crazy sauce

 

sometimes you just gotta love having a sunroof.




New battery is in the car (had a whoopsie with the braille I had in the car.. use the correct charger kids! And use one that shuts itself off instead of pumping 20V into the battery when you forget about it while talking to someone ! (:| )

Close up on the auxiliary board.

Uses 2 panasonic relays. The 100 ohm resistors are there to reduce the voltage to the coil on the relays, just to help with spikes, and longevity of the coil. It's rated to 25 or 30V, but the duty cycle was 100% at ~10V, so the resistors help drop the voltage to a good level.

the main inlet power is fused with the 10A fuses, and each outlet port is fused as well.






did a little more work after this, but not much. This is basically how the wiring will sit under the dash. Does not interfere with anything, and the cover closes easily and allows all of the cables to move to avoid straining connections.

A lot of the 'main' die down points are using releasable / reusable zip ties in case I ever need to dig back into it.

The only gauge that is not running off this board will be the boost gauge, as it is mechanical with two needles, and the only power it needs is for the lighting, but it will work with the factory PWM circuit (dim with the dash brightness), so I will play around with that more on it's own. I will probably have to add a resistor in line to it to bring it's brightness into line with that of the dash, but from that point, it will dim and brighten with the dash control.



and finally a fun little gif. not sure where I will mount the boost gauge yet... perhaps down next to the cup holders. Its just so non visible down there though...

 

If you had a youtube channel about designing and making this stuff I'd watch the crud out of that.

 

While I do not intend to start doing that, Might I suggest a few.

aVe - specifically his BOLTR's - funny canadian guy. not an engineer but could be. Lots of practical knowledge, loves to neard out about tool design and tears stuff apart and figures out what will break. Also loves to fabricobble (do something crazy on the cheap in a very resourceful way)


Bad Obsession Motorsports - Project Binkey
(shoehorning an celica GT4 drivetrain into a classic mini) - british humor and great fabracation. They try to do a lot of it (besides having a rotisserie and some other stuff) with items you might have access to or would not be that difficult to make. Use cardboard for templates for sheet metal, and usually use a angle grinder to cut and shape the steel, then bend it up in a home-made brake and weld it in.

This Old Tony - american or canadian stuck in europe. Machinist channel. Good stuff. Superbly edited. makes lots of stuff, pick up lots of little helper techniques in the middle of his videos.

NYC CNC - guy started out as a hobby machinist with a cnc in his NYC (manhattan) appt, grew into a business but he does well edited videos, shows a lot of his mistakes, and I have used a lot of his channels to stay on top of interesting techniques.
He is still learning some things, but he has taught me a lot as well.

Abom is good as well. but it's heavy machining and long-format videos.

Oh, and last but definately not least.

Welding Tips and Tricks : this is a must if you are getting into welding. Great instructional videos. Amazingly nice guy, and has fantastic 'arc shots' (videos of what you see through your welding helmet) so you can see what the weld process should look like. Helps to know what you should be seeing so you can aim for that while you are doing it. Also goes through lots of equiptment, techniques, etc. Wonderful wonderful channel. And if you get into aluminum welding, pick up some of his tig fingers. Worth way more than what he charges. bahaha (don't tell him that though!)

 

Video of some revs while working on tip in / accel enrichment.


Enjoy!

 

Thanks for sharing this. I've been watching the videos all day

Really talented and funny guys.

 

Your fabrication skills ... well done.

 

Insane build my friend!! WOW!! Big question I have for you, is the motor built?

 

lol! nope. Stock internals. Stock head :3 (that might come some day. We shall see) Stock internals are good for 280whp on a turbo, turbo is good for a lot more than that, but we will see the sort of power balance we can get with 15-16psi and e85

 

We have similar taste my friend! Just glad to see your passion! In road race trim our MINI would run about 540whp and I was just wondering what you were trying to push! Cant wait to see more of your build!!

Dez

 

double post

 

Finally finished up a 'round to it' this evening and made the ducting for the intercooler. What a PITA! But not too bad. Lots of trimming and hand filing and shaping and taking the part on and off.

I started by making the base that picked up off of three of the factory intercooler bracket mounts. The other large holes are for the knock sensor connection.



Next i shaped the sides. These are what took the bulk of the time. Getting them close enough to the closed hood so the bulb seal could do its thing, but far enough away that there were no issues closing the hood or resultant rattles.

Had to make it in a few pieces. Lots of welding, linishing, blending, bending, notching, bending, rewelding etc was done.



The top piece ended up getting the most change. I had to actually bend it 45 deg furthar forward and trim it down in order to get the bulb seal on and have the hood close.



