on the header it really pulled the turbo away from the valve cover.

Heat management is still a concern, but this at least shows it is not near as bad as it once was.

My build. Teaser photos and updates-vauktwc.jpg




The upper section of the down pipe.
(including the slip in section for the turbo )

My build. Teaser photos and updates-ppfckj3.jpg


aaand skipped a few steps...

voila!

bottom section of downpipe!
Almost complete... just need to cut a funky hole and merge the waste gate in with it :|

My build. Teaser photos and updates-4q1l09q.jpg


All for today!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 07:17 PM
  #193  
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Damn, you have enough room for the oil feed/return (mainly the return) remember you have to fit the fitting PLUS the 90* or 45* also don't forget to **** the center cartridge so that the return is facing straight down or at a downwards angle.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 07:18 PM
  #194  
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Ps: just dump the wastegate, don't recirc.

RACECAR!!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 08:00 PM
  #195  
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I debated dumping, but I want a quieter car as this will be doing some highway cruising.

and it's an oil-less turbo no worries about that. Just water fittings. haha.

(Comp triplex ceramic ball bearing with o-ring seals and high temp grease)
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 08:06 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by soccerbummer1104
I debated dumping, but I want a quieter car as this will be doing some highway cruising.

and it's an oil-less turbo no worries about that. Just water fittings. haha.

(Comp triplex ceramic ball bearing with o-ring seals and high temp grease)

Fair enough... I was dumping out the side of my bumper...i cant even begin to tell you how loud it was...lets just say i feel sorry for whatever car was on my left lol.

Fancy turbo!
 
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 05:32 AM
  #197  
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but dumping out the bumper is bad ***
 
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 05:49 AM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by Saltysalt
but dumping out the bumper is bad ***
oh yea, no doubt about that lol
 
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 08:22 AM
  #199  
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snagged a quick shot this morning of the DP in place.

My build. Teaser photos and updates-uwtosac.jpg
 
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 04:39 AM
  #200  
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My build. Teaser photos and updates-kpyiwkg.jpg
 
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