Both valves will be closed at the same time. This is the compression stroke. If there not than just keep turning the motor over till they are. There's only 4 options for you hahahah

 

Move the engine close the valves , then blast and vacuum, then move to the next cylinder, move the engine close the valves , then blast...etc

 

So I am working on this right now, and I put skewers in the 4 spark plug holes.

If the skewers are higher is the valve open or closed? Visually it looked like #1 and #4 were open, and #2 and #3 were closed, so I put skewers in and the two middle cylinders were lowest, #1 and #4 were high...

I am feeling overwhelmed by this job and the hours I spent taking the car apart, I fear I will just be putting it back together and having someone else do it.

 

I felt the same when I was doing it the first time, no worries. If the skewers are up, the valves are closed. As you said 1 and 4 are synched, and 2 and 3 are synced. Keep on keeping on, you'll get it done :-)

 

You can also see the actual valve position with a small mirror and strong flashlight. Roll up a towel to make cushion for your head and place it on cowling near windshield. Lean over, head on towel (for comfort) and you can see the valves and valve seat. When valves are closed there is no gap between valve and seat.

 

I tried using a flashlight to the back of the valves while looking down the sparkplug holes couldn't see any light. What I did was place the cardboard tube from a paper towel roll over the sparkplug hole & put my ear to it while using the compressor to gently blast air down the back of the valves. When closed no air can be heard & when you soak the valves the carb cleaner will not run into the cylinder

 

So I've come back to share my humility so maybe someone else can learn from my mistake.

First off, the 10mm bolt on the underside was a real PITA, finding it was pretty difficult but once it was found I just could not find the right tool to get it off, I think it took me 30 minutes to get that one bolt out with a combination of wrenches and sockets and extensions used over time.

So when I went to media blast the first valve, the plastic vacuum attachment instantly snapped and I had to needle nose the broken end out of the hole. With a ton of duck tape and a whole lot of patience I got it re-attached and moved on. My valves were so gunked up after 60k miles that I could not tell one from another. I used a flashlight and mirror, I tried laying on top of the car, my best view was from the video function on my phone with the flashlight on over the top of the valve. Even then, I couldn't tell one from another. My first inclination was to pour a bit of carb cleaner into the valve to make sure it didn't run down, I did this on the one I felt looked closed, and sure enough it puddled. I probably didn't wait long enough to see it run down but I moved on.

I blasted the hell out of that valve, I was so certain it was closed based on the view I got from my phone and the carb cleaner not draining(Which I sucked/sprayed out with the compressor before blasting). Turns out after coming on here and asking about the skewers that the valve I cleaned was not TDC, in fact, it was lower than the far left valve and the far right(I did middle right). I also noticed that there was a small buildup of walnut shells on the bottom of one of the valves and I couldn't get it out with any sort of patience or compressed air or vacuum use.

So in fear that I just destroyed my $15,000 investment into the best car I've ever owned, I went inside and had a beer. When I came back out and ran a vacuum through one side of the valve and blew compressed air with a rubber seal through the spark plug hole, sure enough carb cleaner came out as well as a few walnut shells. Just to be safe I did this on all 4 valves after rotating the engine manually, took the fuel pump fuse out, put everything back together after inspecting to make sure there was no visual sign of any walnut shells in the valve, left the spark plugs out and cranked the engine. Nothing came out of the top, but when I put everything back together with a bit of hesitation the car started. I took it for a short drive and it all seems to be okay, no check engine lights or anything.

This is the most invasive job I feel like I've done in terms of time spent taking the car apart, I did a head gasket on my old Volkswagen years ago with no issues so I thought I could tackle this but unfortunately the stress defeated me.

My word of advice for those doing this job for the first time, MAKE SURE THE VALVE IS CLOSED. Use every possible technique to do this, skewers, carb cleaner pooling, visual inspection, whatever is possible.

I'm praying that something doesn't go caput and that my short drive around the block without issues wasn't a fluke.

 

I was frustrated like you at the start of this job. I keep reading use a flashlight & if you can't see light your valves are closed but no matter how much I rotated my engine I never saw any light probably because like yours my valves were really bad. That's why I came up with the idea of using the compressor to blast air in, it was the only way I could tell my valves were closed.

Sorry to here that you've given up. I hope you give it another shot by the sounds of it your valves definitely need it.

 

Hey Guys,

I am from Malaysia and have gotten all the required parts to start blasting the carbon, unfortunately can't find the correct size of walnut shell.

The only supplier that willing to sell anything has size of Mesh 16/20 only and I have to get 65kg as it is their minimum requirement.

Can i use this Mesh 16/20 walnut shell with the BMW wand?

 

Not sure about the size, but if for any reason you cannot find out or the size that works there is another method to do the carbon clean up HERE. It does not require those tools and although walnut blasting is still the best and fastest method to clean the valves this is another good alternative. Good luck.

 

There are two different versions fine and medium: Some use fine and some use the medium.


https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES3107745__ES3107834/

 

HI Guys,

I managed to find the Grit #24 Walnut Shell and now ready to do some cleaning on my 2009 fJCW.

Thanks for all the advise, Will update once the cleaning is done.

This is how my intake valves look like with 85Km and plugged PVC throttle body :

 

Welcome.

Nice, yeah it about time. You have some build up but it's not near the worst I have seen.

 

Yes, agreed not the worst. This car has 30% of short trip and 70% long distance drive.


By plugin the PCV to the throttle body and also using a OCC on the cold side does help in my case. My throttle body was really clean, no oil deposit at all. The throttle body plastic flap as clean as new.


Anyway, I am using the Torco SR-1R 10w40 engine oil only.

 

Do you have a picture of your setup under the hood? I've not heard of running the PCV to the TB.

 

Sorry, what i meant was i have the PCV delete. where the valve cover and the opening in the intake manifold were plugged.

I don't have a picture now. Will gladly take one and show to you.

 

On the N14 engines, the hose coming from the left side of the valve cover (as looking at the engine from the front of the car) goes to the intake manifold just downstream of, and right next to, the throttle body.

 

Yeah, I'd like to see one. I've been wanting to run a catch can, but of all the under the hood pics I've seen I've never been able to figure out exactly where each hose gets routed in some of these setups.

 

I have the BSH catch can, it was an easy install. The PCV hose from the back of the cam cover is blocked off with a BSH gadget and the PCV hose to the turbocharger from the cam cover is replaced with a hose to the catch can and from the catch can to the turbocharger's PCV inlet. It's not complicated at all. The greatest portion of oil vapors are from the rear PCV line, which is blocked off with the BSH set up. This means less carbon build up.

I have run the BSH oil catch can for six years with no problems.

 

Long trips / less short trips seams to reduce the build up. Not eliminate it , but reduces it.

 

Hey Guys,

This is my engine bay pictures : https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...U0?usp=sharing

Going to perform the walnut cleaning next weekend, will post picture after that.

 

It looks real clean.

What do the intake valves look like?

 

hi DneprDave,


The picture of my intake valve is in post #137

 

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the all the help and advise.

Here is how all my intake valves look like.

 

That's quite the improvement!


I can't wait to do mine now.