Ok this can't be right. Can anyone who has installed the Sprintex tell me if the 2nd O-ring should be compressed or not seen? The 1 bolt that mates the two sides is all the way in I believe. I don't want to strip anything.

 

Yep that should be squeezed into the groove.

Helpful hint: Use generous amounts of vasolene on your O-rings and in the channels of all the O-ring connections.

 

DG R53 - should the o-ring only be squeezed, or should the two metal parts come together?

 

IIRC there is a groove for that O-ring on the inlet pipe. The ring goes into that groove and the inlet gets snugged right up to the S/C itself. It's a tight fit, and you are going to need lube.

The bolt in your pic is the one that cross threaded on me during my install. If the inlet is just a wee bit cocked in any direction its easy to do. Good news is, they actually left enough meat in the castings, that it can be drilled and tapped out to the next size up.

 

That O-Ring is a secondary seal because of the slight vibration there, the real seal is accomplished by the inner O-Ring that fits farther inside the S/C, "that one should be showing some". If the shoulder bolt has bottomed out, it is in all the way.
-Don't forget, that is on the "Intake" side of the equation, those seals aren't designed to be near as tight as on the "exit/pressure" side, that side is just drawing air.-

This is where I made my mistake, forgot about it completely, found it and had to take things back apart to install it correctly.

 

Thanks Mark, been a LONG time since I have done it. Next time will just be a simple removal, and F/S add.

 

Rick, also when I pulled mine to remove & drill the I/C horn, I was able to do so without having to remove the intake system. Some little tricks to it, so if you need to know just e-mail me or something.

 

The engine will be out when I remove it, so no need for any shortcuts. Still a long way off though.

 

I had to give the other side of the casting some taps with a hammer to get it to go. Definitely the trickiest part of the operation though (with the waterpump alignment at the same time)

 

Great! from the sounds of it I'm good. Thanks BlwnAway/ DG R53

 

Cool, yes that part & the w/p bolts are all designed so that there is a slight bit of movement for vibration so that the w/p itself doesn't break it's seal from the block.

 

Duffman 05 - I was getting read to tap it myself then decided to use heavy all purpose grease on the ring. Slid in with a little shove, but lining up the water pump took a little more shoving.

 

They weren't hard taps, but I couldn't get mine to go without tapping (no vasoline though). I didn't want anything else to possibly get in my air line though...just finished cleaning up the gear oil mess that my first Sprintex made. 3+ hours of cleaning gear oil out, and I only went up to the intake...I want to know that gear oil is the problem if something else pops up

 

Hello Guys,

I had some major engine failures but it has nothing to do with the Sprintex.

I had low compression on cylinder 1 and 2. Going to open the Engine this week to see what is it.

I believe is just the head gasket, nothing special... I hope...

But the Sprintex has already over 1000kms and everything seems smooth. Its gainning boost day by day!

Ill keep you posted once we found out whats wrong.

 

Well, I finally got the Sprintex installed and it seems to be running well. I had a bit of trouble bleeding the coolant system. It "seemed" that the polarity of the pump was reversed.
While pump was running I couldn't get the vent screw 1 to run a solid stream of fluid, nor vent #2 at the front top hose. Only when the pump was turned off a steady stream flowed from the vents. I think I have it figure out, but I'll be watching my temp gauge closely. Anyone else have this issue?

Oh! Please and me to the list.

 

No problems here, although I really didn't follow the instructions for that, just did "basic cooling system bleeding" by filling the radiator as much as possible by parting the hose at the bleed valve & filling from there, put it back together, filled the expansion tank, ran the W/P with the front bleeder screw out, untill I got fluid, replaced the screw, got the car to operating temp to open the thermostat, bled from the screw & topped the expansion tank to the proper level.
Never bled from the rear position at all.

Do like you said, carry some antifreeze with you, drive the car, watch the temp.
Figure about 3 or 4 cold starts & drives, while topping off the expansion tank & burping the bleeder right after start up & before you drive, should actually do it.

 

First day on the road. I put 200miles on him and he ran fine from mile 1 to mile 145.
At that point I got a P0171 code, which told me bank 1 was running lean. This was at a cruising speed. I kept it under 4k rpms as well. Maybe I shouldn't have , but I cleared the code and tried to get it to repeat. It may have just been the ecu adjusting. I could not get the P code to return. (Yet)
At this point I must say I don't really feel the power. (Not going over 4k might have something to do with that) I know it's more than stock, but it feels like the eBrake is on. No real pull until after 3.3k rpm. I know I have to wait for the SC break in, which I don't know how long that is.
Before changing the SC I had a tune, a 16% pulley, and sprint booster. I broke traction with relative ease. Now I have the FA Lite, 70mm pulley on Sprintex, THPR2 Head, THPR Cam, and ACG. That quick takeoff with the Sprint Booster isn't there, but I know that can be adjusted thru the FA Lite.
THIS IS NOT A COMPLIANT! IT IS JUST AN OBSERVATION!
I know if all was installed correctly that the SC will improve and the guys at Mynes/Bytetronik will get me going. I have yet to install a wide-band 02/AFR gauge sensor for data logging so there's still more for me to do.

 

Just to re-assure you, yes there will be some ECU adjustments since you haven't started tuning yet.
Figure about 1k or less on break in, as far as what you're feeling from seat-of-the-pants, a good portion of your low end difference may be the change in Heads, when I changed to a BVH it had the same effect, slight loss of very low end torque, but huge gains in top end power.

 

BlwnAway- Thanks for the reassurance it worked. I know I'm not quite finished yet, but wanted to post the issue for feedback such as yours so that I know I'm on the right track.

 

N.P. just remember, you changed "alot" all at once, there will be a learning curve for you too.

 

Yea, No doubt!

 

Last night after putting a few more miles on the SC I looked around, in, and under the bonnet for any leaks. Thankfully I found none. While the engine was apart I replaced the coolant and power steering hoses. Before doing so I had coolant, PS fluid, and oil drops on the garage floor. (2-3 drops a day)
There are no P-codes nor strange noises. I drove it closer to my normal style today, but made sure I didn't rev above 5k. I know I can't go WOT for awhile, but today I felt better about driving it. I have to say, around 4k is pretty fun. I can feel the car wanting to pull. There was a point where I passed a few cars easily with less effort than before on familiar road at usual speeds. I can't wait to get the 02/AFR set up and start logging so I can get tuning updates going. I know now that I'm going to really enjoy my R53 with GP2+ power.

 

Well, may have done a Bonehead move today. I had a chance for free maintenance and took it while I could. I installed the 64mm pulley on the sprintex. I know I have to take it easy since I only have the base tune for the 70mm.
The car has been running great though I've been staying under 4k. Though I hit 6k once at a weak moment against a friggin civic. I think I got a Lean P-code after that. That's the only P-code I've had. The car feels smoother for some reason. I'm not a mechanic so i'm not sure why. Oh hell, I guess I need to retune for the extra airflow. I guess it will run a bit leaner now. Ok, bring on the scolding comments

 

I think you need to get the code number to be sure.

 

I had the P-code and cleared it. Never got it again, but with the intro of more air I have to be careful.