Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain My build thread.

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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 05:46 AM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by MNIPWR
Just high temp paint to resist rust and clean up the hideous heat shield.
Hmm hopefully it will hold up.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 11:46 AM
  #152  
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I'm not worried about it holding up. I plan to get them ceramic coated anyway.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 02:33 PM
  #153  
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Cleaned up my valve cover and put a couple stickers on it. They add Hp if you didn't know.


More importantly my head gasket came in from Cometic.


Now its the waiting game for all the little seals and gaskets to come in the mail. Then everything gets put back together.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #154  
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Is ARP selling head bolts yet or did you just stick with stock?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 12:44 AM
  #155  
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I just stuck with stock. The stock head bolts are plenty strong.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 05:21 AM
  #156  
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The stock head bolts are probably torque to yield, which means that they should be replaced with new stock bolts (since they have been stretched during initial engine assembly). Also make sure that the head and block are surfaced properly for the cometic gaskets, but I am sure that your machine shop understands that if they build drag motors. They have a reputation for being wonderful gaskets but need a very smooth surface to seal properly.
Nice job so far, you must have been pretty close to getting your ducati. You are buying top shelf parts and should have a powerful and durable MINI for years to come.

Have fun,
Mike
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 05:29 AM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by MNIPWR
I just stuck with stock. The stock head bolts are plenty strong.
I didn't know what your intentions were boost-wise so I was curious.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #158  
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Boost I'll probably stay at the MCS cut off. It is just to much hassle to go any higher. If it was as simple as buying a JCW MAF sensor I would. But as we know it is not.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 05:34 PM
  #159  
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Ill just leave my completed engine here.



Everything is back from the machine shop. Now I am just waiting for a few little things and it will be all back together in no time.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 01:57 AM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by MNIPWR
Ill just leave my completed engine here.



Everything is back from the machine shop. Now I am just waiting for a few little things and it will be all back together in no time.
Now I may be crazy, and correct me if I am wrong, but I swear when I looked at the pistons in my stock JCW that pistons 1 and 4 were in one orientation and 2 and 3 180 degrees opposite. I'm talking about the teardrop shaped shaped impression on the piston crown. Yours are all the same direction??

I don't have a picture with the head off unortunately to confirm. I may simply be going senile and my recollection may be wrong. Can anyone shed any light?

Robbo
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 01:59 AM
  #161  
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That would be bad if yours were rotated. The injectors are all on the same side.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 02:00 AM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by MNIPWR
That would be bad if yours were rotated. The injectors are all on the same side.
Yep, I am going senile!! Just looked at some pics, and it is all the same direction

The rebuild is looking great btw. Can't wait to see how it performs.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 04:10 AM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by MNIPWR
Ill just leave my completed engine here.



Everything is back from the machine shop. Now I am just waiting for a few little things and it will be all back together in no time.
So clean!

Did you decide to go with replacement BMW bearings for the crank, rods, and cams or was your builder able to find something better? I'm also kind of curious where you were able to find the tolerances for all that stuff so you know your engine was in spec Typically that would be in an engine build manual but I don't think there is one out there for the N14 engine.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 08:26 AM
  #164  
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Actually, there are some nice aftermarket bearings for the N14 engine both main and con-rod ones.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 09:04 AM
  #165  
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I'm guessing they're marketed under the Peugeot 207 name right?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 09:56 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by countryboyshane
I'm guessing they're marketed under the Peugeot 207 name right?
No, they are not marketed under the Peugeot name...All of them are Mini parts!

They are in the aftermarket scene since 2010...

here are my sets:
My build thread.-imageuploadedbytapatalk1358421325.401128.jpg

Vandervell racing is manufacturing them for Mahle Motorsport...

here is their catalog:
http://www.vandervell.co.uk/images/s...alogue1008.pdf
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 10:29 AM
  #167  
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What have you been doing to your MINI lately? Do you have a build thread?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 11:39 AM
  #168  
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Nope I have the BMW ones. I couldn't find anything, but apparently I didn't look hard enough. Would you be worried about fitment with the aftermarket bearings? The stock ones come in different thicknesses to maintain a equal outer diameter for the rod to connect to. As for the tolerances for the pistons and rods. That information came with the pistons.
 

