It's good that Sprintex is in the right hands and the competent owners allowing it to shine. I will be next, for the price nobody can beat it.

 

On a personal note, my only regret is that because of all the controversy that was created, all of my NON Sprintex related issues got worked into the mix and muddied things up.

Bottom line, as far as I'm concerened, I love the difference in the way the car runs, wheather the #'s are up or not, simply because of the difference in "where" the power is and how much fun the car is to drive. Esp. since I was going to have to do an S/C no matter what.

As I said earlier I still don't have the tuning right yet, but even so, and even with the 70mm pulley, I litterally have no traction in 1st gear if the car is at WOT anywhere above 20mph, and a "Butt Load" of spin on hard shifts into second, even with the factory LSD. Lets just say I've left more than a few other drivers "open jawed" and scratching their heads. If thats what your interested in of course.

 

It's all because of the increased low and midrange torque

I love just that

A guy in our club has 229 whp, mine had a little less due to a little problem. Might be the BPV or something small but had 215 instead of the 245 whp and he said it was a HUGE difference in how quick the car was feeling. He's on for a Sprintex as well now, haha. The power curve had a strange dip in the end where it would normally push further when it was tuned at 1320. It's not a big thing, as I will be going back to them somewhere early next year for a 60 pulley, CatCam, new tune, ARP rodbolts and meth-install to push this thing even further

 

For those of you who aren't following my progress on my build thread on M/U here's where I am now, I'm using Virtual Dyno to help track my progress with my tuning, from what I've learned about the program it's fairly accurate but at the very least it's consistant, and has been very usefull in helping to chart my progress. (This is another great tool that I'm able to utalize because of the Bytronik F/A)

For those of you unfamiliar with it I'm going to try to answer some questions upfront:
1. The information regarding tire size, gear, and weight are essential and do make a difference.
2. The settings for dyno type, do make a difference, as you will see. (V/D has 3 different settings, Mustang, Their Own and Dynojet. Their own is basiclly uncorrected and the others have built in correction factors that make the results as close to real world as possible.)

For my purposes here's what and why I'm using the setting that I am:
Car - '05 MCSC
Weight - 3150 (2850 for the car ('05 MCSC) and 300 for me and my contents.
Tire Size - adjusted for 215/45/17's
Gear - 3rd, simply because I'm doing this on the street and the difference between 3rd & 4th is
95 or 115 (the program does factor in the difference)
Road - I've found a fairly level & straight stretch of road that is as safe as I can be, but at the
very least, I'm using the same stretch everytime, for consistancy.

Here's where I'm at for now, as you will be able to see I still have a long way to go, also my boost has dropped slightly since my cam change, I did, at that time, undo my VGS mod, I don't know if it had anything to do with it or not, but there's going to be some decent weather the next few days, I may redo the VGS just to see what happens.

Here's with the Mustang settings:



And here's the same log file with the Dynojet settings:



As I said, I still have a ways to go, and as you can see, I have to get my AFR's up above 6500 or so before I can do anymore hard pulls, but it's looking very promising.

 

Nice numbers, virtual dynos are pretty accurate when done right. In the Subaru community we have used them a lot for self or remote tuning. For more accuracy go to a truck weighing station for actual weight with you in the car and a full tank of gas. When you reach the area of stretched road you're using top off gas again nearby. Use dynojet setting for a happy medium between mustang(mynes) and dynapack(rmw) dynos.

The numbers are not bad for ~15psi and top end AFR dip. The fact you loss psi is great because that cam you're using is efficiently pumping the air thru that head.. May I suggest Thumpers new cam gear to make more power?

Why is your car running rich out up top? Trying to be safe or ECU acting up? I wouldn't want to have rich knock.

 

The reason it's so rich up on top is because I'm so early in my adjustments that I'm basiclly still working with the fuel maps from when we were trying to deal with my inconsistant running condition.

My car still run's richer than most under normal driving conditions, and because of the way our ECU's work I end up with some pretty big jumps (leaner) once the adaptations set in. This is why it will take so long to make the adjustments, small steps, I don't want to make a big change, have AFR's in yhe mid 11's and have adaptations bump me into the 13's without being able to catch it in time.

And yes, considering, where I'm at with it that rich, and only using the 70mm pulley, I'm actually really happy.

Oh and yes, if I get to work early enough tonight, I'm going to go up and get an actual weight.

And the matching target #'s I got before of 232, was on a Dynopac.

 

What do your STFT and LTFT look like? Mids and lows. That will help you out with the ECU wanting to adapt. Get those +- of 5% and you will be in a lot better shape.

11.8 AFR is going to give you the most power, but be on the tip of knock, 11.5 will be better with the knock but down on a little power. 11.2 is going to be the safest and give you the fastest flame travel. Anything below that is getting into rich knock and lower power, it gets to the point that even with out knock the fuel cannot be ALL ignited by the spark. This leads to less power.

 

That mt goal, low 11's from 6750 & up, more worried about safety than 1 or 2 hp.

 

Well its more then 1 or 2 hp lol. 11.5 should be your goal the whole way. Try to get it as smooth as possible. I know you are still working on it just some tips.

 

Adressed a slight whistle issue that I was getting at low rpm and re-did my VGS mod to try and get some of my missing boost back (lost about .75 lbs or so lately) don't know what worked, but it did, boost is now about 15.7 lbs or so and the results are great. (I also tweaked my fuel map just a little, but the adjustment was very slight.)

