Yeah, I suck as typing apparently. Still hate that exhaust sound.

 

It's really hard to get a sense of the true sound through videos unless one is there in person. Have you considered the Invidia catback with a catless DP. It really does sound very good.

I'd understand if the price is an issue as I know you're already in deep with the rebuild.

 

That is true. I'm just used to the straight pipe sound. No muffler will ever sound that good. I just want to quiet it down and keep the sound.

 

I ran the catless DP with just the Invidia resonator and no muffler for a few weeks, and it honestly wasn't all that different from running it with the muffler. The car is pretty quiet thanks to the turbo

I still will stand that the Invidia is the best sounding exhaust for the 56. Akrapovic is nice, but does not have the deep resonating tone that the Invidia does...not to mention the Invidia is half the price.

 

I think I might ditch this muffler and try just a resonator. If that doesn't work I am going to put a 100 cell cat at the tip.

 

Threw some lovely codes today.
Random misfire detected.
Cylinder 4 misfire detected
Cylinder 2 misfire detected
Cylinder 1 misfire detected

Hmm, weird.

 

Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere. Namely check the passenger PCV hose. That plastic piece of **** disintegrated on my and was causing one hell of a leak. I replaced it with some rubber hosing which looks better and less likely to crap out.

 

What PCV hose? Im pretty sure I didn't let it warm up enough. It went away right away. I was inside for an hour and only waited 38 seconds to backup. Then got the code.

 

So you deleted it? Hmmm you put new spark plugs in it right?

 

Yep. I think is was just not warm enough. Read the code and the freeze frame data. Everything looked good. Fuel pressure seemed a little low. Only 850 ish. I assume that goes up on demand

 

I think i'm going to relocate my battery. Back right sounds good to me, now to find the safest way to do it. (I'll probably find there is no safe way in a passenger car, and forget the idea. Don't want a battery bouncing around my interior if i crash)

 

Nothing wrong with a battery in the interior. All R53's are inside the car.

 

It would make your weight distribution very slightly better. The on-board tool kit section in the boot seems like a good candidate for a battery. If you're a real stickler it might be worth it.

 

I have mounted batteries in the back of a few cars. I used oo or ooo gage welding cable to get the power up to the front of the car.

You can buy it by the foot, so you can always get the length just right.

Dave

 

The R53 is sunk into the body tho. This would sit opposite to the meth tank. Which give me a good and safe way to mound it.

 

I have the battery mounted in the rear of my R53 race car. I removed the sunken box where the battery normally sites to make room for a straight through exhaust, and welded a flat plate in place. The battery is securely mounted in the rear of the car in a dedicated lightweight plastic battery box. The box is bolted to the floor of the car is acid proof etc etc. This passes scrutineering for racing where they are quite pedantic about safety etc. The box does not look out of place.

It would be very easy to mount the battery in the same spot in the R56, and would result in a significant improvement in weight distribution. As said above you would need to make sure you had the appropriate grade of wiring running to the front of the car.

One issue might be the pyrotechnic battery disconnection unit the cars have. You would probably have to disconnect this rather than relocate it, which no doubt would cause some codes, and may trigger an airbag light??

Robbo

 

Thanks for the info. I pulled up the rally America rule book and found there requirements. If its safe fore rally I'm be fine. They use the same plastic sealed battery box.

 

Don't underestimate the weight of the new battery cables. It is pretty easy to get 10' of length of 00 wire (assuming that you run both cables back, less if you want to create your own ground near the battery). If you end up with 10 lbs of wire additional on the car, moving the lightweight battery to the trunk may not be worth the trouble.

Mike

 

Wile you might be adding weight to the car the places it is being added will actually help the weight distribution. But I see what you mean.

 

Figured I would toss this in here since its already on my car.

Howerton Engineering prepared HFS-3 Water/Meth kit[/URL].

This wasn't to hard of an install. Took about 3 hours total.

First I took the tank and mounted it, then ran tube and wires through one of the rubber grommets in the floor board.



Then trimmed the vent hose and put shielding around the bundle.



I ran the hose and wires along the break lines into the engine bay.




From there I put it into the area in-between the engine and fire wall. Connecting the FAV next to the battery.



I ran the bundle of wires under the battery into the rubber grommet on the passenger side.




From there I ran it up to the "secret compartment". Popped out the plastic box and drilled a hole in it.



I installed the nozzle just before the Throttle body. (Has been moved further away since this picture)



I brought it in to Rush Motorsport's in San Diego to have the ECU wired. They tapped and soldered the wires.





I cleaned up all the wiring and this is the final result.





My Old Dyno graph along with the information they posted along with it on their website

The following dyno was performed on an 09 MINI Cooper S. The car was equipped with an aftermarket intercooler, BOV and catback exhaust, and a Howerton Engineering/Aquamist HFS-3 System. The car was dyno tuned with three runs overlayed on the graph below. The baseline run (light red line) is the stock tune without the water/methanol system activated. The middle line (green) is a stage 1 flash with the methanol turned on. The highest run (dark red line) is a custom dyno tune with the methanol system activated.


You can see from 5000-6500Rpm, there is a 55lb-ft of torque gain and from 5500-6500RPM a 60hp gain from the stock tune. Where the stock and stage 1 tune start losing torque at 4000RPM, the combination of custom tuning and the superior delivery of the Aquamist hardware and our setup of the Aquamist system keep the torque nearly flat through 5200RPM.

 

Looks like your attachments didn't work.

 

Fixed

 

Pretty impressive. Have you been able to schedule your tune yet, or do you need to put some miles on for break-in?

Mike

 

Need to put on some miles, and get my new head. Ran out of cash, bought the diff and clutch instead.

 

when you said you moved the nozzle farther away from the throttle body, did you put it before the BOV?