Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain BSH catch can and dual boost port install

Old Mar 2, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #301  
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All can hoses are secure? I custom blocked the tb side pcv and i smelled that for a day or so , also you can check the can to see if it is full.

Originally Posted by 10Zero
I don't know if the smell I've been noticing lately is any different than the one some of you have posted earlier, but here's my deal....

Ever since installing my BSH OCC and boost port plug on my 2010 R56, my garage always seems to smell like burnt oil after parking it in the garage following a drive. I've checked everything physically possible looking for any sort of leak to any degree. Everything is spot on, no leaks anywhere...but still a smell of burnt oil in my garage. The smell dissipates, but park it in the garage after driving the car a bit (just regular driving even), close the door, and my garage stinks.

So is anyone else dealing with this sort of thing, or is it just my car and me? Like I said, zero leaks from anywhere around the connections, boost tap, OCC. I'm mystified why my car stinks like this now.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #302  
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Mine is the same way and it's installed correctly. If I parked in a garage I'm sure it'd smell very bad. I can smell it from outside the car when standing 5 feet away after it's been run.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #303  
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Kinda read through most of the thread and had a couple comments. Not sure how much the 2011 S will need this as teh pvc system is redesigned supposedly to fix the carbon build up. 2011 JCW is exactly the same as the 2010.


Originally Posted by fishbert
I thought it was generally accepted that the MCSs and JCWs use oil and should have their levels checked at every fill-up, topping up as needed.
There must be a new definition of generally. Very few people report having to add oil between changes. I've never had to in 70k+ miles of motoring between an S and a JCW. Of course it is still a darn good idea to check it each month or more often if you are worried.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 02:41 PM
  #304  
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Originally Posted by MotorMouth
Kinda read through most of the thread and had a couple comments. Not sure how much the 2011 S will need this as teh pvc system is redesigned supposedly to fix the carbon build up. 2011 JCW is exactly the same as the 2010.
Still looking to learn more about the new PCV scheme on the 2011 MCSs.

The basic function of the PCV system is to recycle crankcase fumes to the combustion chamber. And as long as those fumes find their way through the intake manifold, you're always going to have a carbon buildup concern on the backs of the intake valves on a direct-injection engine.

With the new redesign, I don't think anyone (on these forums at least) knows the path the crankcase fumes are taking. Big open question.

Originally Posted by MotorMouth
Originally Posted by fishbert
I thought it was generally accepted that the MCSs and JCWs use oil and should have their levels checked at every fill-up, topping up as needed.
There must be a new definition of generally. Very few people report having to add oil between changes. I've never had to in 70k+ miles of motoring between an S and a JCW. Of course it is still a darn good idea to check it each month or more often if you are worried.
Oh, no, not that one would expect to top up with oil that often... just that it's how often MINI suggests people check the level (probably because it's easy to make a habit of it at each fill up).
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 03:03 PM
  #305  
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I leased my last two MINIs so I wasn't that concerned about the carbon build up. However, my next one (which is currently status 152) I am going to buy.

I'll probably put an OCC on it even with the new pvc system as cheap insurance.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 03:12 PM
  #306  
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You should see if they could get an explanation for you of how the revised PCV system works (i.e., the path the crankcase fumes take to the combustion chamber).

I would expect for a proper answer they would have to sent the question out to an engineer, but I bet they'd do it if you made it clear you'd like to know before taking delivery.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 05:43 PM
  #307  
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Originally Posted by Bigprfed22
All can hoses are secure? I custom blocked the tb side pcv and i smelled that for a day or so , also you can check the can to see if it is full.
All hoses secure, and done with hose clamps. Can not full, been on for 2 weeks and it's not even registering on the dipstick yet.

Just a strange thing to me really. First time I smelled it, I started looking under my 99 4Runner to see there was an oil leak. I've had my car and been parking in my garage since Oct 09, and never smelled this until I put the OCC setup on.

I just might pull the threaded-in block off plug in the boost port, just to see if the smell deminishes. Not remove the boost port, just pull the plug. and see if it makes any difference...just a hunch. Because I can't see any sort of backup issue through the can...that's essentially just a rerouted line of the original setup.

Any remote chance the PCV is routing different somehow in the valve cover vs 07-09?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 05:55 PM
  #308  
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For me, the whole reason for getting the catch can was to have the plug inserted. This is what keeps the crap from heading towards the intake valves.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 06:00 PM
  #309  
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Originally Posted by ///Mflossin
For me, the whole reason for getting the catch can was to have the plug inserted. This is what keeps the crap from heading towards the intake valves.
for getting the boost tap, you mean.
the catch can will work on either line; it doesn't care, it's just a can.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 07:59 PM
  #310  
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Originally Posted by ///Mflossin
For me, the whole reason for getting the catch can was to have the plug inserted. This is what keeps the crap from heading towards the intake valves.
Oh I agree with you...it's why I wanted it too. But it was just a thought to take the plug out "temporary" to see how the smell reacts.

I'm grabbing at straws here really, trying to figure out why is stinks when it's hot. A leak somewhere would make perfect sense and explain it all. But there isn't one...anywhere. The OCC went on a few days before the dual port plug did, and I didn't start smelling this until the port plug was put on.

Unless it's the hoses itself that are smelling...I did buy the can second hand.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 05:39 AM
  #311  
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Originally Posted by 10Zero
Oh I agree with you...it's why I wanted it too. But it was just a thought to take the plug out "temporary" to see how the smell reacts.

I'm grabbing at straws here really, trying to figure out why is stinks when it's hot. A leak somewhere would make perfect sense and explain it all. But there isn't one...anywhere. The OCC went on a few days before the dual port plug did, and I didn't start smelling this until the port plug was put on.

