Don't know about the Valeo, I was actually still running OEM, but about the belt slippage, yes some times it was really hard to tell, mine wouldn't make any sound at all (squeal) but you could see it in the boost (usually just in the upper rpm, and not every time, lower gears with faster spool esp.), that was really the only way I could tell that something wasn't right.

 

So a belt change was all you did to solve the problem? Or, did you use a BMW 7 series tensioner?

 

My problem was just belt, I'd already changed the tensioner piston from an earlier pulley swap when I popped it from letting it expand too rapidly.

 

I swapped my belt out (after the engine threw the old/new one) Feels way better. I think the original belt i got, was on the "long" side. I think it's your tire's letting go ") mine don't squeal either..

IMHO even though folks say the Valeo can handle up to 250 (which could be true)but It's still a replacement for the stock clutch…. Now, i know for sure my stock clutch just could not handle the power from the Sprintex alone, never-mind the (After Sprintex) upgrades I've done. Which happen to be very similar to yours. So….

My guy Steve laughed when the Valeo turned up at his shop (I bought one to put on my mini) he said it would work, but not for very long.. All depends on how you drive your car.. If your anything like me, well.....
I put a Spec stage two kevlar W/11 Pound swappable flywheel in mine, dam!! that thing connects! noisy as hell! but it works… Even so, there has been a little debate over the quality of the Spec against the Gieken… Folks accused me of skimping on the clutch!!
I dunno 1k v's 2k ?

 

I found out today that my Valeo isn't as tough as I thought. I was just goofing around revving the engine while doing about 20~30mph. I let the clutch go and punched it. Wow, the smell of burning clutch was everywhere. Needless to say I didn't do that again.
Now searching for a better clutch plate or a whole new clutch assay.
I really do not want a noisy/clattering clutch. Preferably something quiet that connects. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

From what i gather, the noise comes from "light flywheel" not the clutch..
The OS Gieken flywheel is noisy also (They actually mention it on various sites as a kind of disclaimer)

You could try an ACT Clutch. They're a step up from The Valeo.. and don't break the bank… I think you may be able to use your flywheel, if you can get it resurfaced… some folks say you can't do it.. But i had the flywheel on my 2008 S resurfaced and it works like a dream (An OEM Clutch is in the S) It's only 168Hp

 

Resurfaced? Ok I'm out of my realm, why would I need to resurface? Can't I just install a new/better disc? Are you saying that I have ruined the contact surface on the fly wheel? I'm not experienced with what happens when you burn a clutch so please forgive my lack of knowledge. I just know when one is worn, that awful smell when you've cooked it, and that friction or the lack thereof is involved.

 

Think in terms of what your brake rotors look like.. well its kinda like that, although not as bad. When the clutch plate slips, not only does it burn/heat up/warp the flywheel, the flywheel gets polished smooth, It needs to be slightly abrasive, then any imperfections on the surface of the flywheel will get passed on to the new clutch plate, shortening it's life.

 

Copy that.
Just returned from the shop. They tell me I'm fine just don't make it a practice of abusing the clutch. I still want to install a pressure plate with more clamping power. (ACT HD Street)

 

I asked about that, Your Valeo flywheel is perfect for what you wanna do..

 

Thats good to hear, but I'd feel more assured if someone who has done it could chime in. (Valeo Single Mass and performance clutch plate/disc)

 

That Valeo isn't really an "upgrade", other than dropping a few pounds of rotating mass. I have it, and it works great for me, but I'd assume that on a modified Sprintex driven very aggressively, you'd get some slippage.

 

^^ Ditto ^^

 

It's quiet though, and if Minian get's it resurfaced with a stronger plate.. in theory it should work..

This is worth a read..

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-flywheel.html

 

Got it thanks for the info. With Valeo being a direct replacement FW and an OEM
Supplier I'm pretty sure a performance clutch made to fit the OEM FW will work.
I want to stick with the Valeo because it's quiet, slightly lighter, but still has a good amount of rotation weight, which I believe helps with smoothness.

 

I think, since your up in the 230's at least, you might wanna ask a mechanic, maybe someone from mynes?.. About what you should do. You don't wanna spend the money twice. Gary at sprintex is worth a call. "Second opinions" and all that good stuff.. I bought the "Spec" clutch cause my Mini guy "Steve" did 250k with his.. i grew up driving clutch (British) so, i expect at least half that..Dam!! 30k would be good!!

 

Sure, it's a step in the right direction. Though, clamping pressure and flywheel surface preparedness aren't the only factors that need considering. They're certainly very important, but clutch disc material is important, too. At some point, organic friction compounds just "give up the ghost".

 

Yep!! Kevlar is on the Spec.

 

2K On the Sprintex.

 

Back to the Valeo Clutch slipping with Sprintex- I found out that it is only rated for 200hp. That explains a lot in my case. I'll let it wear then upgrade.

 

About clutch.

Have slippage with Exedy Solid FW conversion kit.
Now going to install ACT ceramic 6 pad clutch disc into Exedy kit.

 

Going off topic slightly, everything I've read about the Sprintex encourages me to get one and the EWP is an added bonus. I have a beefed up clutch etc so that shouldn't be a problem but, how do you do oil changes on it? Is it as painful as the M45?
Cheers

 

There is a fill port on top and drain port on bottom pretty easy to get too

 

Ditto, oil changes are a breeze, about 15 to 20 min. Process, only issue is the drain, easy to get to but you'll need to come up with some sort of catch for the oil, I actually made one out of the bottom of an old antifreeze jug that fits right into the area under the plug, and a food basting syringe works pretty well for a fill tool, gives you your measurements and an accurate device to fill with.
Also on a side note, to insure you get as much of your old oil out, once it has stopped flowing, you can take a straw and blow into the fill port to push out some of the last of it, I know seems sort of cheesy but it's much faster than just waiting for the remnants to drain on their own, and help to give you a more accurate "actual" level, since over filling is a no-no.

 

Thanks for the replies. I sounds as though Sprintex has fixed all of the shortfalls of the M45. I was going to fit a re-built M45 with an oil recharge kit but I think the Sprintex has won out.
Cheers