Drivetrain My build thread.
I'm trying to decide whether it not to dual boot my MacBook.. A full version of Windows 8 is ~$250, and you can get a new netbook or laptop here for that.. I want to run NCS.
Even though I've been pretty quiet on here, I've been following your thread ever since you started. Glad to see everything coming together !
Even though I've been pretty quiet on here, I've been following your thread ever since you started. Glad to see everything coming together !
I got that netbook for basically less then the price of the new windows OS. It is much more simple to have two computers. This way I can bring the PC with me and not really have to worry about it.
I use an old Macbook that I boot camped into windows 7 for this. However I wouldn't bother trying to get windows 8 to work with it. I know there were a ton of issues getting windows 7 to work and setting up com ports and such when I had my BMW. Thankfully some guys in the BMW world figured it out but it doesn't play nice with 64bit. Windows 8 is too new and no one I have talked to likes it, so I wouldn't expect anyone to figure out how to make it play nice with NCS and inpa yet.
Good to know. I have a Mac that I solely run Windows 7 (now 8) on, and will be playing with NCS in the next couple of months. I'll enjoy the challenge of trying to get it to work 
Sorry to have derailed the thread, was just curious on what your thought process was when getting a different PC, and it was what I expected. I can only imagine that Netbooks are perfect for this purpose.
Anyways, back on topic, how's everything working so far MNIPWR?

Sorry to have derailed the thread, was just curious on what your thought process was when getting a different PC, and it was what I expected. I can only imagine that Netbooks are perfect for this purpose.
Anyways, back on topic, how's everything working so far MNIPWR?
Slight setback, it seems that my turbo is leaking out of the compressor side of things. Not sure why at this point but there is oil on everything downstream of it. Thankfully I have a BOV so I could see this. I never would of noticed otherwise. My oil level is still good.
Get parallels or fusion for your Mac. It allows you to run both the Mac OS and the Windows operations system at the same time. This way you don't have to re boot the computer. Do know it does require some heavy processing power and ram. I would recommend an i5 processor and 4g of ram at the least. I work for Apple. Also, you can get windows 8 for about 100 on best buys web site. Just make sure you get the system builder.
Also a clip of the DashDyno
Last edited by MNIPWR; Feb 27, 2013 at 07:23 PM.
The turbo has a warrantee so they should be fixing that all for free. They should pay for the shipping and everything too. Luckily it didn't grenade on me and destroy my engine.
Until someone develops a full standalone ECU, good luck trying to convert the car to port fuel injection. Even with a fully built motor, the N14 will never be able to reach its full potential without a standalone.
I am excited to see MNIPWR's results though, I applaud him for keeping us all updated on his build.
MNIPWR...let me know when you're gonna have Jan tune it, I'd like to be there...I'm right by the shop. It will bring back memories of when we spent countless hours tuning my MCS w/ JCW turbo
I am excited to see MNIPWR's results though, I applaud him for keeping us all updated on his build.
As far as I'm concerned as long as the ecu can count the rpm's to my request, supply proper ign advance/retard up to my given power numbers, and generally operate stock with the parts Ive chosen then there isn't a reason to go standalone.
Standalone ECU's are for two groups of people those that want people to know they have standalone's, and those that have needs other than making power I.E. launch control, OTF map switching , live tuning and flashing, nitrous integration, anti-lag... ETC.
MINIPWR
Few question's/comments
1. Why did you decide to run that BOV? Unless I'm mistaken I saw a hks ssqv style bov on the cold side pipe? I have put on G-pop turbo's before, and the stock diverter is more than enough to get the job done. Just put a larger spring in and it's all gravy.
2. Can you please explain your PCV system a bit, are you dumping your valve cover into a filter? Your running a forged setup, and a stock head? that means an *** load of blow by. Not really a bad thing, but it's going to spray your transmission like a bond car oil slick.
3. Your going to find that the way your setup is right now you are giong to run into a bit of a bottle neck. Iv'e essentially built the same setup as you have right now, What is important to note is that with the head the way it is your going to need to rely on boost pressure to make you power. This is fundamentally wrong for reasons that I'm sure your aware of. as it stands at 20psi we made 256 on a conservative dyno. The the turbo had more but as you well know the ECU won't read more boost unless you run an aftermarket boost controller. We could have kept going but it seemed silly to push it harder when we were starting to drastically fall off on the boost per HP scale.
