I am reading the boost with a boost gauge. It was reading 15psi max with the Eaton and now I am getting approx. 12 lbs max. I have about 3 hours normal drive time on the Sprintex since installed last week. I was told the S/C will "seal" in time.
How can I read the boost at the OBDII port ?

 

There are a few ways to read from the OBD Port:

1. Handheld scan tool
2. ELM327 OBD2 tool device (via Bluetooth connected to your smart phone via an app).
3. ScanGauge type display

We use the OBD Port as a conduit and go directly to the BMW code layer and extract the info using FA Logging. Below is a log file (converted from the native .csv to "xls" format) from a 69mm Sprintex (column "AO" shows PSI). The 69mm pulley indicates 15-16 psi, and on the 64mm, you should be getting ~17/18 psi... so there's definitely a "leak" of some sort on your setup.

 

I guess the Sprintex does have a breaking in type of situation, I am getting 14 -15psi boost now with the 64mm pulley. It jumps up to 10psi (by 2500rpm) super quick then almost like a waste gate is open, slows almost to a stop then climbs the additional 4-5psi slowly to redline. Would love to have it jump all the way to 14psi fast like with the Stock Eaton I was running with a 15% reduced pulley. I have a Detroit tuned BPV installed.My setup before the Sprintex acted this way until the stock BPV was replaced with the DT/bpv. With the stock BPV and the Eaton, boost climbed quick to 10psi then very slowly increased to max. After the DT/BPV the boost would climb fast all the way to 14psi. I am wondering if the BPV is being overwhelmed somehow because of additional cfm of the Sprintex. Any thoughts? Hope what I have described makes sense.
Regardless, The car feels like it has alot more power, the dyno will tell in a few weeks. I am quessing 220-230whp up from 205whp pre Sprintex.

 

Did you do the VGS mod needed for that pulley? At least you'll know you're closing the valve as early & as complete as possible.
The DT/BPV is also best simply because Chad goes through all of the valves and makes sure the butterfly alignment is correct.

 

Bypass Valve fix for 64mm and 60mm (see attached). Also change out the stock vacuum line to silicon lines (zip ties at the ends) is highly recommended.

 

+1 a tight fit on those vac. lines is important, esp. with the boost created by either of those pulleys. That line controls your fuel pressure, a leak or line coming off will cause your fuel pressure to drop & could / will create a lean condition under high fuel demand.

As far as mine goes, everythings great, I'm really enjoying the 60mm pulley, esp. with the cooler weather. But my Nitrous install is taking a while to do the way I want, so I probably won't get to a dyno to get pulley compairison results for at least a month

 

I am a little confused, Isn't my car already setup in this way ? Any elaboration on how the car is stock versus the modification you are describing.
I had enough road today to take the car above 6000 rpm in 5th and I was seeing 16-17 lbs of boost and was still slowly climbing when I had to let off nearing 100 mph. One of the things mentioned in my previous post was the fact that my car used to jump to 12 to 14psi at a lower rpm. Seems it would do this even more with the sprintex and a 64mm pulley, it jumps immediately to 10psi then very slowly climbs. Anyone wanting to give me a quick call to explain some of the mentioned "Needed" MODS would be appeciated.
Jim
812-572-2504

 

Call made.

 

Hi Did the BPV modification last night. I blocked the vacuum port on the BPV and "T"ed the vacuum/boost line from the BPV into the boost gauge line. It didn't change much but the boost gauge doesn't flutter like it was but the way it builds boost is the same. My goal would be to build 14-16psi of boost quickly and below 5000rpm. This is where most of my driving around town takes place. I want as much low end power as possible without having to ring the motor out to 6800 plus RPM. I am thinking of carefully trying the 60mm pulley to see if it moves the initial jump and plateau in boost from 10psi to something higher. I will let you know what I find. Any and all input is appreciated.
Is there something in the design of the Sprintex that has it make 10psi boost easy then need to double the rpm to get another 5psi ? Is there a diminishing return principle taking place? What I am comparing to is the way the Eaton S/C (15% pulley) would build 12-14 psi in a flash in the same manner the new Sprintex will do only 10psi. With the Eaton the boost was 95% all in by 4500 rpm and the Sprintex with the 64mm pulley is making only 70% of max by 4500rpm . The other factor that is unknown by me is the comparision of the Eaton with a 15% reduced pulley to the Sprintex, what size pulley would be considered stock ? if it is the 69mm then a 15% reduction would be approx. 59mm pulley. That is some of the reason why I am thinking the 60mm pulley is the key to give me an fair comparision of the two. If you haven't figured this out yet, my goal is to be able to goose the throttle at 2500rpm and build 14-16 psi boost in one snap. All out top end power isn't my goal, more power in the lower rpms is what I want. I already have a VW beetle with a 400hp V8 so no need to tell me to put a V8 in the MINI... LOL...

 

Give me a few hours to get home, I'll post up a comparison of boost levels @ rpm for both pulleys so that you have something to compare with what you're seeing.

 

Once the charger is broken in with some more miles, take it back to your tuner and get it re-mapped... that will make a world of difference.

BTW, do u have an AFR meter on your MINI? H

 

OK here's what I got as far as boost with the two different pulleys:
(top graph RPM, bottom Boost)

64mm (peak 16.9)


60mm (peak 19.6)


of course yours may not be the same but this will give you some idea.
Also, my boost with the 64mm pulley is actually a little lower than normal (should be mid 17's), after the 60mm pulley swap I found out I had mistakenly been using the wrong tensioner piston, so I may have been getting just a slight amount of slip.

