If your theory/test are validated, put me down for whatever mod you come up with. I can't be too costly. lol

 

I was #1 to have a privately owned production kit up and running (think I even offered to sell you mine on the other board), and all I would like to do with mine is disassemble it with high explosives!
Look at the Jeep forums, same S/C and a lot of people running a 72mm throttlebody (off the Viper/Dakota/Durango its a direct fit and near perfect match to the intake manifold on the Chrysler 3.8 V6) all of them still have severe heat issues even with custom fabricated I/C setups... Those kits are even way under driven to provide 6-8psi of boost... Sprintex has left them in the dark, just like they have MINIs, they say the kits are 100% up to any task, and reliable... Look at the list in post #1, that is evidently not the case. No matter what you add to something that produces that much extra heat it isn't going to do enough good to justify it over the stock M45.

My offer on the other site stands, if you want to experiment with getting the Sprintex to work properly, the almost $1000 off of a new kit would be a decent start on rebuilding your engine when it gives up.

 

Actually the Jeep guys are doing quite well it seems and in following the many pages over the years on several of their forums I seen a few of your posts bashing Sprintex. I noticed that replacements where given with no worries and guys where happy. It appears that bad tunes seem to add to some of the heat issues you speak of concerning the Mini.

Oh, and it appears as though the guys that ran bigger tb, gained power over stock. I do believe I mentioned it before, but 57mm tb is allowing a good compressor to work much too hard spinning at 15k. I would assume the guy who designed this prototype for you wanted to make more power then stock and instead of freeing up ponies by way of inlet design, he instead spinned it to 15k. The Brz/Frs guys are spinning the compressor up to 19k, however they run a 70mm inlet. Mini Sprintex guys still have a lot to work with and hopefully you guys can get started bringing up the VE of the compressor.

And please guys run and ensure that your filters are not sucking engine bay temps. There is also nothing wrong with using what's in this link below after you have ensured your filter is not sucking in hot engine bay temps.
http://tinkerfreaks.wordpress.com/20...-supercharger/

Ron

 

Step aside was meant only to weed out those that don't have a Sprintex. I want to help where I can, to get improvements and perform like twinscrew compressors are capable of. I see and feel the frustration you guys carry. I'm here to help spread some twinscrew knowledge all based on experience, not guess work or maybes.

Most times it's really hard to understand the aspects of a restricted inlet. So I like to use the turbo analogy most understand. On a twinscrew compressor the inlet is like a down pipe on a turbo. Most people as standard run 2.5 or 3 inch down pipes for performance. What type of performance do you get when you run a 1.5 inch down pipe? Loss of boost and performance. You guys are running 1.5 inch down pipes on your Sprintex. You need to go three inch to open things up and not let it work so hard. The factory inlet at 57mm spinning the compressor 15k+rpms is going to heat soak the compressor. Running air filters that mix with engine air is going to run your compressor too hot. Higher outlet temps equals higher oil temps equals people continuing to run this compressor incorrectly.

Sure your mad from your experiences and rightfully so, but I would like actual owners to look into the solutions I suggest and let's have a reasonable conversation about them. I have no quarrels and wish not to form any.

Finally, my name is Ron and I have checked my facts. The Brz/Frs platform is doing well especially coupled with the delicious toon. Spinning the compressor at 19k rpms with 69mm pulley no heat issues like you have described. Why is that? Little to no inlet restriction..... A quick search on the latest news shows those guys over spinning the compressor and making power, waiting for the larger 1.46L. Let's improve upon the Mini Sprintex design and free up some ponies.

Guys, I really appreciate the bandwidth..



Ron

 

Well Jay, Rick, Gary, Mike, whatever your name is, you must not have a MINI, or spent much time under the hood of an R53...
I say that because the stock 57mm T-body is actually bigger than the diameter of the intake tube... Even Sprintex's crappy excuse of an aluminum one! I opened mine up a little bit, and ran a 63mm T-body at the same time... Still had inlet temps over 200+ degrees without meth!
You keep preaching that you cant have engine bay air anywhere around the air filter... Also NOT an option on a MINI, well unless you (1) cut a hole in the hood and run a snorkel, or (2) cut a hole through the firewall if you can get past all the stupid things you don't need like the steering shaft, wiper motor/linkage, wiring harness, the aluminum contraption the dash is built around, or anything else in that area that serves no purpose. Even rerouting the intake to the front bumper or fender well is out because we don't have fender wells, and there is about an inch of usable space behind the bumper... Having the intake under the hood is the only place for it! You could cut a hole in the hood's sheetmetal and have a duct dropping fresh air into an airbox that is sealed off and insulated as much as possible... Oh wait, I did that... No change!