The head just wouldn't flow any more
Problem number 2 was that the car only made that power when it was in optimum conditions. Due to the nature of the ECU the car will raise/lower the boost pressure to hit what it believe to be a calculated load number. This means that if you Tune the car to what you believe to be 20psi you'll quickly find that you hit boost cut every other day.
The solution?
Head work, and an aftermarket boost controller (a REALLY REALLY good one .... perhaps 2.... not joking). I saw that you said that you were thinking of a THUMPER performance head. I don't know anything about it so I won't comment, but it sounds like your going in the right direction.
4. Finally, I would ditch that turbo... I will be perfectly honest with you. I have yet to max one of those things out, It's basically the big K03-23 if I remember correctly. From what I gather the turbo is good to about 300, but why push it and find out? I guarantee if you look at a compressor map that SOB is well past it's efficiency range anywhere near that. With the build you have you should be able to support 350 bottom end easy, why not just step it up have someone make you a tubular length and strap on a gt28-80 or something of the sort? Yes, I know the fuel situation is a bit of a nightmare, but show me someone that has found the limit's to it yet?
Sorry for the long post, I just get excited to see someone else pushing the platform and I am only trying to help. no negativity meant
I've never understood this train of thought? people automatically assume that a standalone is a must once you go past bolt on's. But no one ever gives a reason. What happens after 200 horsepower that someone isn't telling me?
As far as I'm concerned as long as the ecu can count the rpm's to my request, supply proper ign advance/retard up to my given power numbers, and generally operate stock with the parts Ive chosen then there isn't a reason to go standalone.
Standalone ECU's are for two groups of people those that want people to know they have standalone's, and those that have needs other than making power I.E. launch control, OTF map switching , live tuning and flashing, nitrous integration, anti-lag... ETC.
MINIPWR
Few question's/comments
1. Why did you decide to run that BOV? Unless I'm mistaken I saw a hks ssqv style bov on the cold side pipe? I have put on G-pop turbo's before, and the stock diverter is more than enough to get the job done. Just put a larger spring in and it's all gravy.
It's just insurance really. The stock DV may be enough but this will relieve stress on the part to help longevity. Additionally it proved itself, if I didn't have it on there I would probably still be driving around on that time bomb of a turbo. I may or may not like the sound under high boost shifts.
2. Can you please explain your PCV system a bit, are you dumping your valve cover into a filter? Your running a forged setup, and a stock head? that means an *** load of blow by. Not really a bad thing, but it's going to spray your transmission like a bond car oil slick.
Currently I have the passenger side PCV blocked off with a hose going from the front point down and back under the car where there will be a low pressure, no filter on it. I do still currently have the stock head because I spent the money on a differential instead. I plan to upgrade as soon as i save up again. As for blow by the head has nothing to do with that.
3. Your going to find that the way your setup is right now you are giong to run into a bit of a bottle neck. Iv'e essentially built the same setup as you have right now, What is important to note is that with the head the way it is your going to need to rely on boost pressure to make you power. This is fundamentally wrong for reasons that I'm sure your aware of. as it stands at 20psi we made 256 on a conservative dyno. The the turbo had more but as you well know the ECU won't read more boost unless you run an aftermarket boost controller. We could have kept going but it seemed silly to push it harder when we were starting to drastically fall off on the boost per HP scale.
The head just wouldn't flow any more
Exactly why I plan to upgrade to a thumper performance head once I refill the coffers
Problem number 2 was that the car only made that power when it was in optimum conditions. Due to the nature of the ECU the car will raise/lower the boost pressure to hit what it believe to be a calculated load number. This means that if you Tune the car to what you believe to be 20psi you'll quickly find that you hit boost cut every other day.
The solution?
Head work, and an aftermarket boost controller (a REALLY REALLY good one .... perhaps 2.... not joking). I saw that you said that you were thinking of a THUMPER performance head. I don't know anything about it so I won't comment, but it sounds like your going in the right direction.
I was putting 240 to the wheels at 20 psi on the stock turbo before I did this build and I never experienced any kind of boost cuts.