Unless it's the hoses itself that are smelling...I did buy the can second hand.
Sure...I totally understand. My post was sort of vague in it's intent. I believe that it may relieve some of the smell but that will be at the price of ingestion and potential coking.

I actually think that I may have found what the issue is and it's actually nothing mechanical. I notice that this car's oil gets dark and stinky rather quickly(moreso than any other car I've owned). With that said, I am sure that winter only speeds up this process with richer fuel burn etc. This is the first time that I have let the car go 6 months with the same oil albeit only~3,000 miles on the oil. I am waiting for the weather to turn to get the car on the lift in the garage but I am not ready to pull out the M3. So, I think it's just that the oil is so stinky and that's why I am smelling it. I am going to bet that when I change the oil in a few weeks that the smell will subside. Well...that's my brain fart for today anyhow.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 06:58 AM
  #312  
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Also check the o ring on the catch can, if thats not tight you will leak fumes as well


Originally Posted by 10Zero
All hoses secure, and done with hose clamps. Can not full, been on for 2 weeks and it's not even registering on the dipstick yet.

Just a strange thing to me really. First time I smelled it, I started looking under my 99 4Runner to see there was an oil leak. I've had my car and been parking in my garage since Oct 09, and never smelled this until I put the OCC setup on.

I just might pull the threaded-in block off plug in the boost port, just to see if the smell deminishes. Not remove the boost port, just pull the plug. and see if it makes any difference...just a hunch. Because I can't see any sort of backup issue through the can...that's essentially just a rerouted line of the original setup.

Any remote chance the PCV is routing different somehow in the valve cover vs 07-09?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 06:09 AM
  #313  
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Posting a link to this BSH Speedshop pitch to Arizona '11 MCS owners from another thread, just to make sure it's getting socialized:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3226201

 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 09:12 PM
  #314  
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Does the dual boost tap cause a build-up in the passenger side pcv hose. Does it need to be removed from time to time to clean out that hose, or is that wasted work?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 08:50 PM
  #315  
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After reading 13 pages of posts regarding the BSH OCC, I am pretty much sold. The catch can seems real straight forward to install; do you just cut the provided hose in half if you are installing in the standard location?
Also regarding the dual boost tap. I do not plan on using it for a boost gauge, only to block that side of the intake. Do you just leave the "barb connector" (90 degree or straight) in the tap or is there a block off tap for this opening too? So basically it becomes a complete plug for the passenger side pcv hose?

+1 on germarican's question as well. Would be nice to know if there is any maintenance with this dual boost tap installed.

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by minimini482
Do you just leave the "barb connector" (90 degree or straight) in the tap or is there a block off tap for this opening too? So basically it becomes a complete plug for the passenger side pcv hose?
Ready to be plugged when you get it. The "taps" are loose, requiring you to take one or both plugs out on the sides in order to use them. Only thing you'll have to do is thread in and seat the larger "block off" plug and the two little ones which are included.
 

Last edited by 10Zero; Mar 10, 2011 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 09:06 PM
  #317  
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Originally Posted by 10Zero
Already plugged when you get it. The "taps" are loose, requiring you to take one or both plugs out on the sides in order to use them. Only thing you'll have to go is thread in and seat the larger "block off" plug.
Thanks for the reply.
And this large plug should be included as well, correct?
Do you locktite all the plugs?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:26 AM
  #318  
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The large plug should be included, I would not recommend Loctite.
Maybe a very lite coat of teflon pipe joint compound. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:34 AM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by Maugre
The large plug should be included, I would not recommend Loctite.
Maybe a very lite coat of teflon pipe joint compound. Good luck.
ok, i thought i read someone recommending loctite; perhaps I was mistaken.

will pipe joint compound from the hardware store be sufficient?

thanks.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:36 AM
  #320  
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Yes as long as you get the kind with teflon, and use sparingly.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:13 AM
  #321  
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Thanks for the tip on the joint compound, I am waiting for my tap and OCC to arrive and just assumed it would have locktite pre-applied to the block off. I really do not want to suck the plug into the intake!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #322  
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Maugre, have you had to do any maintenance on the dual boost tap? I am reading this thread (https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-device-2.html) currently and there are comments back and forth on if the dual boost tap would cause any harm since its blocking the pass side ventilation. I'd be nice to know ahead of time if the tap needs to be cleaned out at any point?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:35 AM
  #323  
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No, no maintenance at all. The plug will effectively eliminate any fluids going in that direction altogether. You then get full utilization for the catch can.
I did add a boost guage to the tap, it's more of a fun guage for most, but I like the ability to also read the vacuum side to see how the motor is working.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:35 AM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by minimini482
Maugre, have you had to do any maintenance on the dual boost tap? I am reading this thread (https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-device-2.html) currently and there are comments back and forth on if the dual boost tap would cause any harm since its blocking the pass side ventilation. I'd be nice to know ahead of time if the tap needs to be cleaned out at any point?
Cleaning isn't really the issue (the boost tap acts as a blockage; cleaning wouldn't make it block more or anything) ... it's weather or not the pressure increase in the crankcase would be enough to cause long-term reliability issues.

Personally, I'm not comfortable blocking that line, so I didn't. But a lot of people are, and I haven't seen anyone reporting leaking gaskets yet.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:38 AM
  #325  
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Originally Posted by Maugre
No, no maintenance at all. The plug will effectively eliminate any fluids going in that direction altogether. You then get full utilization for the catch can.
I did add a boost guage to the tap, it's more of a fun guage for most, but I like the ability to also read the vacuum side to see how the motor is working.
cool. thanks.
what boost gauge are you using? where did you mount it?
 
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