Had a few requests for info ..

In Detroit they call this "Detroit slack or SLOP" sorry, but when you start actually measuring things you see how "off" all cars are>

Try to remount or even elongate the base mounting plate if you need more camber.
I loosten the 3 mount screws and pull in using the strut tower brace one side at a time ... usually good for a full degree. ...
B

 

Was nice reading all 21 pages of this thread lol.

Ive had a set of very used BCs on for a few months now, and I know for certain that I have accidentally added a crap ton of preload. Seems to drive fine, but I should probably get in there and take it out.

Is it possible to successfully take out the preload while they are still installed? (jacked up / wheel off)

Like I said theyre very used (probably 30K miles+) Springs are rusty (Straight front springs), and I have used a fair amount of penetrating oil keeping the pillowballs moving (otherwise it just rotates at the spring / top perch )

STILL better riding than brand new VMaxx's lol

 

Glad to see my post still alive .. Still selling the BCs for MINI and others.

YES you can adjust the preload on the vehicle .. as you said

Wheels off the ground and it can be done, you will not be able to measure the preload but just do the same on both sides.

If the top spring perch is rotating your are doing it wrong.

In a nutshell the preload is adjusted at the "double lock ring area".
Use the wrenches (I have some if you need them) and unlock the bottom lock ring from the lock ring that touches the bottom of the spring.
maybe turn it down 3 or 4 threads. then use the wrench to move the lock ring on the bottom of the spring DOWN to meet that. The lock together.

Not scientific .. but that is preload and you will back some out.
Ride height is when you screw the entire unit up or down in the lower mount. (preload stays consistent)

PM me and I can send some photos / tips . or I will post back her as they are on a different computer.

 

Cool thanks for the help.

I definately get how it all adjusts, But for some reason when I did the initial install I remember giving it at least an extra 1/2" of preload... woops.

And the rotating part was when I would turn the wheel. The pillowballs were gunked up and the rotation point was at the top perch/cap instead of the proper spot.

 

Does it need to loose the end-links or not? Also, shall it be both of the off the ground in order not to have the sway bar loaded?

 

probably couldnt hurt if you are that precise with it all

 

Found your post Cor Blmy!

 

Hi to all. I recently purchased these coilovers for my 2011 Cooper S. I have the standard 16" wheels (16x6.5) with 195/55 tires. I will probably drop the car somewhere between 0.5" and 1.0". Will I need any spacers?

Thank you!

 

I just installed these yesterday with help of a friend.

I forgot to measure stock ride-height (d'oh!)... Anyhow, we measured the stock parts, and set the BCs 2cm shorter. The rear is pretty low now (1 finger wheel gap) but the front is pretty much like stock (2 finger gap). I think the reason is the spring rates are different than stock. So just measuring the stock and adjusting the BCs relative to stock is not right. Anyway, I'm not concerned about this. I will drive around couple hundred miles for stuff to settle, and next week we'll re-adjust the height. After couple hundred more miles, I will get alignment and corner balancing done.

The only problem I have right now is that the car feels a little bumpy. That being said, I'm still making adjustments. 0 ticks (softest) is really comfortable and 30ticks (hardest) is very stiff. I'm glad the settings really do work and make difference. Right now I'm using 10ticks both front and rear and the ride is less bumpy.

Overall, I am very happy with this coilover kit.

I have 1 question:

The BC webpage says that I have to loosen lower strut bolts to adjust the camber (http://www.bcracing-na.com/HEIGHTADJUSTMENT.htm). Is this really required? Because to do that, I have to jack-up the car, and remove the front wheels. I was looking more of a quick adjustment for track/auto-x days.

 

Hmmmm, must be diffetent than the Gen 1 setup. Mine is done with just the top Allen bolts. That would be a PITA if true!

 

Well it is still adjusted via top Allen bolts. But first need to loosen lower strut bolts which means jacking up the car and taking off the wheels.

 

Yeah, I read that in the instructions you linked. That just doesnt make sense - I can't understand why since the hub needs to move. I know your only loosening but still...

 

Where is the best place to pick up a new set of these?

Nick

 

PM sent to you Nick ...

 

Well, I did it without loosening the lower bolts... So, jack-up the front, adjust with top allen bolts, done... No problems so far.

 

I started to notice a loud creaking sound that's coming from the front strut mounts whenever I turn the steering wheel. We're guessing that its from the pillow ball mounts. Has anyone tried lubricating them?

 

You can lubricate them but the noise will return in a few days, so don't waste your time. I had the same noise and replaced the pillow ball mounts and the problem was still there. The guys at BC sent me a set of Koyo Bearings and problem has been gone for over a year now. I would call BC and talk with them, I was way out of warranty and then still sent me several parts to fix the problem at no charge.

 

Koyo bearings for the pillow ball mounts?

 

not for the pillow ball mounts. it is a bearing that replaces the upper spring perch and allows the spring to rotate when you turn the wheel. They removed them from the coilovers because people wanted to lower there cars more then that setup would allow. My car pretty low even with the bearings so I don't think you will have an issue with that. I went through several parts from BC before this fixed the problem and it to a few months of trial and error before we came to this solution. It is a sort of wear out part so I would imagine it will need to be replaced some time down the road but for now everything works fine. This is my daily driver and I've driven it on the Dragon without any issues or complaints.

 

Thanks for the info. When you tried lubricating it, what exactly were you lubricating & did you.do it from the top (with the front suspension still installed) or did you take the suspension down?

Has anyone else had this problem?

 

Anyone running on full soft? How's the ride?

 

I'm running in full soft and it is still harder than the stock suspension.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Well, they ARE coilovers Will be dialing down my BCs to full soft & see how for myself

 

Hi all BC users,

I took out my BC coilovers today and I notice both left and right coilovers the top mount/adjustable camber plate/pillowball plate (not sure the exact name is) is very loose, I can spin it freely and can juggle it left and right, up and down without any force. All nuts already tighthen up, still the same.

Is this normal? Can anyone help to confirm

Thank you so much

 

That is actually a wear out item, I had to replace mine last year. I would contact BC and ask them, they were very helpfull and even sent me the parts for free even though I was way out of warranty.