We have been getting emails in regards to customers with OEM BOV(AKA BPV, or CRV, we will call it BOV from here on) failures. If there are legitimate customers with BOV's ripping, failing, sticking, or causing CEL's, I want to know about it! We have been working on a couple of solutions for this and I want to get a better idea what and why this is happening. I want to hear all the horror stories! Post up your pics and stories here so we can all see if this is a widespread problem.

If you can make sure and post up your pics along with how it failed, and what modifications were done to the car, that would be great! Basically give us the most info you can so we can to help design a new part for this. Depending on the responses we get, I may be able to get Jeff to take some pics of the couple designs we are testing on! Also feel free to email me if you would rather do that. Chris.cone@altaperformance.com.

 

Back in the day when I had a style of BOV practically identical to yours my biggest gripe was the occasional P115D code. This came up as a MAF code but I think it had to do with data not correlating correctly with the MAP sensor, MAF sensor, and what the ECU wanted to see boost-wise in certain conditions. For example, if the BOV vented when the diverter valve wasn't commanded to be opened by the ECU, the P115D code would populate.

'09 R56 S
DDM Race Intake System
Alta boost tubes at the time
Helix Intercooler

That's all the other mods I have in the intake air stream.

It turns out this was about the OEM diverter valve so anyways...

 

Chris, you are asking about aftermarket BOV and not the stock diverter valve correct?

 

We're asking about the OEM BOV, not an aftermarket BOV, sorry about the confusion!

 

Cool, to minimize confusion I would refer to it as a Diverter Valve or a DV, not a Blow off valve or BOV. Since it diverts the air back into the system. Just a suggestion.

 

First post edited, thanks!

 

Every other person in the MINI universe says "blow off valve", so.... Haven't had probs with OEM, with/without ALTA spring. Didn't like incessant "flutter" noise from the Forge popping clutch under light to moderate turbo load.

 

Melangell, thanks for the feedback, that's consistent to what we're hearing about with the Forge BOV installed, and exactly what we're trying to get rid of with a new part.

 

My 2007 S gave me a CEL at 50,000 miles with no modifications at the time. I brought it in to the dealer and the said the OEM DV fell apart when they went to remove it. They replaced it and I installed an Alta BOV Spring. No problems yet.

 

Hi Chris--I've noticed CEL issues with rapid on an then off the throttle. Seems to mostly happen at very high boost levels (25+) and is very intermittent. Also I have the "stiffy" installed. No torn boot. I'm wondering if the plunger is getting stuck in the coil??

Ray

 

I went to the track on Saturday as the first time with my MINI. My MINI is a 2009 Cooper S with JCW Engine Tuning Kit, the OEM Hard Plastic Intake Tube from JCW Factory Car, J1 Automotive UK Intake Filter, ARC Turbo Heat Shield, and also the OEM Diverter Valve from the JCW Factory car. Everything were fine at the track, except I forgot to turn off the DSC in the first few laps. I even drove it for almost 300 miles after that running at the track. When I went out this morning, the car was fine and the diverter valve was still working as I could still hear the psssh while I downshift. But after parking it under the sun for a while, I got a CEL as I started the car, so I took it to my friend's shop down the street to scan the error code. My friend told me the error code relates to the diverter valve and I should take it back to the dealer since they were the ones who installed it. As I was driving home after, the car was driving very un-smoothly. It also feels like it loses boost between gear shift. I booked an appointment with the dealer for next Wednesday. So I won't have anymore details until then. In the meantime, is it still okay for me to drive my car? Any pre-caution I should take? Please advise. Thanks!

 

Ray, what's the CEL that you're getting? If the plunger got stuck, it would cause a big vacuum leak.


What's the CEL that you got? It should be fine to drive unless it's giving you major drivability issues.

 

Chris-- I got code 28AA. Divert air solenoid valve plausibility.


Ray

 

Chris @ Alta, I don't quite know what you might have in mind for a D/V upgrade but I will share a little I have recently discovered.
I replaced my stock D/V, absolutely having no problems, with the VAG 710D, which would give yellow engine lights during certain shifting conditions + trouble codes to boot, also it leaked, but it would sure shift nice and smooth.
I changed to a Forge FM207, and it did all I expected the vag to do and more, excellant response, smooth shifting, no diaphragms to fail.
It was a little spendy, about $220, but I wouldn't trade it for twice the amount.
If you guys can come up with something similar, something more integrated (solenoid housing like the stocker, somewhat more inexpensive $150 - $175) you can retire to the Bahamas. Regards.

 

I have no probs with mine but I was going to upgrade to the forge later this year for peace of mind. if you guys come up with one that is just as good I will get on it because I love your other parts.

 

 

Honestly, I got my Alta BOV spring and with in a week it now terribly sticks. Sometimes it won't blow off for 5 seconds... A little ridiculous.

 

I took it in to the dealer for inspection today, and as it turns out, the diverter valve was fine. The 2 error codes I got were 2B5B and 2B5C, which said the car was burning lean, and was actually resulted from one of the intake hose in the corner closest to the passenger seat coming loose. I have no idea how that happened from parking the car under the sun for an hour. Anyways, they just re-secured the hose and I am glad no further repairs are needed!

 

This is exactly the type of thing we are looking to hear more about. Chris will be in touch ASAP. Thanks for the post!

 

We've had a customer with a BPV that was sticky from blowby, if you haven't yet, try opening it back up and cleaning it out and let us know if that helps.

Ray,

We've had a customer that had the same issue with our spring installed, we had him try the stock spring and it did the same thing. He also checked the BOV and it didn't have any tears either. That's something we're trying to figure out right now. That's another reason for this thread!

 

Alright, I'll try that. And as easy as it would seem to open it, I swear that little BOV is a booger to get to lol.

 

But then again I don't know if that would fix my problem, see this isn't always a problem. It happens more than it doesn't happen. And I also think it happens more when it's warm outside or the car is warm idk... So I don't know if taking it off would stop an intermittent problem...

 

Hi,

I had problems that were very hard to diagnose and fix.

Read the thread here

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-problem.html

Bottom line is a I had a faulty diverter valve and a faulty temperature / pressure sensor.

Replacing the faulty diverter valve only partially fixed the problem. It was only completely fixed when I replaced the sensor as well.

I think it is too coincidental that the two parts apparrently failed at the same time. There must be some connection.

Car now has a forge valve and has been running perfectly on the track.

Robbo

 

Hi Robbo, I have read else where that this BOV is noisy, then others say its silent, do you think it is?

 

I find it pretty quiet. You can hear it, but it is pretty subtle, and not intrusive in my opinion. I don't find the sound that much different from oem to be honest

Robbo