There is a reason you where able to "dig up years of bashing the Sprintex" by me... Thats because in EVERY application they have been used on HAS FAILED! Before the Sprintex kit was released for the Jeep JK market, I saw a post in their forum (because I have a 2010 JKU) and I jumped in and tried to warn the people interested in the kit about the problems we (MINI's) where having with the S/C and quality control (if Sprintex even believes in QC they coulda fooled me)... As usual they didnt listen to the new guy who actually had experience with the S/C and people went into a buying frenzy when they hit the shelves. Long story short, ALL of them over the next year had experienced pretty much ALL of the problems I said they where going to have! Everything from not being able to tune the ECU properly (love the way you called it "Toon" because thats all they where able to do, is play with it until they popped another motor) to the excessive heat issues, and failures of the S/C's themselves. Funny thing is this guy "Jon" at RPM Extreme still kept pushing how great it really was as the failures in that market quickly piled up! A couple guys had their own intercooler kits made (Sprintex said one wasn't needed so they didn't make one) and that helped well... NOTHING! People began to move their temp sensors to read post S/C as I told them to do, and they began to see the real TRUTH... They weren't seeing the +4 or 5 degrees that Sprintex said is all it produced anymore. Turns out they where adding a couple HUNDRED degrees! Even over a hundred with a custom W2A I/C!
Sprintex caught on, and actually developed an intercooler kit they where going to sell separately at a substantial amount more money out of pocket... They NEVER put that piece into production though! They never even bothered (Thankfully) developing a S/C kit they promised for the 3.6L Pentistar V6 found in the 2012+ Jeeps!

You cant fix a horribly developed S/C from a company which has NO QUALITY CONTROL, or desire to make anything that actually works as promised! They just sit back and watch the $$$ come in from the uninformed that actually buy the kits, with no regard to the truth or the failures their products have and cause. Sure their excuse of a S/C grenades itself under warranty, and they might send you another... But it is bound to live a short life AGAIN, due to the company's production standards!

Have FUN trying to polish a turd into a diamond... It's NEVER going to happen, even if you throw thousands more dollars at it from your own pocket. When you start with Diarrhea, dont expect much more than a dried up crusty lump of crap in the end.

Now you can break down and dicect my post, as you have been doing the ENTIRE time you have been on this board. Funny thing is, Jay from MYNES does the exact same thing, the exact same way, with the exact same verbiage... I dont think that you are his new alias though, for the simple fact that you seem to know absolutely NOTHING that is achievable within the MINI's packaging constraints.

 

That's fair and valid with regard to my knowledge of the mini.

However it's troubling to know the inlet is smaller then the tb. There is no way around a redesign for better compressor efficiency. What compounds the problem however, and is something anyone can fix on their own and that's the air filter. If you idle your car and your AIT's do not reflect ambient, then your filter is exposed to engine bay temps. This can be worse then using an undersized inlet. You mentioned many ways to establish the filter to ambient only conditions and I appreciate your contribution to the Sprintex Mini owners. Sprintex owners should look to your examples to remove their filter from engine bay heat immediately.

Also, if you read the link I posted a few posts ago, the guy was able to drop his outlet temps by as much as 50 degrees on his Sprintex by using a very inexpensive thermo wrap. Since the Mini kit and all kits on the market do not use any shielding for hot areas to avoid additional compressor heat, this thermo wrap is Unbeilievable. He also mentions good examples where he would use the thermo wrap on the Mini. It's also only 4 months old so you probably never seen it. Heck, here is the link below.

http://tinkerfreaks.wordpress.com/20...-supercharger/

Ok, so ensure zero engine bay heat to filter, and use thermo wrap on the inlet and outlet manifold at minimum along with other key hot spots. Fixes all Mini Sprintex owners can do on there own to see REAL gains. Remember, 1% power gained per 10f drop in charge temps!

Ron

 

Two things immediately stand out about this picture.

The first is the amount of space you guys have for a Massive inlet. I mean Wow! You could run my Sprintex inlet on this setup easily. Heck, why settle for my inlet.. There's room for a 90mm in there..

Second, please correct me if I'm wrong but does the radiator blow hot air onto the compressor and inlet?


Ron

 

That pic does not show the water pump or its plumbing in place... The radiator is removed, and the rad shroud is only a couple inches off the side of the blower... There is no extra space.

I could go out to the garage, take some pics of under my hood (everything but the air box is still on the car even though it has been a paperweight for 3 years), but everybody in this thread already knows what it looks like in there.

 

Water pump right there in black. Inlet redesign seems so simple. I could even shorten mine and place the bypass valve upstream. Maybe even use intercooled air to further cool off temps off idle and cruise. Here is what one of our inlets looks like. Shortened with no bypass valve and run a pipe off it with accessories. This inlet is identical to our Sprintex inlets that We have recently retooled for. There's gotta be an additional 35rwhp with this mod easily.

 

Your pic links are broken...

And you are still looking at disassembled install pictures of the kit...

Here is how much "room" you have to play with...

They dont call them MINI's because of the abundance of space under the hood!

 

Yes it is quite tight indeed. However the inlet appears to sit below the tubing in picture one. Still seems like ample room. That is unless the inlet sits on top of a non removable part.