4. Finally, I would ditch that turbo... I will be perfectly honest with you. I have yet to max one of those things out, It's basically the big K03-23 if I remember correctly. From what I gather the turbo is good to about 300, but why push it and find out? I guarantee if you look at a compressor map that SOB is well past it's efficiency range anywhere near that. With the build you have you should be able to support 350 bottom end easy, why not just step it up have someone make you a tubular length and strap on a gt28-80 or something of the sort? Yes, I know the fuel situation is a bit of a nightmare, but show me someone that has found the limit's to it yet?
The stock turbo or the G-Pop turbo? 300HP I believe is very reasonable to flow out of the G-pop Turbo. I don't think I will be getting close to that so it should be fine. The GT28 is just too much of a hassle.
Sorry for the long post, I just get excited to see someone else pushing the platform and I am only trying to help. no negativity meant
Thanks, Input is always welcome. Hopefully I clarified your questions. If not ask away.
As far as I'm concerned as long as the ecu can count the rpm's to my request, supply proper ign advance/retard up to my given power numbers, and generally operate stock with the parts Ive chosen then there isn't a reason to go standalone.
Standalone ECU's are for two groups of people those that want people to know they have standalone's, and those that have needs other than making power I.E. launch control, OTF map switching , live tuning and flashing, nitrous integration, anti-lag... ETC.
MINIPWR
Few question's/comments
1. Why did you decide to run that BOV? Unless I'm mistaken I saw a hks ssqv style bov on the cold side pipe? I have put on G-pop turbo's before, and the stock diverter is more than enough to get the job done. Just put a larger spring in and it's all gravy.
It's just insurance really. The stock DV may be enough but this will relieve stress on the part to help longevity. Additionally it proved itself, if I didn't have it on there I would probably still be driving around on that time bomb of a turbo. I may or may not like the sound under high boost shifts.
2. Can you please explain your PCV system a bit, are you dumping your valve cover into a filter? Your running a forged setup, and a stock head? that means an *** load of blow by. Not really a bad thing, but it's going to spray your transmission like a bond car oil slick.
Currently I have the passenger side PCV blocked off with a hose going from the front point down and back under the car where there will be a low pressure, no filter on it. I do still currently have the stock head because I spent the money on a differential instead. I plan to upgrade as soon as i save up again. As for blow by the head has nothing to do with that.
3. Your going to find that the way your setup is right now you are giong to run into a bit of a bottle neck. Iv'e essentially built the same setup as you have right now, What is important to note is that with the head the way it is your going to need to rely on boost pressure to make you power. This is fundamentally wrong for reasons that I'm sure your aware of. as it stands at 20psi we made 256 on a conservative dyno. The the turbo had more but as you well know the ECU won't read more boost unless you run an aftermarket boost controller. We could have kept going but it seemed silly to push it harder when we were starting to drastically fall off on the boost per HP scale.
The head just wouldn't flow any more
Exactly why I plan to upgrade to a thumper performance head once I refill the coffers
Problem number 2 was that the car only made that power when it was in optimum conditions. Due to the nature of the ECU the car will raise/lower the boost pressure to hit what it believe to be a calculated load number. This means that if you Tune the car to what you believe to be 20psi you'll quickly find that you hit boost cut every other day.
The solution?
Head work, and an aftermarket boost controller (a REALLY REALLY good one .... perhaps 2.... not joking). I saw that you said that you were thinking of a THUMPER performance head. I don't know anything about it so I won't comment, but it sounds like your going in the right direction.
I was putting 240 to the wheels at 20 psi on the stock turbo before I did this build and I never experienced any kind of boost cuts.
4. Finally, I would ditch that turbo... I will be perfectly honest with you. I have yet to max one of those things out, It's basically the big K03-23 if I remember correctly. From what I gather the turbo is good to about 300, but why push it and find out? I guarantee if you look at a compressor map that SOB is well past it's efficiency range anywhere near that. With the build you have you should be able to support 350 bottom end easy, why not just step it up have someone make you a tubular length and strap on a gt28-80 or something of the sort? Yes, I know the fuel situation is a bit of a nightmare, but show me someone that has found the limit's to it yet?
The stock turbo or the G-Pop turbo? 300HP I believe is very reasonable to flow out of the G-pop Turbo. I don't think I will be getting close to that so it should be fine. The GT28 is just too much of a hassle.
Sorry for the long post, I just get excited to see someone else pushing the platform and I am only trying to help. no negativity meant
Thanks, Input is always welcome. Hopefully I clarified your questions. If not ask away.