Last edited by MNIPWR; Jan 22, 2013 at 12:07 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 11:39 AM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by MNIPWR
I am talking about the cat in the downpipe. I have already removed the secondary cat. The reason for relocating the one in the downpipe is due to fluid dynamics. Ill try to explain.

On a N/A car the exhaust gas exiting the combustion chamber cause a vacuum. Atmospheric pressure then pushes fresh air into the cylinders. The higher the velocity of the gasses leaving the combustion chamber the higher the velocity of the gasses going in. Now this works until velocity of the exciting gases exceeds the velocity of atmospheric pressure. Luckily we have turbos.

On a turbo car this matters when the car is cruising due to vacuum in the manifold. However since the exhaust has to be adequate while boosting the dynamics are incorrect for vacuum. This is part of the reason there is drone. Since turbo cars have pressure forcing air into the cylinders the exhaust gas velocity is not as important. The thing that is more important is that the exhaust flow is not impeded. When the flow is impeded it causes the turbo to work harder.

A cat works by having a materiel that is heated up from exhaust gasses and uses this heat to burn any excess fuel and any other crap it can. However it impedes exhaust flow. How much depends on the cat.

The reason for relocating is due to removing this flow impingement. By doing so you cause the exhaust gasses to have a higher flow then if the cat was in place, this make it easier for the turbos exhaust gasses to vacate the area and then the turbo doesn't work as hard pushing the fresh air in. It could also push it in faster since there are no gasses in the way.

Now removing it completely is ideal but that is smelly and illegal. Relocating it while probably still being somewhat illegal (not totally sure) it will be less noticeable, due to smell. When it is relocated downstream you give the gasses time to cool and expand. Pressure is inversely proportionate to volume. Since the volume between the turbo and the cat is greater than before the pressure is less. While the cat may be less efficient at cleaning the gasses due to it being cooler the turbo won't be working as hard and this can be tuned to give us more power.

That was long sorry, its not as simple as backpressure like people think.
I'm going to get this tattooed on my butt cheek so when people ask me how come I fart so much I can pull down my pants and explain the efficiency of releasing good exhaust gases.

In all seriousness this thread is great. I had CP pistons/eagle rods with a dartan half sleeved block on my 420 hp civic hatch and still blew it up. Nothing is perfect so I wish you all the luck in the world. What are your main goals with this build? I'm assuming this is a weekend track car? I'm still only halfway through the thread :/ keep it up though. And I'm 31 years old not 40+ :P
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 11:47 AM
  #170  
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Weekend warrior.. no it's my daily driver. My goal was to fix my daily driver. But I figured I might as wall spend a little more and make it awesome. If I had the extra cash I would of bought a new DD and then stroked this motor. Then it would be my weekend track car. I plan to do that anyway. just later on in life when I have a real job.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 11:55 AM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by MNIPWR
Weekend warrior.. no it's my daily driver. My goal was to fix my daily driver. But I figured I might as wall spend a little more and make it awesome. If I had the extra cash I would of bought a new DD and then stroked this motor. Then it would be my weekend track car. I plan to do that anyway. just later on in life when I have a real job.

When you were talking about relocating your cat.....would you see it beneficial for a setup like mine to have a downpipe with a cat? I'm looking to keep my car basic for a couple years I/E, tune, suspension. Should I pick up a catless downpipe or a downpipe with a cat? I live in Florida so we can blow smoke errrrwhere.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 12:02 PM
  #172  
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You can do what you want. It will be much louder and smell weird. You don't need to, but it will give you more power.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 12:28 PM
  #173  
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Stroking this motor would probably be a bad idea. It might generate more tq but, this engine doesn't need it. Me personally would destroke it so that I could have a higher redline and a little bit higher hp.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 12:30 PM
  #174  
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Oh and the exhaust doesn't smell bad without a cat, well at least mine doesn't.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #175  
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I would probably sleeve it and bore it out a stupid amount too. Neither will ever happen. Well I think the exhaust smells amazing. But most people do not.
 
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