Thank you for your insight
Ron

 

On the original pre production prototypes, I would have to check with the guy originally commissioned to test and develop the S/C as a viable replacement, but pretty sure he relocated the water pump down around the bottom and used a straight piece of 3" tube...

That testing ended badly, and the development was halted due to the severe build up of heat, causing inconsistent power levels, and the inability of the ECU to adapt to the continuously changing running conditions. The first run on the dyno would make good numbers, then they would fall off like a rock on subsequent runs. From what he told me, they pulled almost 300 HP the first night, then later watched the numbers fall back to stock or below stock levels without doing anything but making dyno runs.

The heat problem is in the S/C itself... Every one of them in every market they are available in all has the same heat issue.

 

I hear you about this heat issue. Makes good power and then gets heat soaked and hot. However there are many out there in the Mini world, Jeep world, and Brz/Frs community over spinning them, and are having zero issues. Then there are independent guys that make their own kits like BahnBrenner Brenner who has been using the twinscrew for years has not had one failure to date and has never made more power then me with the .87L and now with the Sprintex he's beating my numbers.

So from the outside looking in and knowing that inlet design for the twinscrew compressor is EVERYTHING, you Sprintex owners have a lot of room for improvement. I hope there is at least one Sprintex owner out there that will at bare minimum fully thermo wrap their inlet and outlet manifold as well as on the compressor where extreme hotspots are. Use an infra red to test temps in various areas and apply wrap in logical areas. And I hope at least one Mini owner ensures zero engine bay heat to mix with your air filter.

Did you say 200 degrees pre compressor while sealing your air filter from engine bay heat? Have you blown your compressor?

Thank you,
Ron

 

Post I/C without the water/meth would give me 200+ on the Davtron (aviation grade dual channel temp gauge) after a good 20 minute drive.

 

That is so unacceptable. I can't imagine everyone else getting these kind of temps making the power they make. Curious to know when things went south for you as in the beginning of this thread you mentioned good power with lower temps then the stock compressor. I'm not trying to be a smart ****, I'm just trying to figure out the ins and outs of this design on the Mini platform.


Ron

 

Hi,
Does the EWP that comes with the Sprintex still use the thermostat? I was wondering if it might use a restrict or plate in place of the thermostat.
Cheers

 

Yes it uses the thermostat, everything there stays stock.

 

I suggest all of you, and I mean all. even those that only drove 5k miles... to Check your Oil! Amazing surprise you will get!

 

…Im scared…soooo scared

 

You must be referring to the faulty oil seals that Sprintex thought would be best in their POS... Its a known problem, not just with MINI Sprintex kits either. Potentially anything that uses a Sprintex S5-210 S/C will have the seals fail!

 

Hi, I am one of the guys that setup a Sprintex on my 2005 MCS back in 2012 on my daily driver. I haven't been on this thread in over a year but am wondering what has happened? I have spent the last hour reading back over some of the posts and have had struggled with my Mini and S/C as many of the posts describe. I am on my 3rd replacement unit now that has approx. 3 months and 2000 miles on it. Wondering who is still running one of these and would like to chat. Also wondering if the final verdict has been reached concerning this and it is dead.

Jim.. 2005 MCS Sprintex w/60mm pulley. Mynes header,Alta exhaust, 550cc injectors,Mynes tune,Craven CAI, GP I/C, DDM Diverter,Detroit tuned BPV,BSH Catch can, Many suspension Mods. Dynoed at 286HP/246TQ at wheels.

 

Last time I looked this thread had disappeared, as far as the units and owners, I don't really know, there weren't that many of us here in NAM to begin with, and with my car being down for the last year and a half I sort of lost track.
If all goes well I'll be pulling my motor and starting my rebuild in the next couple of weeks and I'm still planning on using the unit that Sprintex sent me to replace my original one, it is supposed to be the updated unit with the corrected oil seal. (I'm guessing that's the one you currently have also) Until I'm up and running again I can't really comment on anything new, but when I do, I will. I am however going to go with the aftermarket tensioner that was developed for the unit, I never had issues with mine, but figure it would be worth the extra since I'm going to be working with a rather expensive, fresh, motor.
I'll be sticking with the 60mm pulley, but will also be adding an Aquamist system too.

Once everything is back up and running I'll let everyone know of any problems.

 

Running Sprintex from 2013, add some oil last summer. Don't know level of oil just add a little (it's impossible to mesure level without drain)

 

It's so simple to do, a good rule of thumb is to just change the SC oil every time you change your engine oil, every 5k for me.

 

Here in Portugal we have 4 Units, and we are not very happy campers.

We have sent 2 units to Sprintex Australia, because of the sealings and the Solution that they are giving us is to put a dip stick... i dont find this a good solution. its not really fixing the issue... all ours are supose to be the updated units, with the new sealings and still major issues.

Mine does 300kms and i have no oil inside.

Anyone found a solution for fixing this issue?