Here's where I'm at after this W/E:





And here's a compairison:



The AFR's in the middle are just on the high side but the knock Volts & Noise are still well within normal levels so it doesn't worry me (besides there just barely on the high side), now to get that over 6800 issue worked out and I think I'll pretty much leave it alone.

This is all still only with the 70mm pulley. Needless to say I'm pretty happy.

 

You still need more fuel down low. Try to get that spike at 4K down into the 12's. I would also take just a hair out at 6500, target a 11.5 up there, and try not to dump so much fuel after 7K, an 11 is good there. Your TQ line looks great just has a slight dip around 4K where its running lean.

I would say you're just about there. Any chance of getting some timing logs? Your Ignition advance 1-4 in an overlaped log (use a different color for each CYL)with AIR MASS in GR/SEC and another thats just the KNOCK noise, with AIR MASS in GR/SEC?

(I use AIR MASS in GR/SEC to see an aproxamate RPM/BOOST, just to see where everything is happening durring the run.)

 

I'll try to get some log screen captures up tomorrow after work.

As far as the above 7000 I just haven't re-adjusted the map scale yet to accomodate the above 6800 rpm values, thats also the reason for the low AFR's there, I'm having to pull out a lot of fuel at the upper RPM's so when it hits the limit on the map it basiclly goes back to 0 vales. That's a project for tonight.

And thanks for the info, I'm still learning the tuning side, but as far as I can see it looks ok, I do want to send some log's out though. For now I'm just doing fuel map adjustments and watching both my knock levels, the timing adjustments will either come later or as immediately needed, but for just the little I've done I'm really happy and in my opinion the Sprintex is really making the most out of my other parts.

 

You should really scale both axis's.....its shouldn't be going to zero when it over runs the map it should just be stuck and the last rpm value. The problem is that its trying to interpret that for higher RPM's and you see how that is working. Not very well. Scaling should always be one of the first things that you should do while tuning. You can make scaling easy by removing two of the lower RPM RPM's and just moving the map up, and the same for the load/pressure, Just move it to the right.

I also find it weird that the run is starting with the boost at 10psi. It should start with it in vacuum. We should see it ramp up. If you are at 10psi with any type of timing, and the AFR like that with it WFO you are going to start to have some issues. I dont care what the knock sensor is telling you. Its running lean and giving you high EGT's its going to kill your pistons/rings/cylinders.

Try to at least get those start afr's down to a 12afr, and get rid of the 13.5afr spike. That way you know you will be able to keep your motor....

 

Yeah, that spike was the very first thing I addressed last night before leaving for work, and I also did a rescale, on the 2500 to 3750 range and of course 6000 & up. Should be able to check it again today after work. Oh & BTW, I do appreciate the input, as little as I do know, sometimes my biggest problem is remembering it all, since this is still fairly new.
Thanks.

Oh, and I'm not just sitting back and thinking all's ok & just standing on it everywhere I go, only for these pulls, there will be plenty of time to play when it's right.

 

So what is your highest RPM scale now? It should be 8K if reving to 7700+ish

Why is the boost starting at 10ish PSI? The program only plots 98% throttle and higher....so we should see a vacuum or at least zero. Not 10psi to start with.

Should look something like this....This is the first tune with the new turbo and trying to get the 3 port dialed in...so thats why the boost map looks funny.

 

That's the thing before last night, after that pull, I hadn't re-scaled my rpm points (they were still at 6800), I had every intention of doing it yesterday, but just wanted to get a quick pull after my mechanical work, and honestly I was so happy and suprised with the outcome I just had to post it, again probably pre-maturely, but that's a whole-nother issue

Since then I've re-scaled the maps and made adjustments over all of the areas of concern, I just haven't been able to check the results yet. To save confusion I may just wait till it's done before posting anymore graphs, I was just really happy with that #.

As far as the boost level I don't know, I'll have to go back & look at some of the earlier ones as well as my actual log files with the Bytronik Dataviewer instead of V/D, maybe it's just something in the recording peramiters of the file I'm using in the Datalogger, I'll have to record a full log file instead of the modified V/D one to check it.

 

Yeah, I got that you just rescaled them and that the VD runs were all before the scaling. I was just wondering what you scaled to. Just suggesting that it should be scaled to 8k.

Yeah look at some old logs, because the boost should not be at 10psi like that....

 

It does if you roll on the throttle really slow. You can be at 10 psi with 3/4 throttle and not trip the VD program to start the plot.

 

I was actuall thinking along the same lines, (I'm still going to check) but that's sort of my theory, it has more to do with where I'm doing my run and the amount of throttle I was having to use just to get started, the recording file for our datalogger that we use for V/D not only records just 2000 rpm and up, but it will not record anything less than 95% throttle.

 

Sprintex Kit Owner No 5 say Hello !

Standard jcw...Thread will follow !

 

There are a lot more than 5 of us in the world, just 5 on this forum that have/have had the Sprintex installed.

Looking foreward to some new stories.

 

Welcome & enjoy, any questions don't hesitate to post it up or PM!

 

I have a 2006 MCSa with the sprintex, schrick cam, 440 injectors, mynes header, GP IC, alta cai, and alta exhaust. All tuned by mynes and I can say that I completely love it. And could never go back to stock. Not a bad dyno for it being an MCSa. The video of the dyno pull is on the M7 website.

 

Welcome to the thread. I know you have some interesting experiances to share, from adapting it to be used with the auto trans. Write up a little pice?

 

Welcome to the club, I know you'll be happy with it and what Jay and the rest of the Mynes crew has done for you.