 

Thanks for the graphs. This is nearly identical to what I am seeing so with the 64mm pulley. The boost jumps up then slowly increases. I think I will like the 60mm pulley because of the 2 psi increase in the initial boost . Have you been able to switch the pulley without placing car in maint. mode ? Thanks again for all the input.

 

Pulley swaps are a breeze, only takes an hour or so, you only have to pull the pass. inner fenderwell to remove the belt, just be very careful releasing the tensioner with the belt off, if it springs open too hard you'll be buying a new tensioner piston.

PM if you have any more questions about the swap when the time comes around.

 

Hi all,
yesterday afternoon my electric water pump blew the 10a fuse that is in line on the red constant 12v. I checked everything replaced fuse and the pump started and ran fine. I am thinking a wire is rubbing or pinced somewhere. It blew several more times last night but only when driving. I can't get it to blow by either having the car idle or sitting with the key on. it blows only when car is moving. I traced all wires I could without tearing the car down. I didn't see anything that looked bad. I re-routed some of the harness and the fuse hasn't blown again and I have driven it about 45 minutes. This is very worrisome because I don't trust the car won't break down . Any thoughts or similar experience. If you remember I have already had one leaking pump new out of the box. I can see why the mini isn't designed with an electric water pump from the factory.

 

From what you've described, sounds more like a ground issue more than a short, check the relay ground, I would get a length of wire & run it from your grounding point for your relay, all the way accross the engine to the main grounding point on the motor mount bracket, just to see if it cures the problem, if so then you can work on using a better perminent grounding point for the relay.

 

Wow, I didn't know a bad ground would cause a fuse to blow,I thought it would just stop the motor ,but I guess it can cause the motor to draw more amps tring to overcome the bad ground ?? It worked fine for two weeks, I will change the ground point to the engine ground on passenger side. I hope that is the problem, but I have a feeling it is not. Also wonder why it only blows while car is in motion ??

 

Just, do it temp. at first to save yourself some trouble if thats not it, could be that the vibration from the movement or slightly extra juice from the alt. running a little faster is just enough to do it, basicly maybe showing that a connection has loosened up some, also try a 15a fuse instead (just as a testing tool) to see what happens, and feel for extra warm wires.

Electrical faults can really suck, but yes, as far as the grounding itself, electricity is current, just like water, if it bottlenecks it has to go somewhere, and in most instances it backs up.

There is such a thing as too much power, but never too much ground! It always has to be even too or greater than the supplied current.

 

I had 30a fuses in it yesterday and they blew as well. I have a 10a in it now and drove it 20 minutes to work this morning and is holding. I want to find a definitive answer to why this was/is blowing fuses. Until I do it will an unreliable vehicle to drive.

 

To update my Sprintex experience. Last issue with water pump seems to be resolved. I took Intercooler off to gain access to the water pump without having to go full Maint. mode. I re-ran the wire harness ,it could have been pinched but I never saw a clear cut cause for the blown fuses. I also did as recommended and ran a better ground. I have driven about 500 miles on the car since without any trouble. It is a little un-nerving to worry if you are going to lose the water pump and over heat. Just now getting confidence back.
I also switched to the 60mm pulley, it is perfect and is doing exactly what I wanted. The boost now jumps straight to 14psi and then slowly climbs. Haven't done any full to redline pulls and won't until I can be hooked to a A/F meter and have the ecu tuned. I also raised my coil overs up this weekend in anticipation of snow. My front spoiler was about .5"-.750" off the ground. I would have been a snow plow at that setting . Raised thr car a full 2.5" for the winter. I was a little too low after the added weight of the sprintex anyway. The sprintex is a fair bit heavier than the stock eaton and water pump . Having fun for now.

2005 chili red MCS. Craven CAI,Sprintex w/60mm pulley.JCW380cc injectors,DT/BPV w/mod. MSD coil,colder plus,Ata cat back,Megan short shifter with helix bottom(double short),M-7 strut brace,K-sport coilovers,ALta lower control arms,H-sport25mm rear sway bar,GP I/C DDM diverter,BSH catch can,M-7 Aerogel Heatshield, Auto logic ecu tune. 205 whp 187tq, before Sprintex est.230-240whp currently. wil post dyno nunbers soon.

 

Along the same lines, the PLX KIWI and the Torque app works great

I have the bluetooth version for android.

 

subscribe.

 

Update,
All is well, car is running great,water pump working as it should, tons of boost on tap with 60mm pulley. Not taking car to limits until I get the 550cc injectors and the ECU re-tuned. The 60mm pulley is giving me 16psi easy below 5000rpm with tons of power. I am very happy with the Sprintex upgrade and look forward to seeing what the car will do. I am glad I switched to the 60mm pulley. I like building boost quickly. I will be running some dyno pulls once the Ecu is upgraded and the injectors changed.

 

Though this is not a direct Sprintex question, it does relate to the system, so I figured I'd ask it here anyway. Apologies in advance if this does not fit the thread guidelines.

As I mentioned before, I have a Sprintex kit sitting on my floor that will eventually be installed (hopefully before I push the car off a bridge). I had done research in the past on larger throttle body sizes, and the consensus opinion that I seemed to come across is that increasing the side of the throttle body would not have a significant effect because the bottleneck was actually the inlet tube that goes from the throttle body to the supercharger. As everyone in this thread knows, the Sprintex kit comes with a new inlet tube, replacing the stock odd-shaped one. Seeing this has brought back my original interest in a larger throttle body. That interest was further peaked when I caught a comment from our very own BlwnAway stating that he suspected his higher-than-expected boost levels may be due to his larger throttle body.

So I pose the question to the fellow Sprintex owners: Would a larger throttle body mated with the Sprintex kit have an increased effect on performance?

Discuss.