Finished with bulb seals installed! Still keeds a few foam strips on the back where it meets the front of the intercooler.. but other than that.




Seals well.

 

 

What did you end up making on the conservative tune? I'm curious to see what I can get from my straight 50 trim T03, although part of me is wishing I went the twin charged route because it would've been easier to fabricate. Then again, I've heard stories about rotors stretching and contacting the housing on twin charged designs, and that was enough to make me leery.

 

I had pretty high IAT's, even when cruising, so we kept it very conservative. Stock-bolt-on power output. (210whp / 185wtq)


Coupled with the high IAT's I have a 'lack of' torque before the turbo spool.. which is odd. The SC is also not making as much noise at idle as it used to.

The charger is a re-built unit with.. maybe 400 miles on it, but it is 3 years old.

About a year ago I started finding oil in the SC inlet pipe I fabricated (slight greenish tint, not motor oil) , and figured it was from the SC, but I polled both of the oil reservoirs and there was still oil in them.

Don't currently have the time to rip back into it, but at some point I am going to put a thermistor into the SC inlet via the old PCV suction port and look at temps pre and post SC.

Even cruising around town out of boost, the lowest IAT I had was 45C on a 15C day, which I found odd. Boost would creep that up to ~60C. ( I mean.. it is a relatively small intercooler core.. but that is a tad excessive I think... for 12-15psi)

I also think kinking my SC inlet tube for the fan was a bit agressive, and is restricting flow to the SC. Part of that will be evaluated durring the thermistor test (I am also planning on hooking up a pressure gauge there. Perhaps running a reference line and using the factory upstream map sensor) to look at the relative vacuum formed at the SC inlet in the RPM range where I am feeling a lack of power. (it makes ~ 135 ft lbs... )

Could be piping related, bad SC related, or a multitude of factors.

Car is still a lot of fun, even with the conservative power numbers, when blasting it on back roads above 4k . but I think a lot of that is just from the sound.

Get a lot of heads turning when she starts to spool from the sound it makes

 

Crossover (twincharge bypass) valve working! Supercharger kicks in swellingly, compounded boost hits till about 13psi, needle holds roughly there till turbo (red needle) catches up, and then the car runs off of turbo pressure + the pressure drop across the crossover valve! (~1-2 psi)

 

Looks good! Finally got my turbo conversion finished off, I was surprised that I didn't really lose as much bottom end torque as I thought I would when ditching the m45. I guess getting rid of the parasitic loss helped some at lower rpm's.

 

crossover gauge expained in non-engineering terms. a lot of it is 'not correct' but it will help the non technical people understand more of what is going on with the gauge.

 

yay it runs! turbo sounds real nice!


when you say crossover, do you mean you vent the supercharger back through recirc or atm?

 

The crossover works much like a spring-only wastegate. Recirculates back into the SC. So plumbed up much like the factory BPV, but it is boost operated via pushing the valve stem open (like a wastegate)

The 'top hat' is only hooked open on the 'hold it closed' side, and that line is hooked up to a regulator. Vacuum helps to pull it open to re-circ at part throttle (work as the BPV.. more just for noise so it is not dumping out the BOV at cruise)

but in boost I can tell it to provide 2psi to 'help' the spring, or 4psi, or whatever. Lets me set the opening pressure of this crossover.

But with the regulator off, the spring pressure alone starts to creep open around 12-13 psi post-supercharger. (until the pressure into the SC, on the other side of the valve is within 2ish psi of that regulated pressure.. then it rises with the turbo outlet pressure, maintaining about a 2psi rise above that turbo pressure as that is what the delP across that valve comes out to to bleed off all of the compounded boost through it.

 

This thread is so good, I congratulate you again on an epic MINI build.

 

I have an r53 dedicated for track. I deleted the heating system and oil/coolant system and installed the oil/air intercooler. Also installed an aluminum overflow tank but am have over heating problems relatively quickly once driving. 3-5( minutes) what advice do you have for cooling system routing using that setup? Anything special ?

 

Nothing special. Heck, I'm still running the heater core side of the circuit and plumbed a turbo into it!
If your coolant is overheating that quickly, I would lean more to your pump not actually moving water around. Likely due to an air pocket in the system, it is quite irritating to bleed.

Not sure of the state you got the car in, but have you verified the water pump still spins? (I.e. the supercharger PTO gears still exist and are in good condition?)

The heater core is the "warm up loop", but I assume you just plumbed that smaller block outlet right into the smaller pump inlet? Hopefully you left the bit of tubing right there with the bleed screw on it. That high spot can be a pita to bleed!

 

What’s new Brad?