New member with a 2005 S Convertible. Love the car, hate the dealer repair and service prices. Trying to do a simple rear brake pad replacement and found the need for a special tool to turn the caliper in. Dealer parts desk did not even know you needed a tool. They did not think they sold one for owners. Did a google search with no results to date. Must be a go around...what is the best solution??? Thanks

 

you can get the tool from harbor freight tools, as seen here in the DIY article written by OcataneGuy https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/how-to/43438-maintenance-changing-rear-brake-pads-for-beginners.html

the tool is actually cheaper in stores if your lucky to have one near you.

 

Thanks article was great. Will get tool from Harbor Freight tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

Just keep in mind that sometimes the Harbor Freight tool doesn't work so well (for the rears) as I found out here. A simple C-clamp and wrench might work better.

 

Funny, I just bought this for my tool box.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=200479088177

Can't say if it works or not since it just arrived yesterday, but with a ratchet and some muscle, I think it will work fine. I always use a c-clamp before, but I had to give this a try.

 

most decent autoparts will have a similar tool and some of those will 'loan' tools via a refundable deposit.

Possibly MINI doesn't call this a special tool because it really isn't all that special - many makes of vehicles use the type of e-brake system that requires turning the piston while compressing. That's why the HF tool comes with a bunch of adapter plates - to fit different makes. The MINI uses the HF tool plain - no adapter is needed.

Main thing to remember with the HF tool is if it is fighting you - back off - don't force it. There is a difference in the pitch of the treads on the tool and the pitch of the piston. This can make the tool bind up. Back off - give the piston a turn with no pressure then continue. Works for me when I remember not to fight it.

 

As usual Capt_bj's advice is both sound and practical.

 

Thanks to all for good responses. Will let all know how I make out next week.

 

I have the tool from harbor freight with the different adapters and have used it for years.

Only car it didn't work on was my wife's '07 passat wagon. When you set the parking brake in that car there are 2 electric motors on each caliper that lock the rear brakes down. To do a brake job you have to use computer and acces the computer to tell it to release the pistons fully to replace the caliper. No compression tool needed but pain to access the computer. What's worse is the European version of the car has a menu in the computer you access with the steering wheel controls to do this. The US requires spending several hundred dollars on software and a special hookup. Stupid

 

The cube tool works the best, the fancy piston tool with the threaded rod is more of a waste of money than anything. It just complicates things. The cube is stocked at autozone and harbor freight, and cost about 6 bucks.

 

Not to disagree with you Rick. I know you know your way around a tool box. It has been my experience that the Harbor Frieght tool wooks well for me. I have the one HRM got off fleaBay in my tool box & always grab the Harbor Freight one.

Just one old farts opinion.

 

I've found the HF tool to work well on my MINIs over the years. For me the trick is not to tighten it too much, leave a little slack between the adjuster nut and the plate, then it works a treat.

 

Yeah, I don't doubt that it does the job. When I have used one, it usually just binds up. I do like that style of tool instead of a C-clamp for the front calipers, but I just made one of those out of an old backing plate and threaded rod instead of buying it.

That and it takes 5 minutes to set it up and get it ready. The cube pops on the end of your ratchet, no thinking required!

I think I got my cube out of one of those bulk bins full of them for $2 way back when.

 

It's not the thinking I have trouble with. I'm the first in my family to have opposable thumbs & I'm still getting used to them. Love the C clamp & use it on the fronts. On the rear those damn pistons have to turn. Darned German's.

 

I have the cube thingy. It works great. Just turn and push. No need for a clamp or threaded device.

 

was reading one needs special tool but what do do to get the calipar off to begin with. the pads worn in and calipar will not come off over ring ridge in rotor. so how do I turn piston in with calipar and pads on rotor???

 

I just shove a screw driver in 'tween the pad and the rotor and pry. The little you need to get the old pads past the lip on the rotor is less than you need b4 you must turn the piston to retract for new rear pads. . .

I've done a dozen plus sets this way . . .

(I think that's the answer to what I think I deciphered your question 2 B)

 

I just did my rear brakes the other day. Once you remove the bolts that hold the caliper on, make sure to push the rods in a little (the part with the rubber bellows over them). That should give you enough room to wiggle the caliper back and forth, and it should swing out of the way.

As for the special tool to push the caliper in, I just used a needle nose pliers straight on the piston, and pushed and turned at the same time. Worked pretty slick.

Tom

 

Definitely a PIA to get the rear caliper/pads off the rotor. Basically, just keep working it to get it over the ridge. Then, as Govtslug says, just use needlenose to turn/push (CW, IIRC) the piston into the caliper.

 

So far I've found that the Harbour Freight set works on both Gen I and Gen II cars -- I've used it on my 2009 and my daughter's 2005. It seems to be perpetually on sale -- I think I paid $14.00. Its crude but very effective.