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Dont think so. I run a 215/45R17 since all my research showed that 225 will rub. I really wanted to do 225 but it’s cutting it every close.
Yeah I've done a ton of research too. I know very few people get away with it but don't know if it's worth the risk buying them then paying for return shipping.
I did some experimenting with tire sizes. I went to as large as 225/45 R18 on my JCW at stock height springs. It did not rub until I would have more than 3 people in my car. Then I lowered my car with the NM Alpha springs and had to switch to a 225/35 R18 tire which is actually a lower profile than the suggested 205/40 R18. I wanted to have tire overlap on the rim lip to protect it. So far very happy with the ride.
215/40/18 going on in 2 days.. After the Hurricane.. 18x8 ET48 66.6bore-75mm hub adaptor lets hope for a good fitment and correct hub rings/and ball seat nuts.. 8mm spacer on the front 12mm rear
Well, that it didn't work! 8mm spacer up front et48 offset, one wheel clears the front JCW Brakes, perfectly, the other 3 wheels on the front do not! off by A 1MM. I'll run a hub centric 10mm spacer (might have to shave down the hub a hair)
Looking at Konig Rennform 18 x 8 45et wheels with 205/40/18 tires for my '17 MCS. Anyone know if these would fit with offset as a direct bolt on? Will these affect performance?
Here is my try to fit BBS RG-R (rg718) 17x8 et35 with 225/45/17 tires.
Spoiler
It pops too much in my opinion. Don't know what to do with that(
Current ideas are:
1) use less wide tires, like 215-45 or 205-45
2) try negative camber
3) change wheels...
What do you think guys?
Last edited by hommeLibre; Jan 8, 2018 at 01:47 AM.
They are nice looking wheels, but that's a little too much poke IMO. You could try narrower tires, but I think it's the et35 that's causing it. et40 is about perfect IMO, but you wouldn't be able to run 225 width. These are just my opinions, and as you know, everybody's got one.
They are nice looking wheels, but that's a little too much poke IMO. You could try narrower tires, but I think it's the et35 that's causing it. et40 is about perfect IMO, but you wouldn't be able to run 225 width. These are just my opinions, and as you know, everybody's got one.
Not able to run 225 width is the biggest disappointment for me. Because I bought these wheels for that)
But I hope hankook rs3 215/45/17 tires will be ok too)
Ok. I'm here again with a new try.
Yesterday I tried my BBS RG-R (rg718) 17x8 et35 with 205/45/17 tires. And I can say that it looks better, but from some angles it still too pokes.
Photos are below.
Spoiler
Also I asked mechanics about camber change. They told me mini f56 on stock suspension has non-adjustable front camber and only rear camber can be changed to almost -2°.
So I will try to drive these wheels with 205/45/17 ps4 or 215/45/17 hankook rs3 tires. Check how it drives and perhaps will buy front camber plates to set front to 1.5° which will move top of a wheel inside an arch about 1cm.
TE37SAGA in RAYS BRONZE wrapped in Mich. Pilot Super Sports. F56 JCW #1 on a set
225/40R18. I like meats.
-@MRM5MAN
I found at your instagram that these are 18x8.5 Squared +42 Michelin PSS 225/40 ST-X coilovers . and +5MM spacer.
But it looks so clear. How have you fitted them? Did you change camber?
And can you share with us a photo from front side? I want to see how they pock.
Ok. I'm here again with a new try.
Yesterday I tried my BBS RG-R (rg718) 17x8 et35 with 205/45/17 tires. And I can say that it looks better, but from some angles it still too pokes.
Photos are below.
Spoiler
Also I asked mechanics about camber change. They told me mini f56 on stock suspension has non-adjustable front camber and only rear camber can be changed to almost -2°.
So I will try to drive these wheels with 205/45/17 ps4 or 215/45/17 hankook rs3 tires. Check how it drives and perhaps will buy front camber plates to set front to 1.5° which will move top of a wheel inside an arch about 1cm.
Ah man... nice wheel, but it looks like too much poke for me. The new tires look like they might rub a little less... at least at this ride height. But the rim face looks still 10+mm too far out.
Camber plates in front might be a solution. The rear... I haven't put my camber arms in yet, but I'm thinking it's going to mostly tuck the bottom in. The top edge of the wheel probably only gets 10-20% of the movement that the bottom gets, being much closer to the fulcrum... which is top of the strut.
Those Rays look great. Hard to judge how they poke / tuck without a pic looking down the side of the car.
